4AGE 20v waterline ideas

[ArubaAe86]

Hi, I was doing a research on the waterlines of the 20v today. I am rebuilding one my self and was wondering an easy way to pas the tubing under the ITB's but also leaving it as stock as possible. I am on a tropic island and we don't have winters here so I don't want to use a thermostat neither internal heaters.

My question is can I block off the water output on the side and use the two holes on the back of the head as you can see in the picture below to run these two with a custom builth neck to the radiator.



I found, searching arround a drawing of the original water route of the 20v, you can see it below.



I Don't remember if the side hole on the head and the one on the back are conected.

Thanks in advance for you help.

[Sam_Q]

have you considered running the re-routed cooling system design that doesn't have external pipes? all the information about it should be next to where that first image came from.

Also you need a thermostat, your weather there is irrelevant. The thermostat keeps your engine at a constant temperature which then keeps your parts running with equal expansion and within the right tollerances.

BTW the left port on that head is connected to the port next to the extractors.

So which island are you on anyway? Hawaii? because I have sold a few kits there.

[ArubaAe86]

Hi Sam-Q thanks for the reply, I have to say you are popular when it comes to this sort of problems on the 20v. I saw your name everywhere on the net. On club4ag.com one guy recomended to try the ideas from this post.
I saw your guide and considered, but one problem I have is that it's hard to find the parts here to build it for example the 16v water pump housing. I live on Aruba, Dutch Caribean islands. It is always hot here temperatures almost never reaching below 84°F.

have you considered running the re-routed cooling system design that doesn't have external pipes? all the information about it should be next to where that first image came from.

Also you need a thermostat, your weather there is irrelevant. The thermostat keeps your engine at a constant temperature which then keeps your parts running with equal expansion and within the right tollerances.

BTW the left port on that head is connected to the port next to the extractors.

So which island are you on anyway? Hawaii? because I have sold a few kits there.

[bajallama]

Thermostat is essential. Not only does it help on warmup but, it keeps your cooling system pressurized and by regulating the waterflow, it allows time for the heat transfer in your radiator to take effect, keeping your engine cooler.



From this picture if you really dont need port B, however it does allow coolant to run to your thermostat to open it once your engine is warmed, which you really need. So if you wanted to run just A and C, you could use a remote thermostat housing (2 small block chevy water necks that come off the top of the block, bolted together might work, Volvo ones work too) you would need some way of letting the thermostat open up once the engine is warmed. I once drilled a couple small holes in the thermostat to allow a small amount of water flow during warm up. I'm not a 20v expert, but it seems like it would work.

[ArubaAe86]

What if I use an Inline thermostat for this setup? Could it work or do I need a sort of bypass? Since I'm going with a turbo setup for this engine I realy want to make the waterline as stock as possible and with the line going under the intake manifold. I think port A and B are connected together in this case I think it would be better to blind of port A and just use port B and C.

Thermostat is essential. Not only does it help on warmup but, it keeps your cooling system pressurized and by regulating the waterflow, it allows time for the heat transfer in your radiator to take effect, keeping your engine cooler.



From this picture if you really dont need port B, however it does allow coolant to run to your thermostat to open it once your engine is warmed, which you really need. So if you wanted to run just A and C, you could use a remote thermostat housing (2 small block chevy water necks that come off the top of the block, bolted together might work, Volvo ones work too) you would need some way of letting the thermostat open up once the engine is warmed. I once drilled a couple small holes in the thermostat to allow a small amount of water flow during warm up. I'm not a 20v expert, but it seems like it would work.

[bajallama]

Well yes, thats what I meant by remote thermostat housing, its an inline thermostat. And yes you would need some sort of bypass to get the waming water to the thermostat, thats what I meant about drilling small holes in the thermostat, its the same thing. Not sure on the A or B thing, maybe use A and run one pipe on each side of the motor? I would do some research on thermostat location too, I know some thermostats are pre-pump flow and some are post pump flow, depends on application I believe. Is your turbo water cooled?

[ArubaAe86]

Is it possible to build an aluminum block like in this kit.


And block of the A port on the head and put an inline thermostat? I don't know if this kit has a build in bypass for the thermostat.
Btw my turbo will be water cooled.