AE86/Sprinter Fuse Box - Wiring Help

[xXxPigeonKickerxXx]

Hey guys,

I have a ADM AE86 which has had a 100kw 4A-GE Engine Conversion done by the previous owner, and I must say the wiring so far after redoing the whole EFI system is a joke. I just have a few questions here as I was trying to redo the fuses on the battery terminal and other wires which go into the body.

1. First question is from the Alternator from the big post (B+ terminal) on this loom (which I believe is from an AE92) has 2 medium gauge wires (white with a blue broken line stripe) going over the valve covers and goes to the Fusible Link/Mini Fuse box on the positive terminal under the 40A AM1 fuse, the second wire comming from the alternator was taped up and left hanging under the fuse box.

This is where one of the two wires coming from the B+ terminal on the alternator.


Is this correct? There is a 100A ALT fuse on the mini fuse holder but that is not connected to any part of the alternator. Should I connect the second wire from the alternator (B+) to the 100A ALT fuse?

2. Next there is two wire which come off the 100A ALT fuse one of which is of a large gauge which has been soldered to a smaller gauge wire which then goes to the fuse box, the second wire appears to be a 12 gauge white wire which goes to the chassis loom. Does anyone know where this wire goes?, I have removed some of the tape where the loom goes to the left side fender and the loom which goes across the top of the radiator and to the other side of the car, and this wire appears to go to the other side of the car.




Here is a photo of the wire which went to the fuse box.


3. The white one goes to 100A ALT Fuse, and the Red wire with the black stripe and blue dot goes directly to the battery without passing any fuses. Does anyone know where these wires are supposed to go?

4. There is a Black wire with a red stripe which comes from the body loom which is connected to the 30A AM2 Fuse, does anyone know where this wire goes? and what is it for?

5. When removing the tape which the previous owner had used to cover the loom I found this red wire with an eye connector on the end and it was connected to nothing. The wire comes from the body loom, does anyone know where this goes?



6. Along with the above wire I also found a stray wire (its is black with a white stripe and has red/brown dots) with a plastic connector on the end which comes from the body loom, Any idea where it goes? or what it is for?



7. During my rewiring of the EFI/Ignition wires there was a wire which is Black with a Brown Stripe which comes from the body loom, and goes to a switched power source (Key in ON position) I know this as it is the same for the injectors, ignition and ignition coil. Does anyone know where it goes? or what it is for?



8. Im running new wires for the EFI system (ECU, Injectors, VL Fuel Pump, Cold Start injector) and also for ignition (ignitor, ignition coil, B+ on check connector) and the new wires which I have already installed but have not wired up yet is two red cables reated for 25 amps each and a single red wire rated at 10 amps I believe, but I also have an alarm and central locking module to wire up to constant power aswell. I am not sure on what to run or how am I going to go about in using these 3 new wires. I am not sure on how much power the EFI circuit will draw, but I have separate relays for the EFI and also one for the Ignition circuit. I was finking 20 amps for the EFI circuit and around 10 amps for the ignition circuit, but I also have wired up that random wire in question number 7 to the ignition circuit. Could anyone please give me hints or info on what I should do.

9. Does anyone have a pinout/wiring diagram for the AE86 fuse box? and possibly of where those large alternator wires go.

I would appreciate if anyone could help me out here, such as providing information, tips and such. I have searched the forums but apparently nothing shows up which is what I am looking for, sorry if this has already been covered but I just couldn't find it.

P.S. I am wiring this at almost 2 in the morning and well if there are any spelling errors or things that don't make sense, that would be the reason .

Cheers, David

[Golberg]

Nothing like a birds nest wiring job.

I'll read your post properly tomorrow and may be able to help with some things.

[Mos]

I have a ADM AE86 which has had a 100kw 4A-GE Engine Conversion done by the previous owner, and I must say the wiring so far after redoing the whole EFI system is a joke. I just have a few questions here as I was trying to redo the fuses on the battery terminal and other wires which go into the body.

