mx83 rear brake upgrade

[PlacentaJuan]

ended up getting them done properly, although it cost me 100bucks for the pair!

i reckon that is a bit expensive.



hurry up and order me that disc gavatron!

think ill get some handbrake pads while im at it.

[CrUZida]

For one off pieces, including extra milling, thats cheap.

If you got a dozen done, it would be like $30 each.


Laser cutting one or two pieces is pricey.

[twiztd]

PlacentaJuan - possibility of a group buy of these between here and TC.net? I'd hope there'd be enough interest to get 10 or so made up...

Mike

[PlacentaJuan]

Im going today to get a quote for a batch of 10.

there are some guise on cressida forums who are interested also, i will advertise in both forums, but what is tc.net?

[CrUZida]

tc.net = cressida forums (toyotacressida.net)

[bea73n]

can you list part number for jzx100 rear disc rotor please so we can order them. thanks mate.

[PlacentaJuan]

toyota part number for plain rear disc:

42431-22170

price EACH from toyota is about $175 (i got them from gav the legend for 150!)

(cost me 100 to get it slotted, total cost = $400)

you can also get an aftermarket brand, also from japan from a company called DIXCEL

http://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/rotor.html

DIXCEL part number is 3159002

australian importer/distributor:

http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/home/

got qutoed for one pair i think $370 a while ago, but ppl on cressida forums are tying to organise a group buy and I got a quote for 15+ pairs at $290 a pair (depending on exchange rate at the time of order), which is a saving of over $100 if you want them slotted.

there are few few jzx100 wrecking posts come up now and again (mostly in brisbane for some reason?!?) on here and jzx100 forums but no one seemed interested enough to respond to my pm's about them.


also for your info, i used a pair of spacer rings from the front ba/r33 upgrade, and had the disc machined out to fit them.

since the rings are readily available i thought this would be the easyest way to overcome the 2mm center hole size difference

for info i got 2 discs machined and 2 spacers made up for $40.

[bea73n]

thanks for that info, much appreciated.

[PlacentaJuan]

ok so i have finally finished the conversion, here is what i did:

first i cut away this top lip piece; as even though i had hammered it well out of the way, suspension travel had pushed it back to a position where it rubs on the new rotor.



since i had the angle grinder out i cut a little air inlet like the front had, since the new rotors are now vented. once i put the wheel on i realised this probably wont do much at all.



caliper adaptor bolted up:



it was really hard finding the right size bolt to use for the caliper, it needed to be between 40-45mm shank and it was an M10x1.25 thread. I ened up using some old bolts i found at my brothers but i think some high tensile bolts of the correct lengh will be better.

sorry i didnt get pics of it without the wheel on (i was too excited to get it on the road)





i have only driven it a few kms so far and from the look of it the pads need quite a bit of beedding in, as they are barely making proper contact, so ill have to keep an eye on it, but the braking felt progressively better during the drive, i cant wait to see how it stalls up now!

[PlacentaJuan]

update:

had the new calipers for a couple of weeks now, and i am VERY pleased with their performance.

braking performance has increased way more than i expected.

im not sure what pad they have but its a blue pad so maybe its a performance pad like endless of project mu (i think they are a greeny bluey colour)

i think braided lines would help a lot because i did a really hard stop today and it felt like i could feel the lines "swell" before braking actually kicked in.

this is different from progressively hard braking where you 'load up' the brakes before applying full force; which does the same thing but you dont get the 'swelling' feeling because your not stomping on them.

i cant believe i havnt tried a full stall yet, but i did a little one in the wet outside my house and i got up to about 2200rpm with no wheelspin (some old guy was wathcing me so i didnt want to be naughty) but thats heaps better than the 1800 or so rpm that would lose traction before.

still need to do a really good hills cruise to make sure they dont fade but im in no hurry, might get the suspension done first.

overall this upgrade was well worth all the hassle of making my own brackets and doing all the research.

also a lot of people ask "i hope this fixes the front wheel lockups that abs cressidas have with upgraded fronts and stock rears"

this still happens but i am putting a lot more brake pressure on the wheels than before, so while the front wheels still get some ABS action, its at a much higher rate of decceleration than with the stock rears. (if that makes sense)

[RObErT_RaTh]

Very good info and looks very nice upgrade on your car with those rims champ

[1.5jzmx83]

r u using stock mx83 brake master cylinder or did u change it to a larger one?? cheers

[PlacentaJuan]

stock mx83 master, modified camry booster.

to get brake conversions engineered in SA they do a brake bias check so i will know if there are any problems.

fwiw mx73 with r33 fronts and stock rears passed the brake bias check.

[1.5jzmx83]

any pics or info on the modified camry booster ??? cheers

[PlacentaJuan]

yea heaps of pics in my members rides thread, i only needed it to fit the 2jz with stock turbos in the engine bay. if you dont have a 2jz then you dont have to worry about the booster (however i was more than happy with the braking improvement that the newer booster gave me)

it cost a mint to make (500 bucks) and unless you are definately going to stick with the stock twins, you are better off putting the cash towards a single turbo.