This may sound very noobish, but how do you remove the manifold fastening studs from the inlet side of the head? They will have to be replaced as the threaded section is too short.
Originally Posted by Kedderz
Put it this way, I have less capacity, less cylinders, less torque and my TVIS is long gone and I have no need or want for it at all.
A little more torque down low a little more restriction up top, just get rid of it and move on, guarantee you'll be fkn happy as a homo at mardi gras with or without it.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
This may sound very noobish, but how do you remove the manifold fastening studs from the inlet side of the head? They will have to be replaced as the threaded section is too short.
RA23 - Twincharged
JZZ20 - Daily
A few methods:Originally Posted by Kedderz
Best method - lock two nuts together on the stud and then use a spanner on the inner nut to unscrew the stud.
Worst method - Use pliers if they are not tight and you are replacing them.
Costly method - If super stubborn use a stud remover.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
Yo can use a stud remover socket or just screw two nuts onto the stud one on top of the other, then undo the nt closest to the head. This will pull that nut up hard against the other nut and turn the stud.
Damn beat me to it. I will be the first one to use the term double nutting here though so that's something
Originally Posted by Joshstix
It's appropriate that a search for "two nuts one stud" comes up with a thread by Kedderz.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
Ive seen my dad do the two nut thing, ill give it a go, thanks guys.
below me tom is sure to post something humorous no doubt involving chubbs....
RA23 - Twincharged
JZZ20 - Daily
Google two nuts one stud and it comes up with a pick of you teabagging Tom.
Another thing to think about, as you are spinning the tyres through the first few gears do you think you'll be thinking "gee I wish I had some more torque at 2000rpm"??? Probably not.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
RE small torque loss, you're right. I probably wont notice it because who builds something like I am to drive around off boost.
I do have to say I am a bit perplexed as to why the system was included in a boosted motor from factory. On a NA motor I can definitely see the benefits but a turbo charged engine goes from needing small air volume to a much larger volume relatively quickly thus sort of negating the need for the system as there is such a small rpm range in which it should actually close the secondary runners.
Maybe it was used to reduce turbo lag?
RA23 - Twincharged
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Chubbs teabagged your dad?
fuck, I leave the thread for 5 minutes..
sidenote:
weren't the stock turbos on the 1ggte small, and are they set up sequentially?
Didn't think they'd need to worry about turbo lag..?
1ggte turbos are parallel ie exhaust gases are spinning both turbos at the same time.
As tiny as they are, they still have a bit of lag.
RA23 - Twincharged
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pfft 1ggze. only thing they are good for is allowing a stonking great turbo to be used higher in the rpm range.
RA23 - Twincharged
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Turbo cars need a bit of lag, its character.
Obviously a circuit cars another story but for a registered street car I like a little bit of lag, thats the toibo experience!
I'd rip it out and let your peak power do the talking.
tom does make a good point with the stock turbos though, i mean going from a shit flowing exaust manni where both exhaust routes are competing to escape, to a good flowing single mannifold. this will on its own eliminate a lot of load from the motor
lot to mention ditching power steer and A/C pumps, i stick with my decision to ditch the bastard
let us know how the iscv goes though!
Ok, im dumping the bitch.
DONE!
RA23 - Twincharged
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