I also want to know what cr you'll be running, and what pistons / rods if you don't mind letting us all know
"Should" being the word. Its easier said than done over 250 rwkw.
I ran a .83 the boost response was fairly linear. It was more of a smooth gradual pull in the car than the usual full hit as it comes on boost.
I have switched the .63 from the .82 also. It hasnt been driven since though so i have no idea how much better the response is. My last dyno was with the .82 so once it goes back on the rollers ill check it at the same boost level to see if there is any gains there.
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
I also want to know what cr you'll be running, and what pistons / rods if you don't mind letting us all know
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=83259
'88 A.D.M aw11 '98 4age 20v blacktop
NA: 14.745@150kmh at willowbank. On E85 with 6psi boost: 13.573@165kmh. ~8psi: 13.187 @169.9kmh. >10psi: 12.9 rod fragments @ 174mm holes in block
daily: '93 ae101 Levin coupe. Motorbike: '09 Suzuki GSR600: 12.358@179kmh at Willowbank
Pistons and rods are decentpauter rods.
Im unsure on the rest of the bits
Check his rides thread.
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
Found this MR2 in NZ with a 3071 (3076 core) making 306kw .48 a/r
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ofaxw6UWxs
its a large turbo that i recon would work on a Ge eng ,,
.
Last edited by Cameron_Datto; 10-04-2009 at 06:37 PM.
I never ran that on the 1600 motor, had various versions of T28's on that, but they were on there limit at that.Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner
I run the GT3076R with the .63 housing and it's laggy enough,
after 5000 till we get full boost, starts around 4000, makes about 8psi at 4500,
and that's on the 1800cc motor.
Makes a good 440hp atw on 20 psi, and the turbo just seems to be coming into it's 'good' range about there,
so I dunno how'd it o a a 1600, especially with the big housing on the rear.
- KE70 Corolla Dx -
- 500hp+ 7AGTE 20V turbo -
- MRS/Hayabusa turbo **sold**
- TA63 3TGTE project in the build -
30/76 with a .63 housing ftw, mines got a .48 and it struggles to make 306kw as the little ex housing is making it choke. Kinda depends how hard you wanna rev it and how seroius you go with the head. more than 300kw is possible and not that hard with a bigger turbo and good fuel but starts to get pretty laggy.
Current ride: Sweeeeeeet Hiace, 3L power!!
Project: AW11 4agte, 410kw 555hp on 26psi, 11.1 @125mph, more to come
Huge thanks to Phil from NZEFI, Al and Brendan from Caraid and Hamish from Sheifield Cresent Auto
Is that 306kw at the flywheel though?Originally Posted by 4agtepwr
I'd imagine you'd have to be pushing closer to 30psi to pass 300rwkw from 1.6L - guess it depends on the rpm aswell.
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=83259
'88 A.D.M aw11 '98 4age 20v blacktop
NA: 14.745@150kmh at willowbank. On E85 with 6psi boost: 13.573@165kmh. ~8psi: 13.187 @169.9kmh. >10psi: 12.9 rod fragments @ 174mm holes in block
daily: '93 ae101 Levin coupe. Motorbike: '09 Suzuki GSR600: 12.358@179kmh at Willowbank
At the wheels and 23 psi, Its all about being able to make and hold peak torque at high rpm with a little motor. We rev mine to 9000 at the drags and makes peak torque at around 8300. The heads about as modified as you can go with a 4age with out going to oversize buckets and the cams are over 300 deg duration and over 10 mm lift. The trade of with very big cams is it makes an engine dull off boost as it bleeds of comp with all the overlap. Then a big turbo makes it worse again.
Current ride: Sweeeeeeet Hiace, 3L power!!
Project: AW11 4agte, 410kw 555hp on 26psi, 11.1 @125mph, more to come
Huge thanks to Phil from NZEFI, Al and Brendan from Caraid and Hamish from Sheifield Cresent Auto
at flywheel it should be around 340-360kw at 23psi, if it is maintaining VE at 8300
the 306 might be a little lower on aussie dyno (?) but it is still up there![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Well 123mph trap speed says to me that its def making the power and it will go faster on that tune with a few more issues sorted. Why would it read lower. Its was tuned on a fairly new dynopac hub dyno with correct corrections and no dodgy air temp alterations or TCF factors. Dynos and workshops can bulshit but mph doesnt. With a 3582 and c16 it would make 500whp no worries, the only problem with that is my lack of $$$ and motivation to do that.
Current ride: Sweeeeeeet Hiace, 3L power!!
Project: AW11 4agte, 410kw 555hp on 26psi, 11.1 @125mph, more to come
Huge thanks to Phil from NZEFI, Al and Brendan from Caraid and Hamish from Sheifield Cresent Auto
nah, dyno-dynamics dynos in oz (with the shootout mode etc) tend to read a bit lower than US or hub dynos... due to the way they ramp up, etc....
my point was just that with a good build, the flywheel should be well above 306kw![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
I am told dyno dynamics read lower too......... but what do you do? A dyno is only really to compare your own engine against its self and tune to see if you can make gains in hp or torque. from one run to another.
Unless two different engines are run back to back on the same day it hard to pit one against the other.
But we all still do![]()
To make that sort of power at that boost really does make me think im missing something somewhere though.
Hmmmmmmm LOL
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
as a rough guide
kw = (engine size x 100 x (1+ boost) x rpm) / 9402
where engine size is in litres, boost is in Bar or atm)
4A should be between 150Nm to 160Nm depending on how much you have improved or retained efficiency... harder at high boost
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
You really need to pull ever trick in the Book to get a result you'ld be happy with.
I remember a former street king turned full time drag race setup saying he envied his old street setup and wished he never changed it. Big numbers are just that, big numbers.
It doesn't mean it will be faster around a circuit then your old setup. I think if you just aim on getting more power almost everywhere, then you will be satisfied with the result. 300Kw's in a FWD will spin the wheels in any gear at any speed you want and the resulting Engine reliability and cost of such a setup is not sensible by any stretch of imagination.
If I were you, I would get the reverse designed Mitsubishi Evo Twin-Entry Turbine Turbo which is available with a Titanium turbine wheel (500rpm quicker spool), and upgrade the intake side to a 20G Compressor cover and comp wheel. Easy 240Kw atw and unrivalled response considering the standard TD05H Turbine wheel weighs considerably less than the GT30 turbine wheel.
Add to that the shortest and smallest internal volume exhaust manifold you can make and then see if you still need bigger cams.
![]()
Rep points are for those who feel inadequate in other areas !
I figure if you're not just a dyno queen and have the dollars, go twincharged. More response, less peak hp but definitely a more driveable torque curve.
The above opinion is just that - my opinion. It is not shared by any business that I am currently or have previously been involved with, nor any of their employee's.
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