Very few people do wiring neatly/properly, so this is not unusual. Even fewer people care about how it's done

1. First question is from the Alternator from the big post (B+ terminal) on this loom (which I believe is from an AE92) has 2 medium gauge wires (white with a blue broken line stripe) going over the valve covers and goes to the Fusible Link/Mini Fuse box on the positive terminal under the 40A AM1 fuse, the second wire comming from the alternator was taped up and left hanging under the fuse box.

This is where one of the two wires coming from the B+ terminal on the alternator.


Is this correct? There is a 100A ALT fuse on the mini fuse holder but that is not connected to any part of the alternator. Should I connect the second wire from the alternator (B+) to the 100A ALT fuse?

Some of this sounds correct, some of it doesn't.
The 100A ALT fuse should be between the battery and the alternator. The alternator also supplies other circuits, ie one will go straight to the chassis, another probably should go through the AM1 fuse to the ignition switch and possibly another might go to the engine bay fusebox. What complicates things is that the AE86 circuit only uses two fuses - AM1 and AM2, whereas the AE92 uses AM1, AM2 and ALT. On the AE86 the AM1 fuse performs the function of the AE92 ALT fuse.
It will be a lot easier to understand once I scan some of the AE86 docs.

2. Next there is two wire which come off the 100A ALT fuse one of which is of a large gauge which has been soldered to a smaller gauge wire which then goes to the fuse box, the second wire appears to be a 12 gauge white wire which goes to the chassis loom. Does anyone know where this wire goes?, I have removed some of the tape where the loom goes to the left side fender and the loom which goes across the top of the radiator and to the other side of the car, and this wire appears to go to the other side of the car.

On the AE86 the alternator output goes to:
Engine bay fusebox (as below).
Heater fan (passenger side).
Ignition switch AM1 circuit and driver's side kick panel fusebox.

Here is a photo of the wire which went to the fuse box.

3. The white one goes to 100A ALT Fuse, and the Red wire with the black stripe and blue dot goes directly to the battery without passing any fuses. Does anyone know where these wires are supposed to go?

The R-B wire will goes through a fusible link (a thinner piece of wire that acts like a fuse) to power some circuits within the engine bay fusebox. These circuits are: HORN-HAZ, RADION NO.1, EFI, Headlight relay (and fuses).
The White wire (which does come off the alternator directly) powers the only the Engine Main Relay which powers the Engine fuse (which only ever powered the alternator and the fuel cut solenoid in the carby). The engine main relay is also connected through to the big 30A Fan fuseholder in the engine bay fusebox but this circuit is not used in an AE86.

4. There is a Black wire with a red stripe which comes from the body loom which is connected to the 30A AM2 Fuse, does anyone know where this wire goes? and what is it for?

The ignition switch has two circuits - AM1,ACC,IG1,ST1, and AM2,IG2,ST2. The B-R wire supplies the AM2 side through the AM2 fuse directly off the battery.
(The AM1 side is supplied off the AM1 fuse).

5. When removing the tape which the previous owner had used to cover the loom I found this red wire with an eye connector on the end and it was connected to nothing. The wire comes from the body loom, does anyone know where this goes?

This is ST2 off the ignition switch, basically starter signal, can be discarded. Can also be used to turn on a starter relay because of its convenient location.
It runs the positive of the 4AC coil to bypass the coil resistor on startup.

6. Along with the above wire I also found a stray wire (its is black with a white stripe and has red/brown dots) with a plastic connector on the end which comes from the body loom, Any idea where it goes? or what it is for?

I think this is the air con compressor wire - check for continuity to the A/C amplifier plug on the evaporator assembly.

7. During my rewiring of the EFI/Ignition wires there was a wire which is Black with a Brown Stripe which comes from the body loom, and goes to a switched power source (Key in ON position) I know this as it is the same for the injectors, ignition and ignition coil. Does anyone know where it goes? or what it is for?

This is actually Black/Orange, not black brown. This is a high current ignition output that ran the ignition coil (through the coil resistor) on the 4AC. It can safely be used to provide power to the ignition coil and injectors of a 4AGE.

