the_random_hero's TA22, V8 on the way :)

[the_random_hero]

POR make a good rust repair kit
Is there holes in that, or, will you be able to hit it with a 3M wheel, and, go back to bare, then prime it with the POR stuff (metal ready) then hit it with the POR paint?

Nothing I can easily get to has any holes (only place I can see a hole is going to be extremely hard to get to with any sort of cutting/grinding tools; not to mention a welder), everything else is just surface rust. I'll get some more pictures of the area I'm most worried about tomorrow.
Is the POR kit an online thing or will I have to venture to a store to get it? If so, where? I work 8-5 weekdays, which makes it quite hard to buy stuff.

[Grega]

POR should be something you can get online yeah
try http://www.ppc.au.com/ and see if they can help mate

[Mos]

Later model 1UZ-FE has 216kW@fly. With better intake, removing mechanical fan/aircon/powersteering, tuned length headers and ECU I can't see any reason why this couldn't hit 250kW@fly - which should get quite close to the 200kW@rears mark. If I've got any drastic errors in these calculations, please let me know right now

What calculations have you shown that *give* you a reason to see 250fwkw? Auto or manual?
I do have one of those later model 1UZs. It's making anywhere between 190 and 210rwkw, depending on dyno, time of day, heatsoak, stage of the moon, etc. It has headers, aftermarket ECU, no engine fan (it's hydraulic, not mechanical), no air flow meter. It does however run power steering, but I'm not sure it does anything other than circulate fluid when you're not turning. Air con has no effect when off. I also have a manual box.
What do you mean by better intake? If you mean pipe with filter then I have that also. If you're thinking of redoing the entire intake manifold you will probably loose more than you gain.

BTW, I have only seen 4 of these for sale in the last 4 years.
To be honest if I was building up an older car I don't know if I'd go to the expense and complication of using a VVT-i engine.... It's definitely a better engine, but I have a feeling in a light chassis the early version will still cause you many hassles (traction wise).

Mos.

[ollie83]

I have a feeling in a light chassis the early version will still cause you many hassles (traction wise).

10charzz

[Sciflyer]

Unless there's a significant difference between a VVT-i and early 1UZ, based on my measurements those figures are a bit conservative.
The VVT-i 1UZ - W58 remote shifter combo, including absolutely everything (all the mounts, headers, accessories, etc) is around 290kg. A bear engine with no accessories (other than intake manifold) is around the 200kg mark.
I have all the individual masses if anyone is interested. (Note that they were weighed with a digital scale with annual calibration that gets used to calibrate medical patient lifter scales).
I don't have the values for the W58 and components on file though - they're at home on paper.

There is no way this http://www.race-cars.com/engsales/ot...00038700ss.htm could weigh 150kg if the bare engine as you say is 200kg

And going by Errol's threads on v-eight.com i dont think he would be inaccurate in something like that.

I appreciate that you have weighed your VVTi and really we're just revisiting the old thread i linked to above, but something doesnt add up

I have a short engine at home i could weigh, but it dont think thats going to prove much

[web]

Equally rubbery for the JZ's, from 240-280kg, no idea if this includes turbos and what ancillarys

Back in 2001, I weighed a GA70 1JZ-GTE fully dressed, that's with:
- alternator
- starter
- engine wiring harness
- engine oil (~ 5 litres)
- the A342E auto transmission and its shift linkage+kickdown cable, and oil.
- the transmission crossmember
- intake manifold, fuel rail, pulsation damper, alloy engine mounts.
- stock twin turbos and with IC pipes, water and oil plumbing.
- the cast iron exhaust tee
- all hoses and hard lines attached

And found a total of 291.5kg. (e-mail archives FTW!)

The PS and AC pumps with brackets that I removed prior to weighing added 14kg - bumping the total to 305.5kg - just over the 300 mark.

Later, I weighed an A340E with torque converter, and found it weighs 78.5kg. This had oil in the converter but the pan drained, so I have to add like 3kg of oil there, leaving 210kg for the fully dressed engine less PS and AC pumps, 224kg if you include them too, for an engine as fully dressed as can be, without transmission but with flexplate.

I now have a non VVT 1UZ in the garage, maybe I should weigh that too, so I know whether I actually did get a lighter engine, which was the point of the whole exchange at the time (Yes, I traded that 1JZGTE for a 1UZFE).

At least the 1UZ is shorter, putting less of its weight ahead of the front axle. That's gotta be worth something in reducing the lead tipped arrow effect.

