HELP: 1GGTE running slow, Error code 11.. what is it? *FIXED*

[Jabtronic]

My 1G Soarer just started acting up tonight, it's idling ok (maybe 100rpm higher than usual), but it's extremely low on power and backfiring a lot. My boost gauge isn't indicating any boost leaks because it's still boosting fine up to 1bar. There's just no torque though and the engine is running slightly louder than usual, I could barely make it up my driveway

I checked the error codes and it brought up code 11 but I can't find 1GGTE error codes anywhere, can somebody link me please?

Gotta rush off to work now so I won't be able to take a better look at it until tomorrow. I'm thinking it's either the dizzy, sparkplugs/leads or AFM? I cleaned the ISCV 2 months ago.

Before it started playing up, it stalled on me once or twice during the week. And also the idle always fluctuates/misses a bit (however it isn't now.. it's idling maybe 100rpm higher than usual and is constant)

Any help would be appreciated cheers.

EDIT: I found that my distributor was loose! So the timing would have been way out...I've put it back to +10DTDC and it still runs slow Need more ideas

FINAL EDIT: It's been fixed! An autoelectrician found a short in the AFM wiring, which was overheating the ECU.

[Jabtronic]

Ok now the car isn't starting, it starts slowly after cranking for 5 or more seconds and then comes to life but stalls shortly after. I can smell excess fuel so fuel pump doesn't seem to be the problem.

EDIT: Got it started, it started and was chugging along poorly (like it was on 5cyl) with a clicking noise coming from around the ISCV area (but not the ISCV.. maybe a spark plug lead??) and when I gave it a touch of revs it went back to a normal-ish idle.

[Brad-KE35]

Could it be the alternator? Maybe its on the way out and isn't powering the ECU properly, which would mean low voltage and possibly causing it too backfire and miss weirdly.

Just my 2c.

Brad

[Rcubed]

Code System Diagnosis Trouble Area
1 Normal There are no problems. None.
2 Pressure sensor signal Open or short circuit in pressure sensor. Pressure sensor circuit.
Pressure sensor.
ECU.

3 Ignition signal. No signal from ignitor four times in succession. Ignition circuit (IGf ECU connection).
Igniter.
ECU.

4 Water thermo sensor signal Open or short circuit in coolant temperature sensor signal. Coolant temperature sensor circuit.
Coolant temperature sensor.
ECU.

5 There is no code 5 (this sounds like the Monty Python "Bruces" sketch!).
6 RPM signal. No Ne, G signal (engine revolution sensor) signal to ECU within several seconds after engine is cranked. No Ne, G signal (engine revolution sensor) signal to ECU within several seconds after engine reaches 1,000rpm. Distributor circuit.
Distributor.
Starter signal circuit.
ECU.

7 Throttle position sensor signal. Open or short circuit in throttle position sensor signal circuit. Throttle position sensor circuit.
Throttle position sensor.
ECU.

8 Intake air thermo sensor signal Open or short circuit in intake air temperature sensor signal. Air thermo sensor circuit.
Air thermo sensor.
ECU.

9 Vehicle speed sensor signal Speed sensor indicates 0 km/h for several seconds when engine rpm is above 2,300 or 2,800 and manifold pressure is higher than specified. Vehicle speed sensor circuit.
Vehicle speed sensor.
ECU.

10 Starter signal. No STA signal to ECU when engine is running over 800rpm. Main relay circuit.
IG switch circuit (starter).
IG switch.
ECU.
The vehicle has been push-started.

11 Switch signal. Air conditioning switch on or IDL points in the throttle position sensor off. Not registered in memory. Air conditioning switch circuit.
Air conditioning switch.
Throttle position sensor.
ECU.

12 RPM Signal No G or NE signal present for 2 seconds during cranking
Open G circuit
Open, short in G or NE circuit.
Distributor
ECU

13 RPM signal No NE signal for 50msec at 1000rpm.
Same as Above

14 Ignition No IGF signal to ECU for 4 consecutive IGT signal during engine running
Open/short in IGF/IGT signal from igniter to ECU
Igniter malfunction
ECU

21 O2 sensor Open/short in heater circuit of oxygen sensor for 0.5 seconds
Amplitude of O2 sensor reduced to 0.35-0.70V continuously for more than 60 seconds
O2 sensor
vacuum sensor
ECU


22 H2O temperature sensor no signal at THW
water temperature sensor
ECU

24 Intake Air Temp sensor no signal at THA
Intake air temp sensor
ECU

25 A/F Lean O2 sensor output in less than 0.45 volts for at least 90 seconds when O2 sensor is warmed and 1500 rpm or above.
open injector circuit
lack of fuel pressure
Ignition system
Vacuum sensor
O2 sensor
ECU

31 Vacuum sensor No signal at Vacuum sensor (PIM)
Vacuum sensor to ECU

33 ISCV (Idle speed control valve) Open or short in ISCV circuit
ISCV Valve

41 Throttle Position sensor No signal for 0.5 seconds or more at ignition ON. (VTA)
TPS
ECU

42 Vehicle Speed Sensor No speed sensor signal to ECU when loaded driving condition with engine speeds 2000 to 5000 rpm. for 8 seconds or more.
VSS
ECU

43 Starter No starter signal to ECU when cranking in TEST mode. Terminal STA on ECU
starter signal circuit
starter relay
ignition switch

52 #1 Knock sensor no KNK1 signal to ECU
knock sensor (looseness)
malfunctioning knk sensor

53 #2 Knock sensor no KNK2 signal to ECU
same as above

51 Switch condition signal Displayed when A/C is on when TE1 and E1 connected in test mode
A/C switch
Accelerator pedal, cable
ECU

[Jabtronic]

Could it be the alternator? Maybe its on the way out and isn't powering the ECU properly, which would mean low voltage and possibly causing it too backfire and miss weirdly.