8. Im running new wires for the EFI system (ECU, Injectors, VL Fuel Pump, Cold Start injector) and also for ignition (ignitor, ignition coil, B+ on check connector) and the new wires which I have already installed but have not wired up yet is two red cables reated for 25 amps each and a single red wire rated at 10 amps I believe, but I also have an alarm and central locking module to wire up to constant power aswell. I am not sure on what to run or how am I going to go about in using these 3 new wires. I am not sure on how much power the EFI circuit will draw, but I have separate relays for the EFI and also one for the Ignition circuit. I was finking 20 amps for the EFI circuit and around 10 amps for the ignition circuit, but I also have wired up that random wire in question number 7 to the ignition circuit. Could anyone please give me hints or info on what I should do.

There is an EFI relay position in the fusebox that's available on the 5 pin plug (the one with the thick white and the red/black wire).
There really are many ways you can do this. My preference depends on what car is being wired up. With something that never had EFI the preference is to use new aftermarket relays and relay bases to perform all the required functions. With a car that had EFI the preference is to reuse as many of the factory parts as possible.
On the AE86 you could use the EFI relay to run the ECU and supply for the circuit opening relay (fuel pump), and you could use the Engine Main Relay to run the injector and ignitor power supply, but these two will also run fine off the B-O wire that supplied the original ignition coil.... You could also add a starter relay to the starter solenoid - not strictly necessary but a very good idea. Many ways to skin a cat, depends on what level of detail and refinement you want to go to.

9. Does anyone have a pinout/wiring diagram for the AE86 fuse box? and possibly of where those large alternator wires go.

Yes, but not scanned. I'll see what I can do over the week to get some stuff scanned and posted up.

I would appreciate if anyone could help me out here, such as providing information, tips and such. I have searched the forums but apparently nothing shows up which is what I am looking for, sorry if this has already been covered but I just couldn't find it.

This is fairly standard type stuff, but generally few people cover it in this much detail, so it's a good thread to continue

P.S. I am wiring this at almost 2 in the morning and well if there are any spelling errors or things that don't make sense, that would be the reason .

Other than wire colours it seems fine to me

Mos.

[Golberg]

Well Mos there absolutely smashed that one out, there isn't much more I can add.

I guess what I can say is that no.6 is that is the aircon compressor clutch wire.

[xXxPigeonKickerxXx]

Thank You Mos and Golberg for replying, although some things still aren't quite clear to me so here goes:

Some of this sounds correct, some of it doesn't.
The 100A ALT fuse should be between the battery and the alternator. The alternator also supplies other circuits, ie one will go straight to the chassis, another probably should go through the AM1 fuse to the ignition switch and possibly another might go to the engine bay fusebox. What complicates things is that the AE86 circuit only uses two fuses - AM1 and AM2, whereas the AE92 uses AM1, AM2 and ALT. On the AE86 the AM1 fuse performs the function of the AE92 ALT fuse.
It will be a lot easier to understand once I scan some of the AE86 docs.

On the AE86 the alternator output goes to:
Engine bay fusebox (as below).
Heater fan (passenger side).
Ignition switch AM1 circuit and driver's side kick panel fusebox.

So what I get so far is that the B+ terminal on the alternator should go to the 100A ALT fuse and the second cable should go directly to the white wire under the fuse box? I don't get where or how the heater fan is connected to the ALT B+ output nor how it goes to the AM1 circuit/drivers side kick panel fuse box. Is it the white wire which I said previously that goes to the chassis loom?

The R-B wire will goes through a fusible link (a thinner piece of wire that acts like a fuse) to power some circuits within the engine bay fusebox. These circuits are: HORN-HAZ, RADION NO.1, EFI, Headlight relay (and fuses).
The White wire (which does come off the alternator directly) powers the only the Engine Main Relay which powers the Engine fuse (which only ever powered the alternator and the fuel cut solenoid in the carby). The engine main relay is also connected through to the big 30A Fan fuseholder in the engine bay fusebox but this circuit is not used in an AE86.

Also the R-B wire which you said goes through a fusible link does this mean that if I don't have a fusible link that I would have to fuse it? if yes do I connect it to the AM1/AM2 fuse or do I just put on a new fuse holder and what rating fuse should I use.

The ignition switch has two circuits - AM1,ACC,IG1,ST1, and AM2,IG2,ST2. The B-R wire supplies the AM2 side through the AM2 fuse directly off the battery.
(The AM1 side is supplied off the AM1 fuse).