[web]

Unless there's a significant difference between a VVT-i and early 1UZ, based on my measurements those figures are a bit conservative.
The VVT-i 1UZ - W58 remote shifter combo, including absolutely everything (all the mounts, headers, accessories, etc) is around 290kg. A bear engine with no accessories (other than intake manifold) is around the 200kg mark.
I have all the individual masses if anyone is interested.

Finally got around to weighing my early 1UZ. It turns out to be a fair bit lighter than your VVTi engine. My UZS131 motor weighs 195kg.

Included:
- both exhaust manifolds (extremely short type)
- both engine mounts and associated shocks
- intake from the throttle body down.
- wiring loom, engine ECU
- coils
- igniters
- A/T flexplate
- Clutch fan
- starter
- all the little plastic covers everywhere

Not included:
- gearbox or bellhousing
- alternator
- ac pump
- ps pump
- any fluids

I didn't take the time to weigh all parts individually. For lack of proper equipment, I used two bathroom scales, but the ones I used are not off by more than 1kg or so from calibrated medical scales, as shown by weighing the same person on them. And these read high, if anything.

Add an alternator, flywheel, clutch and W58 and that setup should weigh about 250kg without AC or PS. Say 260kg with fluids. That's still 80kg more than the 2TB+T50 that came out. Some of that is in the gearbox, and some would be offset a bit by a heavier rear axle, so the net nose bias added would be about 50kg I guess. No idea what R-series boat anchors weigh though - the 2T was the lightest engine ever sold in that chassis.

Corrected for individual parts, my early 1JZ-GTE was just 10kg heavier than my early 1UZ, and would've been lighter than a VVTi 1UZ. Hmmm... okay, the JZ would have higher CG and is like 10cm longer as well. Still, choosing the V8 for its better weight bias isn't as big a difference as I'd like to believe.

Is there an engine weight thread anyway? This info is best put there for future searches

[sheepers]

i got pretty much the same numbers when i weighed a 1UZ and a 1JZ.
225 for the 1JZ and 205 for the 1UZ.
this ties in with the figures above pretty well...
sheepers.

[web]

225 is actually within 1kg of my 1JZ figure - with the AC and PS pumps on that is.

[ed]

web, mind if i steal your weight data for my site?

cheers
ed

[web]

no prob but thanks for asking!

[web]

And now for the 1G-GTE, a 3rd gen GZ20 Soarer midsump engine. It weighs 180kg.

Included:
- full OE twin CT12 setup with intake T and Y pipes and stock cast iron exhaust Y pipe.
- both engine mounts including the rubbery bits (round fluid filled type)
- full intake manifold with TB and IC hardpipes.
- wiring loom
- A/T flexplate
- all the little plastic covers everywhere
- alternator + belt

Not included:
- engine ECU, coil, igniter (2kg total?)
- clutch fan
- starter <2kg
- gearbox or bellhousing
- ac pump
- ps pump
- any fluids

As with 1UZ:
I didn't take the time to weigh all parts individually. For lack of proper equipment, I used two bathroom scales, but the ones I used are not off by more than 1kg or so from calibrated medical scales, as shown by weighing the same person on them. And these read high, if anything.

[web]

Comparo:

In similar states of "dress", so corrected for fair comparison:

2T-B : 138kg (added 1kg for the A/T flex plate that was attached to the others when I weighed them)
1G-GTE: 183kg (had to add 2kg for the starter and 1kg for electronics)
1UZ-FE: 199kg (added 4kg for a typical alternator)
1JZ-GTE: 206kg (subtracted 4kg for engine oil)

State: fully dressed with the essentials like intake, exhaust, electronics, alternator, mounts and starter, but no AC, PS or fluids.

Lengths from bell flange to whatever pokes into the radiator first, not counting the clutch fan:
2TB : 62cm (early waterpump) or 58cm (late water pump - clutch fan type)
1G-GTE: 67cm (the 3-belt crank pulley)
1UZ-FE: 70cm (water pump shaft ; UZS131 version that originally had a clutch fan)
1JZ-GTE: 78cm (water pump pulley bolt)

So 1UZ is 3cm shorter than 1GGTE if you don't count the clutch fan. If you do, they would be the same length because the 1UZ has a single belt with the water pump pulley sticking out past the crank pulley, and as we know the 1GGTE has THREE belts. It will be no surprise that the extra 3cm are in the crankshaft pulley only...

1JZ is 8cm LONGER than a 1uz, and that's with a single belt.