for some reason i seem to remember these cars being full with an FJ in them...
Ok I talked to that guy on NS who put a 1J in his 180 and he said the 1J is shorter than any RB and weighs about 40kg more than an SR. Another mate with an S12 was going to put an RB20 in his and said that he measured it up and that it would fit, so I'm assuming that if an RB20 would fit in and if the statement about 1J's being shorter than any RB is true, then a 1J should fit in
He said he cut the mounts on the crossmember to get the engine to sit lower and by doing so he was able to move the engine a bit further back. He said he hasnt had any problems with understeer in his car
for some reason i seem to remember these cars being full with an FJ in them...
Although I'd hesitate to agree that the 1J is only 40kg heavier than an SR (i'd put the 1G as 40kg more than an SR, with the 1J about another 40kg heavier than that), I can definetly see it being shorter than an RB. My 1G looks tiny compared to an RB!
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
My mates S12 before he pulled it down for a rebuild didn't look cramped with the FJ in it, I would imagine width wise with a VG30 they' d be cramped thoughOriginally Posted by SL666
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If in doubt power out
the s12 had the narrow FJ20 inlet manifold on them though.. so they would clear the brake stuff...
i recon its going to be tight..
these engine bays swallow 1UZ's and 308's etc with ease.. and a 1j is TIGHT..
Its not a factory S12 gazelle though its a conversion, so more than likely the engine would of been sourced from a DR30, as there isn't too many silvia rsx half cuts around.
If in doubt power out
Apparently there was a guy in S.A who had a 1J S12, someone I was talking to thinks if I move the firewall back it should fit
i hear thats all rod hadfied had to do with his chev![]()
^^can you please explain what you mean that didnt really make any sense at all to me lol
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
yah, fairy nuff.. there is a difference between drift and dorifto, and i suppose i was implying that for dorifto, it's not as important, but for serious high speed drift (the kind that doesn't involve moving firewalls back with a hammer BEFORE drivingOriginally Posted by MR 1JZ wrote many things..including..
) stability is important...
"drifting stability" of sliding (non-gripping) tyres as opposed to handling of tyres that have relatively static grip (ie less than the limit of slip angle at which tyres make maximum traction)
all i meant to imply was that for dorifto, it won't matter what engine or whatever, as the kiddies still get their dorifto kicks..... but for serious high speed sliding, it takes a lot more mental effort to set up a car than just sticking big motor and coilovers in and having one arm out the window
dorifto?![]()
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the fucken whoosh smiley wrecked me![]()
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Sounds like it would be a sweet as conversion. but i would like to put my two cents in if i may!![]()
If you want to go for something a little more practical and heaps of less head f**ks then you should just put a CA18DET in it.
You already have a shitty ca20 in it. the ca18 will BOLT STRAIGHT IN. same mounts, same gear box. hell, you can use the same radiator if you want. would make your life a heap easier.
there are still heaps of aftermarket goodies available and nissan turbos are easy to come by for a cheap and quick upgrade.
I am about to start this conversion in my series 3 bluebird, as it has a crappo CA20 carby motor....ive done plenty of research and its not that hard to achieve.
Just a thought, if you decide to go for something easier. piece of cake!
Originally Posted by The Witzl
at least with a CA18 you can nuke it every weekend for a year for the cost of a 1j conversion
yeah i know how easy the ca18det isOriginally Posted by slide86
i wanna go for something different though..if i get sick of fucking around with the 1j lol ill go back to it probably haha
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