o rings wrong size and now leaking air? something not replaced properly? kinked fuel return hose?
knocked some other plug off?
accidentally dropped gunk in the top of the injectors?
Heyas,
After changing the injector o-rings on my 4age, the car is now running very rough. The car now has a very lumpy idle and on acceleration there is a very noticable lack of power, especially up hills. Also in the past the ae82 had a cold start rpm of over 2k for a few minutes, however not it barely goes over 1.2k-1.3k on startup. Im also pulling a diagnostic code 5 - my manual doesnt mention a code 5?? However that may have been there before i changed the injector o-rings.
Any help or ideas would be great.
Cheers,
Dave
o rings wrong size and now leaking air? something not replaced properly? kinked fuel return hose?
knocked some other plug off?
accidentally dropped gunk in the top of the injectors?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Disconnect to find out which one or ones don't make any change/difference & aren't working, injectors, also the plug wires.Originally Posted by DTrain
What's the compression?
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
you didnt plug the injector plugs in the wrong order are all cylinders firing?
The diagnostics manual doesn't mention a code 5 (I assume you mean 5 flashes of the CEL, then a pause and repeat, right?). Double-check exactly what the CEL is spitting out (with the diagnostics terminals bridged, of course).
AE102 - Charlene the Old Faithful, Reborn
JZZ30 - Lexi the Spacecruiser, 1JZGTE>>3SGE. 200rwkw, hunting Skylines and n00bs in SS Commodores
ST162 - Charlie the non-ghey Celica, 3SGE>>4AGE. GOOOOOOOONE
AE82 - Rosie the Bitsa from Hell, 70.8kw atw. Has been converted into garage space and money at last
KE55 - Billie the Beast, sadly missed
ok thanks for the ideas guys, ive had a bit of progress today.
took out the injectors and rail and reinstalled the injectors (o-rings i got from toyota so are the right ones). in the manual they mention insulators that go into the head? i cant see these but i assume they are in the head already?
tested all the injectors resistances and they come in at around 3.2ohms - manual says 2.3ohms approx, so i think they are fine. and the cold start injector is 4.2ohms - manual says between 2-4ohms.
installed everything again and started her up. the injectors were put in as far as they could (the grommet was touching the rail) but once the pressure was there they all came out about 5mm - i assume this is kinda normal (still in the rail but not butted up against the grommet). gave them a little turn each way like the manual says and theres no apparent leaks so i assume everything is good on that side. so i started to search elsewhere.
checked the air filter (fine) and the pipe (no leaks). took out the spark plugs, they were very black, gave them a quick clean - nothing outragious but better than they were. ill get a new set on the way to work today. put everything back on and it seems to pull slightly better but theres still a noticable power loss and kinda sounds like a wrx, the burble that its putting out on acceleration.
rechecked the error code and now its putting out a 58?? that doesnt show up in the manual either. but theres a bigger pause after the 8 than between the 5&8. could it be a code5 and a code8?
the insulators are the doughnut looking things on the outside on the head end of the injectors.
LOOK and see if they are there.
the injectors coming out 5mm indicates that they are NOT there, and that you are getting air leaks cos the injectors are not sealing at the head..
see middle injector here http://www.snjschmidt.com/pics/motor/injectors.jpg
once you get those insulators on, it should be fine
edit: read this
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/injecto...ht-part-96664/
thats your missing 5mmIts got two on the top of the injector, the small o-ring that actually seals the high pressure fuel and then the upper grommet (on the right in the pic above). Then there is the lower grommet (on the left in the pic above) the seals the injector to the intake manifold to prevent a vaccume leak
edit: these are (supposedly) 4AGE injectors.
top one has no insulator, bottom one has (crusty) insulator
Originally Posted by DTrain
Last edited by oldcorollas; 21-01-2009 at 05:05 PM.
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
OC im giving you +rep just because that was good,.!
The GOD HAND AW11 - sold
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...ight=kyle+AW11
AIDS infestation - HCR32 Skyline - the jesus foot?
ahhh your a legend!! got some insulators today from toyota and sorted it out and she's running heaps better than it did. its still a bit sluggish at takeoff and theres still a bit of a wrx rumble but ill double check the timing in the morning.
its still putting out error code 5 & 8 or 58? so a bit more investigating and ill have her purring like a kitten.
thanks again oldcorollas!!
hmm false alarm seems the car is still running like crap, really bad acceleration and noticable lack of power, and a very lumpy idle and rumble.
looks like back to the drawing board for me.
did you check the timing with the T and E (???) pins shorted (check actual pins), or just tested without shorting?
are any of the cylinders totally missing? or is it intermittent miss for all cylinders?
http://72.14.235.132/search?q=cache:...lnk&cd=1&gl=au
O2 sensor?
and check out this awesome post!!!
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpo...11&postcount=3
and also
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Something like an O2 sensor problem would go away with full-throttle, right? Since the ECU operates on open-loop for WOT, thus negating the O2 sensor (and any associated problems).
AE102 - Charlene the Old Faithful, Reborn
JZZ30 - Lexi the Spacecruiser, 1JZGTE>>3SGE. 200rwkw, hunting Skylines and n00bs in SS Commodores
ST162 - Charlie the non-ghey Celica, 3SGE>>4AGE. GOOOOOOOONE
AE82 - Rosie the Bitsa from Hell, 70.8kw atw. Has been converted into garage space and money at last
KE55 - Billie the Beast, sadly missed
yes it would, and may nto be in operation at idle either... still seems like either air leak, or blocked fuel or similar? or really bad timing.. or.. something totally different
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
well i fired her up and went about setting the timing. bridged the two pins and set it to 0deg - adjusted idle screw to sit it at 750rpm then took the connecting wire off and it went up to 10deg - idle at 950rpm. switched everything off, tightened up the bolts. cap and rotor button look like its about time for replacement.
put the cap and plugs back on and now it wont start?? im thinking it could be the timing this whole time
can you take pic of cap and rotor?
what are your plugs like?
ever changed plug leads?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
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