So this wire was wired up correctly I guess and it should go to the AM2 fuse? Do you know what colour wire is the AM1 wire or was it that white one that went to the chassis loom? Do you know what the AM1,ACC,IG1,ST1 and the AM2,IG2 and ST2 wires look like or what devices they are connected to, from what you said previously about the red wire with the eye connector on the end is the ST2 circuit for the coil on start up, is there any other things connected to this circuit?

This is actually Black/Orange, not black brown. This is a high current ignition output that ran the ignition coil (through the coil resistor) on the 4AC. It can safely be used to provide power to the ignition coil and injectors of a 4AGE.

Im guessing this is possibly a IG1 or IG2 circuit and receives power when the key is in the ON position and does not require a separate power source, as right now I have it wire up to my Ignition relay along with the ignition coil, ignitor and check engine B+ connector. Does this wire come off the barrel switch or a relay? Also if you could please provide a short rundown of everything that goes to the ALT, AM1 and AM2 fuse.

Some of this stuff is confusing as I don't know where it goes what its for or what kind of function it has. I would really appreciate it if anyone could provide more information on this issue, wiring diagrams would be appreciated.

Cheers, David

[parrot]

That's a real mess.

If you go here you will find the detailed wiring diagrams which may help you work out some of your problems. Bear in mind the ADM wiring loom is very different to 4AGE loom

[xXxPigeonKickerxXx]

That's a real mess.

If you go here you will find the detailed wiring diagrams which may help you work out some of your problems. Bear in mind the ADM wiring loom is very different to 4AGE loom

Thanks For the diagrams Parrot, Cheers man

[xXxPigeonKickerxXx]

Quote:
Originally Posted by xXxPigeonKickerxXx
7. During my rewiring of the EFI/Ignition wires there was a wire which is Black with a Brown Stripe which comes from the body loom, and goes to a switched power source (Key in ON position) I know this as it is the same for the injectors, ignition and ignition coil. Does anyone know where it goes? or what it is for?

"This is actually Black/Orange, not black brown. This is a high current ignition output that ran the ignition coil (through the coil resistor) on the 4AC. It can safely be used to provide power to the ignition coil and injectors of a 4AGE".

Do you know how much power/current this wire can handle? as in how much things can I power off it, I was hoping that it would be able to run at least the ignition coil, Ignitor and the B+ terminal on the check connector. Also when you say it used to power the ignition coil through a coil resistor does this mean the R-O wire has a resistor inline already or are you referring to the ballast resistor on the coil, and this would mean that the B-O wire comes directly of the ignition switch. Or would it be better just to run new relays for the ignition system?


Thank You
Cheers, David

[Mos]

Do you know how much power/current this wire can handle? as in how much things can I power off it, I was hoping that it would be able to run at least the ignition coil, Ignitor and the B+ terminal on the check connector.

No, the B-O is NOT for the B+ terminal in the check connector - the B+ terminal is the same as B+ of the ECU - ie the output of the EFI relay.
The B+ in the check connector doesn't do anything itself unless you jumper something in the check connector. The B-O wire will supply enough current, but it's not technically correct.

Also when you say it used to power the ignition coil through a coil resistor does this mean the R-O wire has a resistor inline already or are you referring to the ballast resistor on the coil, and this would mean that the B-O wire comes directly of the ignition switch. Or would it be better just to run new relays for the ignition system?

The B-O does come directly off the ignition switch and goes to the ballast resistor, which then goes to the coil - it doesn't have another resistor anywhere.
You would be better off running new relays - once again, depends on what level of refinement you want to go to. It would be more technically correct to run a dedicated relay for the ignitor, coil and injectors from the battery through a 30A fuse - some cars do this from factory, others run it through the ignition switch.

Some of this stuff is confusing as I don't know where it goes what its for or what kind of function it has. I would really appreciate it if anyone could provide more information on this issue, wiring diagrams would be appreciated.

