so it doesnt crunch or anything when you try to put it in gear?
have you tried slotting into gear without the engine running?
Bloody random but I swapped a steering rack, did some tweaks to my IC mounting and re-bled my coolant... idled the car for about half an hour.
Couple of hours later went to drive the car and it would not go into gear.
Since, I've re-bled the clutch system (twice) and the slave seems to be throwing the fork doobie the full throw but I still can't get it into gear while the car is running.
I've triple checked the hydraulic system for leaks or accidental dents to the pipes that may have happened swaaping the rack but it's all good.
There is a squeaking sound coming from the fork part on the box when the clutch pedal is pressed but no rattling like a stuffed throw out bearing usually makes.
So at this stage all I have left is to test with another slave cylinder and/or drop the box.
This is not how I prefer to spend the final day of 2008 and E series box is fkn heavy and I will likely die when it lands on me.
Engine and box were put together about 2 months ago and there was heaps of meat on the clutch and I havnt been doing any hard launches as the engine has been running in.
So looking for any other suggestions as to what I could check before I rip off the box any ideas greatly appreciated.
Car is AW11 with 4AGZE and E51.
PLease help.
AW11 - 1988 Red ADM 4AGZE conversion +
MZW11 - 1987 Track car - "Ag-Spec Racing 1" - 1MZ powered AW11
ST246 - 2002 Caldina GT-Four 'N-Edition'
MS65 - 1973 Bash Car bash.skyracing.tv/
so it doesnt crunch or anything when you try to put it in gear?
have you tried slotting into gear without the engine running?
I have a Crown
What does it feel like?????
Normal/usual amount of pedal free play & increasing resistance going down to the floor board?
How long since it last worked OK & any water been dumped on it since then?
Start it when in gear, pedal on the floor.
'I've scrapped better.' John stated when asked about the car by the guy with the silver tipped cowboy boots!
Yeah crunches like hell when i try to shift into any gear.Originally Posted by STR8 2.8
Shifts OK with engine off.
AW11 - 1988 Red ADM 4AGZE conversion +
MZW11 - 1987 Track car - "Ag-Spec Racing 1" - 1MZ powered AW11
ST246 - 2002 Caldina GT-Four 'N-Edition'
MS65 - 1973 Bash Car bash.skyracing.tv/
Pedal feels normal... if anything, a bit stiffer since I bled it.Originally Posted by allencr
Worked fine that morning and the last 2 months since the engine went in.
I can start the car in gear with the clutch pressed it creeps with cranking.
Cheers
AW11 - 1988 Red ADM 4AGZE conversion +
MZW11 - 1987 Track car - "Ag-Spec Racing 1" - 1MZ powered AW11
ST246 - 2002 Caldina GT-Four 'N-Edition'
MS65 - 1973 Bash Car bash.skyracing.tv/
had an MR2 with the same symptoms last month, spring had ripped out of the exedy clutch plate which was only a few thousand K's old.
could the spiggot bearing have seized?
I would try starting the car in gear (with clutch in) and see what happens
It doesn't have a spigot bearing. FWD style transaxle.
|| 91 MX83 Cressida Grande 1JZGTE - Daily || 84 MA61 Supra 2JZGE - Track ||
oops
My next sugestion would be the clutch plate "grown " to the flywheel.... but this only happens when the car has been sitting for a long time.
best way to fix it, is to drive the car with foot on the clutch and wait for it to "let go"....
MR2 clutches are a complete bitch to bleed properly without a vac bleeder.
Find yourself a mityvac or make a vacuum brake bleeder.
We tried for almost an hour whilst looking for our mityvac, always got a shitty pedal, looked like enough throw, but didn't feel right or select gears cleanly.
10 mins with the mityvac had it sorted.
http://www.mr2.com/forums/tool-box/T...ding-tool.html
see here for more details on using engine vacuum
The spanner in my avatar is actually a 16mm, that's why it's still new
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