Alarm installed now , neet to resolve some issues (shadow)

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Stupid question, but are you 100% sure you have the correct wires?

[blakeg]

yes. i was thinking that i might have mixed the 6 for the 9 but that would only have affected imob 2

[Toobs]

The internal immobiliser points on the shadow only click over when the ignition wire is powered... that one tricked me once too.

[blakeg]

ok, problem figured out , but not resolved. the issue is the ignition wire voltage drops too low when the car is cranked and trips out the internal relays. ATM when you crank it, the engine is cranking over but it wont start, if you time it right the second you let off the starter it will kick into life, which is a bit of a pain and sometimes takes a few goes,
i searched to find an ACC wire that does not drop, and was unsuscsessful, i also tried putting in a relay and that failed as well as it clicked out.

any ideas ?

[JustCallMeOrlando]

ok, problem figured out , but not resolved. the issue is the ignition wire voltage drops too low when the car is cranked and trips out the internal relays. ATM when you crank it, the engine is cranking over but it wont start, if you time it right the second you let off the starter it will kick into life, which is a bit of a pain and sometimes takes a few goes,

Hmm, I wonder if that's what's causing the starting issues in my old car.... Sometimes it just didn't want to start, and just when you'd given up hope, get off the starter it would fire.

[blakeg]

yeh its really pissing me off.

i am going to try with a small relay to kick over a bigger one to power the unit and see if that does the trick, ( cause i have tried every circut i can think of and they all drop to 0 on crank

its a stooopid design on shadows point. , i am quite unimpressed.

[Dale]

There should be an ignition wire (at the barrell) that doesn't drop when cranking, there is normally a few ignition on wires but only one that doesn't drop... check again? They probably all drop a little due to the current draw of the starter, but one of them doesn't drop much at compared to the others

[Mos]

There should be six wires on the back of the ignition switch that don't "drop" when cranking - Battery power is supplied through AM1 and AM2. IG1 and IG2 should have power, as should ST1 and ST2. The only wire that turns off during cranking is ACC.

You could try adding a starter relay to remove the started solenoid current from the barrel (as ST185s start badly to start with ) but I'm not sure it will fix your problem....

I can't remember if the starter runs off ST1 or ST2 on the ST185 but you could try supplying the immobiliser off the other circuit.

Mos.

[DoctorDubb]

i am going to try with a small relay to kick over a bigger one to power the unit and see if that does the trick, ( cause i have tried every circuit i can think of and they all drop to 0 on crank

I had a similar problem when wiring up the ra28 - the problem turned out to be a 'faulty' key barrel - the contacts had worn and when you turned the key too far (screwdriver) to start, it would crank but the contact for acc/ign would drop out and would lose all your acc/ign power. When i turned the key just enough to engage the starter i didnt have any problems, maybe your experiencing a very similar thing as you should definately have a wire that has 12v when cranking. Might be worth checking out.

[sprinter86]

i think voltage drop is something that will always be there when cranking,
but something is very wrong if it drops low enough to fail to engage a relay.

i mean, if it cant run the relays you have installed, what about all the factory relays? fuel pump, ignition, etc? do these drop out also when cranking?

just thinking outloud here...

[blakeg]

resolved.



anyone know where i could cut into a the circut slupplying the starter to immobilise it ? but it must be under 30 A
?
i dont have a wiring diagram .