I won't answer them specifically but I'll try to cover everything in this bit.
Page 12 of http://files.aeu86.org/manuals/ewd-a..._au-parrot.pdf
AM2 fuse, B-R, goes directly from the battery terminal to the ignition switch AM2 circuit.
Supplies ST1 - B-W (Starter signal, Page 14, 18), IG1 - B-Y (Defog, ECU-IG, Turn, Wiper, Gauge), ACC - L-R (Radio No 2, Cig).

AM1 fuse, W, goes everywhere (ok, not helpful ).
Engine bay Fusebox - plug 2E, pin 3 is the white wire that supplies the engine bay fusebox. (Page 13 has all the plug diagrams and pin numbers).
Passenger side white wire - plug F, pin1, on the passenger side kick panel fusebox goes to the heater relay in the passenger side kick panel fusebox.
Driver side white wire, driver side kick panel fusebox - plug 1B, pins 2 and 5. Pin 2 supplies the 15A stop fuse, pin 5 supplies the Dome fuse and Taillight relay, and supplies plug 1F, pin 1 which supplies the AM1 circuit of the ignition switch.
Not shown on page 12, but this white wire is also connected to the Alternator, and regulator, but you need to look at page 16 for that information (Charging System). Toyota wiring diagrams are bad in that way - you need to peruse the entire book to determine where something might go (which is why I find it easier to work off the loom itself rather than the diagrams - I only use the diagrams as a check).

Going back to the AM2 circuit of the ignition switch page 12 doesn't tell use everything - it shows a 7.5A IGN fuse which powers the Engine Main Relay (through plug 2C, pin 1 of the engine bay fusebox). Now if you look at page 18 you will notice that the EFI Main Relay No1 is also powered by the 7.5A IGN fuse through plug 2C, pin 1 of the engine bay fuse box (this means that the engine main relay, and efi main relay no1 in the engine bay fusebox are turned on together).
You need to go to other pages to see that the rest of the AM2 circuit of the ignition switch does - IG2 B-O on page 14 goes to the ignition coil (through the ballast resistor), and on page 18 it powers the injectors through the EFI Main Relay No2 (JDM AE86 only, not ADM).
ST2 R on page 14 shows it powering the ignition coil, but it also connects to the noise suppression capacity (shown on some of your photos, thinner red wire).

The difference with the AE92 is that the AM1 fuse powers the AM1 circuit of the ignition switch only, whereas the ALT fuse takes care of the rest. The function of the ALT fuse is to fuse the battery from the alternator, and this fuse supplies current in different directions depending on the operating conditions of the engine.

Here's some circuits showing the variations of how the ALT, AM1, AM2 fuses/circuits are used. Essentially what you have is two power supplies - the battery and the alternator - separated by a fuse (AE86 - AM1; AE92, etc - ALT) supplying a multitude of circuits.
The thing to keep in mind when choosing where to power accessories from is what is the major supply? IE high current draws such as fans, ABS motors, etc, generally only run when the engine is on, so they are supplied directly off the alternator rather than the battery. On other hand, the EFI supplies come off the battery side.


Mos.

[Chrisso]

If you have a close look at the fuse box you will probably be able to see numbers next to the pins. you will find that there are a few pins with the same number. These pins are connected, so by feeding power to one you feed it to all. That's what Mos is getting to. I think the original ADM AE86 fuse box has the numbering on the top (where you plug the fuses in), other fuseboxes have them underneath where you plug the wires in.

I know you pain, I recently put a newer fusebox in my sprinter. Might be an ae92 one, can't remember. Very different layout and it took me a while to work out what went where. Don't know if I was successful though, going to try and start it this weekend.

Chris

[xXxPigeonKickerxXx]

Thanks Mos, Chris

Hopefully I should be able to wire it up all correctly thanks to your help.

I do however have more questions, I was thinking that I should put it in here rather than make a new thread as its quite similar. Anyways there is a wire on the AE92 - 4AGE ECU for a connection to the brake switch, previously this was not connected and just left hanging there. Does anyone know why the ECU would need a brake signal or the purpose of this, as I have already extended it to the other side of the car just waiting to be wired up. Also if I was to wire this up which wire on the brake swtch do I wire it up to IIRC there was 2 wires on the switch itself, does it require a positive signal or a negative signal as the Diagrams did not say.

