clutch pedal just stops

[ctrain]

Ive just done a 5sp manual conversion on my 22, everything been going sweet until i hooked up the clutch and it feels like a brake pedal... it just stops, the slave only moves about an inch out, i have bled it all too. i did put the clutch all back together how it should be, the thrust bearings new, spigot bearing is new, new bearing clips, clutch fork pivot is cleaned and re greased, the only thing i can think of is the spigot bearing is to small for the input shaft to fit in too, am i correct in say that the input shaft gets pushed into the bearing hole when the clutch is engaged? or does it sit in it when the gearbox bolts up?

When i took the old bearing one out it didnt have a part number on it so the guy at bursons found one that had the same size hole (from what he could tell with his eyes) which is why i think it may be the bearing being to small for the input shaft.

any help would be apprecciated!

Cheers,
Callum

[stidnam]

input shaft doesn't move. If it does then you have serious gearbox issues. If you got the box bolted on correctly then it is seated correctly in the spiggot bearing. The throwout bearing shouldn't cause the issues you are describing. If it is too big then you wouldn't notice it and if it is too small then it could be forced through the fingers which would be greater pedal travel but these are unlikely.

What is the pressure plate like? Is this reused as it is likely that this is your issue. Other thing to check is that the slave cylinder has full free travel without pressing on the clutch fork but be careful that you don't overextend it as you can damage the seal. Next thing to check is that the adjustable rod between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork is correctly adjusted. If these are ok then it is an issue inside the bellhousing and first suspect is the pressure plate.

[ctrain]

i had geelong brake and clutch look at the pressure plate and the clutch disc they said they both looked fine and good to use, the slave is brand new and extends to its full proper length, the clutch rod is properly adjusted, can the fork pivot ball be adjusted? im pretty sure more can, could that be the problem, that the pivot point is to close to the slave?

[JDM hachi]

is there any problem with the pedal (inside car) that may be the cause...........

[oldcorollas]

either that or your assembly of clutch/gearbox/engine is not ideal.

is friction plate the correct way around?

clutch master seized?

[allencr]

Does this slave cylinder have a circlip in it to limit the piston's movement, stop it from popping out?
That's what would give the pedal a solid feel, other then a completely broken clutch that has no spring action at all. Or, is the fork hitting the hole in the bellhousing at the end of its travel?
////
If the clutch fork is being limited by its hole in the trans case, then the thing that it pivots on should be adjusted so that its at 90 degrees halfway thru its sweep.

'about an inch' is about twice as much as a slaves stuff should move, are you exaggerating?

...slave is brand new and extends to its full proper length, the clutch rod is properly adjusted,

There is no 'full proper length', its piston moves in between the bottom & the end of its bore, well within the limits of each on setups without an external spring pulling the clutch fork. With a clutch fork spring, the piston gets bottomed out and the rod is adjusted to give just a bit of free play & no load on the release bearing.

[jondee86]

Ive just done a 5sp manual conversion on my 22...

Have you tried using the clutch with the engine running ? Actually engaged gears and slipped or driven the car ? If your slave is moving about an inch, then your master and slave cylinders are not matched. Your slave is over-extending, and some part of the linkage or clutch is bottoming out.

Cheers... jondee86

[ctrain]

nah i havnt tried using the clutch when the engines running, ill give it a go on the weekend

ive got a video of the problem from my point of view

Clutch problem - YouTube

take note that all the brake fluid was spilt from the coke bottle, and the drip was running down the line

ive never had a manual so im a bit of a noob, so sorry if ive been a bit daft on the explantation ahah

Cheers
Callum

[dnegative]

Pull the gearbox off mate, something aint right.

[ctrain]

yep thought so...

[dnegative]

yep thought so...

Wont take you long but before you do, quickly remove the slave and see how it works when not pushing the fork?
Doesn't look like the master is bottoming out though.

[ctrain]

ive dont that, got a big pry bar onto it and it wont budge, taking the gearbox off is easy, either moving it to my mates shed with a hoist or taking the whole engine out is going to be a ****

[ctrain]

well ive taken out the motor and removed the gearbox, turns out i put the clutch disc on backwards derp. I think i need to adjust the ball pivot too.

[ctrain]

well tried again and its still the same, even with the clutch disc on the right way. Me and my uncle (mechanic) have checked over everything and cant seem to find the problem, the master and slave work fine, when the clutch plate is bolted on the fork retract in a little, everythings clean, all adjusted.

Im gonna just buy an OEM replacement and re-do it all with a new clutch, im not sure if the clutch is a heavy duty on, or even a standard plate.

[ta22fan]

Not all that much that can be wrong from the slave cylinder - it's pretty simple stuff. Are you 100% sure about the manual conversion parts you sourced? Are they all definitely TA22 spec (flywheel, pressure plate, fork, bearing)?