2jz-ge cams

**chris davey** · 14-03-2006, 08:23 PM

Hey mate,

Just wondering if anyone has the stock specs for the 2jz-ge cams? I am assuming that the 2jz-ge cams would need the same slight modification that the 2jz-gte cams would need. And I have read that 1jz-ge cams only have one notch for a cam sensor and need another to have 2 functioning cam sensors. Does the same apply for the 2jz-ge cams and if so is it the front or rear cam sensor notch that needs to be added? I am running a microtech and AFAIK I only need the reart cam sensor.

Thanks

Chris

P.S yes I did search.

**gianttomato** · 14-03-2006, 08:56 PM

Pretty sure I posted the specs on the old forums a long, long long time ago. Anyway, they're nothing special. Something like 230ish degrees advertised and 8.3 or 8.5mm lift IIRC.

The exhaust cam has the dizzy drive gear whch might foul on stuff in a 1JZ head (no idea here - never bothered to try). Easy enough to machine off but I figure that's just money you could use to buy serious cams.

Do you have pics of the intake cam, in particular the timing tabs for the rear cam angle sensor? The 2JZGE intake cam has two "tabs" in between cylinders 4 and 5 but obviously they're not used for anything. Then we could do a bit of a pictorial.

Sorry didn't quite get around to replying to your PM.

**chris davey** · 14-03-2006, 10:35 PM

No problem, probably good info for others who may want to do a similar thing in the future.

Yeah I can get some pics of the stock 1jz cams.

I am also trying to get figures for the 1jz-ge cams. They are cheap and 1jzracing was saying that they offer a very broad powerband and slight gains over the whole rev range which is something that I would like

Does the 1jz-ge have a dizzy as well? I can't remember now but the guy that is selling the 1jz-ge cams didn't mention any need for grinding off the dizzy drive gear but I suppose he may not know as well. I will ask him for some pics of those cams as well.

Chris

**gianttomato** · 14-03-2006, 10:53 PM

1JZGE has a dizzy.

I'll post up some pics when I get a little bit of time tomorrow.

**chris davey** · 15-03-2006, 01:15 PM

This thread http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...light=2jz+cams has the info. on what is required to get 2jz-gte cams into a 1jz.

The difference between 2jz-gte and 2jz-ge would be the dizzy drive gear which apparently doesn't foul on anything and doesn't need to be changed and the single notch on the intake cam instead of 2. If it only has the intake (rear) notch then that should be fine as that is the only one I need for the microtech.

This is the before and after which a mild modded stock turbo 1jz.

From what I have found out these are the specs of the different cams

Intake Exhuast
1jz-gte
lift 7.69 7.95
duration (adv)
duration @ .050" 189.1 194.1
lobe centre

1jz-ge
lift
duration (adv)
duration @ .050"
lobe centre

2jz-gte USDM
lift 8.25 8.4
duration (adv) 233 236
duration @ .050" 200 205
lobe centre

2jz-gte JDM
lift 7.8 8.4
duration (adv) 224 236
duration @ .050" 205
lobe centre

2jz-ge
lift 8.3 8.3
duration (adv) 230ish 230ish
duration @ .050"
lobe centre

So that would mean that the 2jz-ge cams are actually less lift and duration than 2jz-gte's which seems to go against what most other engines from toyota do with na and turbo engines. And if the 2jz-ge's are smaller I probably wouldn't go with them. So the 2jz-gte USDM look to be the best at the moment depending on what the 1jz-ge cams turn out to be. I will only be doing this for a cheap upgrade if it is worthwhile.

**chris davey** · 15-03-2006, 01:16 PM

if you say the notch on the 2jz-ge cam is between 4&5 I think that is the front cam sensor which is for the exhaust

**gianttomato** · 15-03-2006, 01:23 PM

The 8.3 is what I remember - I did it a long time ago. Could be more but memory is hazy - suffice to say I wouldn't waste my time with them. You'll also get a lot of variability in these measurements because hardly anybody actually measures lift the correct way (with a dial indicator). Most people will measure the lift by subtracting the diameter across the lobe from the base circle + lobe height (only accurate if the advertised duration is less than 180 degrees).

My advice to you is to get your lobes welded up and a have a nice turbo friendly grind put on them. It'll cost you the best part of a grand but then they're done. You'll haveserious power gains and not the sort of stuff you posted above which might bea power gain but it could just as easily be with the range of error of the dyno or condition dependent.

**chris davey** · 15-03-2006, 01:24 PM

yeah, it looks like that will be the eventual result or some custom cams. Stick with what I have for now then

**gianttomato** · 16-03-2006, 04:56 PM

Pink arrows point to the tabs I was talking about. You can see them more clearly on the exhaust cam. These are my big wiggle sticks with 11mm lift on them. You can see how tight the lobes are with the lifter bores - so now you can understand my skepticism when 1JZ-747 suggested his mate had cams with 23mm lift. I'll believe 13 mm, but the retainer slams into the top of the valve stem seal at around 15mm lift, not to mention how much grinding would be required to make the bastards fit.

I did notice there were solitary little tabs in between the lobes for 1 - 2 and 3 - 4. If you doweled the rocker cover so that its position was always fixed and fitted the cam angle sensor in the rocker cover (doweled as well), you could make it work. Obviously you'd need to play with the reference angle in your Microleb - I assume that's possible (I know nothing about them).