Also on the ECU there is a "BATT" wire which is Red-Yellow which is supposed to go to the 12v from the 15A Stop Fuse, previously it was just wired up to the constant 12v before the EFI relay (universal relay) but on the same line as the ECU B and B1 wires, does this wire NEED to be from the STOP fuse or can I just run it from some other power source however, I have already routed the wires which require the STOP fuse power, CEL, Speed Sensor, and stop switch.

I wanted to have a check engine light but in order to have it I would have to connect up the Speed sensor, I think I read somewhere Im not sure if it was on this forum but on the ADM cluster there is a speed signal output that would hook up to this ECU pin, does anyone have any conformation on this.

Also what I'm still unsure of is if I should run 2 new relays for the EFI and Ignition, or just one relay for both Ignition and EFI, I was thinking of running seperate relays and I have fitted in 3 new cables 2 which are rated at 25 amps which I was thinking should be for EFI and one for Ignition, and also one which I believe is rated for probably 10 amps or so which I was hoping to use for the alarm and central locking but I was thinking this might be too small, also with a VL fuel pump I thought the current draw would be too high to run a single relay for both EFI and Ignition. I would like to hear your thoughts on this.

And a final question is unrelated but does anyone know how much a brand new stock 4AGE fuel regulator might cost?, as the previous owner installed a Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator but I think its un-needed and since it looks to be a low quality unit I wouldn't want fuel leaking everywhere. But right now its got a VL fuel pump which is very loud and un-stocklike, I was thinking of changing it to a stock intank setup from an AE82 using the fuel pump and fuel pump bracket but modified to be longer so it reaches closer to the bottom of the tank. IS the in tank pump the only fuel pump in an AE82 or is this just a lift pump.

Sorry for the long read, and long sentences but I just need clarification and help one some things. Whoops, and one more thing how do I give out reps?

Thanks
Cheers, David

[xXxPigeonKickerxXx]

anybody? I would appreciate any info.

Cheers, David

[Mos]

Sorry, I forgot to reply in detail over the weekend - I'll try to sometime today but can't do it right now.

[Mos]

Thanks Mos, Chris
Hopefully I should be able to wire it up all correctly thanks to your help.

No problemo.

I do however have more questions, I was thinking that I should put it in here rather than make a new thread as its quite similar. Anyways there is a wire on the AE92 - 4AGE ECU for a connection to the brake switch, previously this was not connected and just left hanging there. Does anyone know why the ECU would need a brake signal or the purpose of this, as I have already extended it to the other side of the car just waiting to be wired up. Also if I was to wire this up which wire on the brake swtch do I wire it up to IIRC there was 2 wires on the switch itself, does it require a positive signal or a negative signal as the Diagrams did not say.

I don't know exactly what the ECU does with this signal but I have always hooked it up. Conversely many people have never hooked it up and the engine runs "fine". I have spoken to a few people who initially did not hook it up, and the engine would do funny things when coming to an abrupt stop - like the engine appearing to die then stumble back to life - and then they hooked it up and those "funny" things stopped happening. If you have the time, hook it up.

The brake switch supplies the brake lights, so one side of the switch has power from the STOP fuse, and the other side goes to the brake lights - the ECU needs to see the signal going to the brake lights (if you hook it up the fuse side it will always be 12V and the ECU will always think you're on the brake).
This signal is what's called active high, or active positive - ie the signal of interest is high or positive, rather than low or negative.
The diagrams might not directly tell you, but the information is contained in them sometimes - for instance page 44 of http://files.aeu86.org/manuals/ewd-a..._au-parrot.pdf shows the fuse on one side of the switch, and the lights on the other side of the switch. From this diagram you can deduce what the voltage are in what states of the switch.

Also on the ECU there is a "BATT" wire which is Red-Yellow which is supposed to go to the 12v from the 15A Stop Fuse, previously it was just wired up to the constant 12v before the EFI relay (universal relay) but on the same line as the ECU B and B1 wires, does this wire NEED to be from the STOP fuse or can I just run it from some other power source however, I have already routed the wires which require the STOP fuse power, CEL, Speed Sensor, and stop switch.

