Engine run in guidance...

[oldcorollas]

Most cam manufacturer's/grinders treat their newly cut cams to a hardening process.

ORLY? OEM perhaps, but very little in custom grinds, if at all.


if your carbs are well rich, they can wash the oil off the bores.. but that might even help the running in process.
it also depends how the bore has been honed (ie to form plateaus instead of peaks... as such) as to how much "running in" it needs.

she'll be roight.

[soulfire]

rodger mate - i owe you a carton / case of beer, you have been so much help every time i've posted a question about the ole twin carbs!

what you've said makes a lot of sense..

however, i did not retain the factory balancer between the 2 carbs. I've got a redline manifold that came with it's own linkage kit. I have balanced the 2 carbs (to the best of my ability) using this kit, they both look to open and close at the same time / same places.

oh, so exessive fuel isn't going to harm the run in process? that's a massive relief....

[Rodger]

Thank you. Beer not neccessary just maybe a video of a nice runing hybrid.

Yep with the Redline manifold and linkage kit all you need to do then is set the idle speed screws to the same amount from contact and as you have done make sure they both open evenly and not have one move before the other.

Good stuff.

Regards

Rodger

[soulfire]

another question for ya rodger -

would it be worthwhile purchasing one of those balancing tools?

you stick it down the throat and it gives you a reading, thus allowing you to balance the carbs a lot easier?

[Rodger]

I do it purely by ear. I do not get it perfect, but good enough that engine does not wobbly about.

A good way at idle speeds is to pull a plug lead in turn off each cylinder which checks if it causes the same a mount of engine change especially across font carb and rear carb. I solved one issue I had with a pair by doing this. #3 and #4 did not make a change in idle until I wound on more balance to that carb, it was basically shut off but idleing reasonably.

Listening to the sound the carbs make just off idle on a fast idle can also help set balance.
Watching how they transition off idle is also a way to balance them.

Once they are close then the dyno shop will use the tools to balance them better. Mind you I have never had to have someone balance my sets I have run with a fancy tool. It would make it quicker, but I have not justified the cost even though some give me strife, guess experience for me helps a bit.

Now if I had three or more on an engine then it would be cost effective.

Regards

Rodger

[TERRA Operative]

ORLY? OEM perhaps, but very little in custom grinds, if at all.


if your carbs are well rich, they can wash the oil off the bores.. but that might even help the running in process.
it also depends how the bore has been honed (ie to form plateaus instead of peaks... as such) as to how much "running in" it needs.

she'll be roight.

Tighe cams harden their custom grinds with a number of methods during manufacture, including cryo, nitriding and induction hardening.

http://www.tighecams.com.au/different.htm.

We got a batch made for the Mazda 323 SP20 (sent some to the states too) and they are a beautifully made cam.

[oldcorollas]

says they can, but not that they do... they induction harden new cams, but regrinds?
anyway
it's all cryogenetical

[abently]

says they can, but not that they do... they induction harden new cams, but regrinds?
anyway
it's all cryogenetical

If you ask for a regrind that reduces the base lobe diameter, then you need a slap across the face.

If you get the lobes welded up and recut, then the hardening is incl in the quoted price.

I'm not sure with Wade, Camtech and the others etc.

[TERRA Operative]

says they can, but not that they do... they induction harden new cams, but regrinds?
anyway
it's all cryogenetical

Dunno, we only get new cams made from billet stock, with the works.

'Tis one of the reasons why our custom profiled cams are still highly sought after and still fetching near retail price on the secondhand market in the US.

[oldcorollas]

If you ask for a regrind that reduces the base lobe diameter, then you need a slap across the face.

i guess it depends on the engine. on some it is beneficial

hardfacing is always hit and miss... some get it mostly right, some very wrong... some just chip occasionally you reharden a built up hardfaced lobe?

aaaanyway

[soulfire]

rodger!

on inspection of my redline linkage kit, it seems that I can't adapt it to work properly with my solex's (kit is for DCOE webbers)

do you know how hard it is to source the original middle linkage setup for some twin solex's?

cheers
adam

[Rodger]

Adam,

You have found one of the main differences between the Mikuni/Solex and Weber/Dellorto.

Mikuni has a metric 8mm shaft and the Weber and Dellorto have a slightly smaller imperial shaft.

Mikuni no longer supply new linkages suitable for a pushrod balance bar type set up such as I show on my web site and what you have there. I have very few used ones that are being saved for rebuilds but I may have a pair suitable for your S5s and will look tonight.

If you have the OEM 2T-G set of linkages/throttle arms, they can be adapted, I am low on these too. But if you can supply me with the distance between the ends of the throttle shafts and the distance between the top middle two filter mounting holes (where I mount my cable brackets) I can then suggest which path to go for you. OEM Mikuni, 2T-G or 18R-G.

Regards

Rodger

[soulfire]

Thanks rodger

I am going to scrounge the house, because my carbs did come with the orignal linkages ( i think the balancer bar was broken however). Dad moved heaps of my stuff when I was rebuilding them... so now the hunt will be on.

I "modified" the red-line kit to work with my solexs, however, I can't seem to work out how to place the linkages on with them being able to hit the full throttle stops?
It's really hard to explain and I spent a couple of hours yesterday toying around with the kit to no avail. There was just no way I could get the arm off the balancer bar to hit the throttle stop on the linkage connected to the carburettor...

any insights?

If anything, it might be worthwhile just picking up a pair of webers... and just selling my rebuilt S5 PHH40's...

[Rodger]

Patience Adam.

Ask Josh (74Canbra) how hard it is to pick up a used pair of Webers.

Stick with what you have as they are a known quantity. If you really want to get Webers, sure the Redline Linkages will bolt on but you have no way of knowing if the Webers are ok until you get them.

I will look in the shed tonight.

Regards

Rodger

[soulfire]

Haha sorry Rodger, I was thinking out loud!

There's a redline kit that mimics the standard linkage setup, but again, that will be suited to a weber yes?

I was thinking, if you could get me a technical drawing of the standard linkage + spring that is used etc. I could get a whole heap fabbed up by an engineer that I know?