Just my 2c.

Brad

That's a good point, my 1JZ had similar symptoms when the alternator died, will check it out tomorrow.

And thanks ta23-mbzq-nnr for the codes. Looks like it could be an error 2, stuffed AFM?

+rep

[Z2TT]

Check your ignition coil too.

[Jabtronic]

Well I rounded up a few spare parts over the weekend to test out.. finally got around to having a look at the engine today and think I've found the problem already, I can rotate the distributor easily by hand, so the timing is probably way out and has been playing up because it can probably move by itself, the bolt must've come loose.

I've never adjusted the timing before so I'll have to go and buy a timing light and fix it up and see how it goes.

[Jabtronic]

Lined the timing up to roughly +10 degrees, bit hard to be exact though because the white mark is about a cm long?

Only checked the AFM and spark plug leads so far with some spares I borrowed. And it's still running like shit, it idles fine (*usually... won't start sometimes though unless I leave it?, and once or twice have started it up and it ran like it was on 5 cyclinders) it basically has lost power all throughout.. I'm hoping that the timing being out didn't fuck the engine. I'll be replacing spark plugs tomorrow and will check compression also.

Should I replace the fuel filter? Anybody reckon the injectors could be leaking or something?

[VasH]

Lined the timing up to roughly +10 degrees, bit hard to be exact though because the white mark is about a cm long?

Only checked the AFM and spark plug leads so far with some spares I borrowed. And it's still running like shit, it idles fine (*usually... won't start sometimes though unless I leave it?, and once or twice have started it up and it ran like it was on 5 cyclinders) it basically has lost power all throughout.. I'm hoping that the timing being out didn't fuck the engine. I'll be replacing spark plugs tomorrow and will check compression also.

Should I replace the fuel filter? Anybody reckon the injectors could be leaking or something?

weird, you do say a while back it overheated not loosing any coolant at all? you check all the plugs make sure none of them where fouled? check your knock sensor under the plenum are plugged in. Fuel filter is a bitch to get too its above the diff.

Have you tried taking it off the battery for a while too reset the ecu and see if it comes up the same error code?

Check under your dizzy cap aswell.

Sounds like its gonna be a process of elimination with this one.

[Jabtronic]

Yeah it was overheating that day I drove up to Brisbane only on the highway, it's never done that before (or since) and around town has always been fine. There were no signs of BHG either but I havn't looked at the coolant since. (Dipstick oil looks fine) Will check it tomorrow arvo too.

The timing could have been out for god knows how long, I noticed sometimes it was a bit wierd starting the car.. so I guess there's a good chance engine is stuffed due to detonation or something?

I've reset the ECU, no difference except it idles higher obviously until it's sorted itself out again.

Annd I cleaned out the plugs today, forgot to mention that sorry.. the 4th plug was covered in oil , well I guess that's definitely telling me something (my cam cover seals are leaking a little, but on this plug the tip was covered in oil), the others looked a little dry with only slight whiteness on the tips?

Will have to see the results of the compression test before trying anything else I suppose.

[VasH]

Yeah it was overheating that day I drove up to Brisbane only on the highway, it's never done that before (or since) and around town has always been fine. There were no signs of BHG either but I havn't looked at the coolant since. (Dipstick oil looks fine) Will check it tomorrow arvo too.

The timing could have been out for god knows how long, I noticed sometimes it was a bit wierd starting the car.. so I guess there's a good chance engine is stuffed due to detonation or something?

I've reset the ECU, no difference except it idles higher obviously until it's sorted itself out again.

Annd I cleaned out the plugs today, forgot to mention that sorry.. the 4th plug was covered in oil , well I guess that's definitely telling me something (my cam cover seals are leaking a little, but on this plug the tip was covered in oil), the others looked a little dry with only slight whiteness on the tips?

Will have to see the results of the compression test before trying anything else I suppose.

that could be your problem might be stem seals leaking on #4 and killing spark. Give the plug a good clean and earth it on your motor somewhere and check if its sparking still.

[Jabtronic]

Ok well I checked the compression, pretty much 140psi across all cylinders.

I went to change the spark plugs but SuperCrap didn't have any BCPR6EP-N-8 (or any BCPR6 plugs), so I got BPR6ES ones thinking they'd fit fine but they don't because the plug galleries on the 1G are too small for the bigger socket thing to fit down.

Sigh, so I'll try a few other places tomorrow for the proper plugs.

Also when I pulled spark plug 4 out again, there was no oil on it so I guess that was oil that had leaked from the cam cover seals.

[Jt_70R]

Could also perhaps be stuffed ecu a-la 1JZ style? no idea if the 1Gs suffer the same prob, but a quick swap could be worth a check.

[Jabtronic]

Yeah I was thinking that also. Hopefully the ignition timing was just wrong and fouled the plugs or something, we'll see tomorrow.

[Jabtronic]

Quick update.
Tried new plugs on Friday (hadn't started the car since Wednesday)... it started up fine, idled up to running temp fine, so I took it for a drive around the block... was still down on power. I pulled up after 2 min of driving, (was speaking to someone) and the car started stalling and then died and wouldnt start.

I reset the ECU and tried again and it started up eventually. Then I tried to drive back home and the revs started going up and down and the engine would stall unless I kept the revs up. It was struggling real bad under load and backfiring, it ended up coming to a stall again (down the road from my house) and wouldn't start so I had to tow it back to my driveway.

It's gotta be an electrical problem? Doesn't seem to be fuel blockage because it was revving up and down.

Sigh.. looks like I'm going to have to inspect/replace the ECU