It doesn't *need* to be the STOP fuse, it's just where they put it on the sprinter. Pretty much every other car uses the EFI fuse for that but for some reason on the sprinter engine bay fusebox they didn't allow for that.
CEL and Speed sensor does not need STOP fuse power - you shouldn't be hooking them up to that fuse... STOP fuse is always active, CEL and speed sensor should be coming of an ignition on fuse... from memory the GAUGE fuse is appropriate for this (page 63).

I wanted to have a check engine light but in order to have it I would have to connect up the Speed sensor, I think I read somewhere Im not sure if it was on this forum but on the ADM cluster there is a speed signal output that would hook up to this ECU pin, does anyone have any conformation on this.

That is correct - the ADM cluster does have a speed sensor - from memory it is accessed through the two screws at the back of the speedo (one of them might say 4P on the pcb, or a Japanese symbol - can't remember...).

Also what I'm still unsure of is if I should run 2 new relays for the EFI and Ignition, or just one relay for both Ignition and EFI, I was thinking of running seperate relays and I have fitted in 3 new cables 2 which are rated at 25 amps which I was thinking should be for EFI and one for Ignition, and also one which I believe is rated for probably 10 amps or so which I was hoping to use for the alarm and central locking but I was thinking this might be too small, also with a VL fuel pump I thought the current draw would be too high to run a single relay for both EFI and Ignition. I would like to hear your thoughts on this.

EFI and injectors/coil (I presume that's what you mean by ignition) should be somewhat separated, as the injectos and coil are highly pulsed loads which makes the power supply "dirty" for sensitive electronics. The engine will run if you hook them up off the same power supply, but it's better not to. For this reason, I suggest using the factory EFI relay for EFI, and add a relay for the injectos/coil - a 2JZ and a 1UZ run 30A fuses for the injectors/coils which a 4A is unlikely to exceed, so if you build a 25A circuit it will be fine.

The AE86 EFI circuit is factory fused at 15A - normally the pump runs through this circuit as well. I had a VL pump and a JDM 4AGE running without a problem through this 15A fused circuit. You can run a separate circuit for the fuel pump, and in circumstances where a lift pump and a high flow pump is used this would be recommended. A Walbro JZA80 replacement draws 9A continously but I don't have measurements for other pumps.

The 10A circuit for the alarm and central locking should be OK. I can't remember what the fuse on the jaycar central locking kits is, but whatever comes with the kit works fine and the power supply cable is not thick.
Central locking is not a continous load, so you can get away with running a thinner cable - cable ratings are basically along the lines of "how long it takes to melt" so central locking would have a different requirement to something like a fuel pump which runs all the time.
Alarms generally draw little current, other than when they're alarming. The indicator circuit will probably draw around 7A which will be the highest load - it might be a problem when you activate the central locking at the same time, but then I have never measured the central locking current, so it might work ...
In my case both the alarm and the central locking were powered off the driver's footwell fusebox, through some of the unused fuses, off a high current supply.

And a final question is unrelated but does anyone know how much a brand new stock 4AGE fuel regulator might cost?, as the previous owner installed a Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator but I think its un-needed and since it looks to be a low quality unit I wouldn't want fuel leaking everywhere. But right now its got a VL fuel pump which is very loud and un-stocklike, I was thinking of changing it to a stock intank setup from an AE82 using the fuel pump and fuel pump bracket but modified to be longer so it reaches closer to the bottom of the tank. IS the in tank pump the only fuel pump in an AE82 or is this just a lift pump.

No idea on cost of new reg - PM "The Real Roadrunner" as he may have a surplus one somewhere.
Very few cars have factory lift pumps (I can't think of a single one). Pretty much every EFI car has a single pump that's mostly intank, but sometimes external. The AE82 only has the internal high pressure pump. You can install it into the AE86 tank, but keep in mind you will still fuel surge on tight corners with low fuel because it doesn't have bowls in the carby tank to keep the fuel near the pump.
If you mount the VL pump on enough rubbers it doesn't carry through the chassis and is only somewhat audible from outside the car.

Sorry for the long read, and long sentences but I just need clarification and help one some things. Whoops, and one more thing how do I give out reps?

The little scale icon in the top right of each post.

Mos.