All the late model toyota's love a fresh oxygen sensor. Have you tried running the motor with it unplugged? If it still runs exactly the same I'd try a new sensor.
Don't get me wrong... No doubts... But the BT Manuals indicate the checks on the IDL???? which I found quiet conflicting with what I have in the engine bay? It doesn't make sense.
I haven't measured fuel consumption accuretly yet, but I'm getting between 9-10L/100Km. IE: Getting about 350-370Kms to the tank in the MR2, and fuel up about 35-37Ltrs. My old 16 4age was worse... which I only got about 250-290Kms to the same fuel.
MIKE.
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Current ride: AW111 - http://aw111.blogspot.com
All the late model toyota's love a fresh oxygen sensor. Have you tried running the motor with it unplugged? If it still runs exactly the same I'd try a new sensor.
I'm getting 7.6L/100km - 8.1L/100km =)
Can you describe the vibration? any sound? Cause the rough patch from idle to 2K rpm could be something I've seen in a few mates cars...
Not here anymore!
Hey DreadAngel...
7.6/8.1L/100Km... those are good figures? Those are the figures you should be looking at, as the lower the figure, the better... Mind you, too low, is no good either, as then your engine is running lean... But those figures are running within range.
Basically, the vibration start slightly at about 1100RPMs, get worse by the time you hit about 1600RPMs, and then go away once you reach the 2000RPMs. If you would fill up a cup of water to about 2-3mm from the brim, you will definitly spill water... but not excessively. The vibration is like 3x to 4x more than at any other rev range.
Sound is pretty much similar but with a thump-thump through the exhaust as it's the unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust system.
The 20v Engines are very much an under-estimated engine, as most come badly out of tune... hence, the reputation of "Get the 4agze which is better... " These engine are so highly strung, that just about anything can put them out of tune. None-the-less, their ECU setup is pretty simplistic, but their mechanicals require a bit more thinking and occasional tune up.
I'm lucky, as I have a very knowledgable mechanic who can advise me in the right direction. He put a sniffer at the end of my exhaust pipe, and you can clearly see where it was running rich... even top end was running rich, but not as bad as the 1600RPMs range.
Anyway... I will be updating my blog soon with how to fine tune these engines....
MIKE
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Current ride: AW111 - http://aw111.blogspot.com
7.6L - 8.1L per 100km seems to be the normal with the AE111s lol... I'm hoping to get it down to <7.5L but I doubt I can do anymore especially with my engine in its current state...
My car was currently running pretty rich since I bought it though, with just the basic I/H/E (Tom's Super Ram, HKS Super NA Headers, FG Power Getter) it seems to be returning better mileage and I can tell its not running "as" rich as before, my baby's bottom is a little cleaner hahaha...
4A-GE BT (ST to an extent) have been grossly underestimated or overblown image. Its sad really, people look to much into the "factory" specs which are false to begin with. Toyota achieved those figures by checking lunar calender, making sure the tide was just right...
The unreliable stigma like you was from overly ambitious builders/tuners without knowing the limits stressing out the highly strung engineIt gets annoying when people ask me, "What car is that? AE111? What engine does it have? Blacktop 20V? thrown a rod and punched a hole in your block yet? 4A-GZE man..." Bahhhh... If I wanted turbo, I'd bought a completely different car in the first place lol
Last edited by DreadAngel; 24-05-2009 at 02:43 PM.
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