Diff Question

[mlaser]

Hey All

Got a question for all you diff people. I'm still deciding whether to finish my ke25 project as i've just moved and didnt want to spend up to 2k on a diff upgrade just now. Recently i was speaking to a guy who had a 120y with a CA18DET which ran mid 12's and he replaced the 120y diff with a B1600 diff with a B2600 lsd centre in it, which was supposably 20mm wider on both sides (40mm total) than the 120y diff.

My ke25 currently has a 120y diff in it and a while back i heard that the 120y diff is not as wide as a ke25 diff. The mazda diffs have 31 spline axles as standard so it should be nice and strong. Will this work???????

Anyone care to comment?????

Cheers

[o_man_ra23]

I think getting a brake upgrade for the mazda diff will be a bitch. Also, these are 6 stud, so either a conversion to your chosen stud pattern, or a hard time finding wheels that fit will face you. I think you should tell us what stud pattern you want to run first. Also, what motor and what sort of power are you running?? If its a K motor, then a datto or similar diff should be able to handle this. Unless you have big power, i dont think the added weight of a ute diff will be necessary. You really need to tell us what this car will be capable of so we can assist you with what would work.

Cheers, Owen

[mlaser]

The project is a 4agte, blitz kkk26 turbo kit, haltech e6k, 7m injectors, w57 g/b so once built i'm hoping from 200-250hp atw. The reason i like the idea of the b1600 is if the info i have is correct it won't need to be shortened which makes the cost of the conversion a whole lot cheaper. I'm running magna slotted front discs (i think, conversion was already done, they are either magna or camry i think) so as long as the b1600 brakes aren't complete poo it should still pull up alright. As for stud pattern i was thinking i would just change them back to 4 stud, as i've already got a nice set of 14" 2 piece jap rims on her. Previously i was thinking of doing a hilux diff conversion which when i got it quoted up in brisbane was going to cost anywhere from 2000 to 2500 for a drive in drive out conversion. So with the b1600 i should be able to get away with it for around 1000 i reckon, which means i could finish the job as apposed to waiting till i could afford the extra 1500 for the hilux. So yeah thats the project, so far all that is left is zaust, cooler, diff and dyno tune. I can probably afford another 3500 so i'm hoping to get the above 4 things done for that sort of price range in order to finish it this year.

Cheers

[stradlater]

That's true mate, the hilux diff conversion will cost you more, but it'll be more versatile. You'll be able to get more brake combinations for it, and I can say personally from experience that they are freaking unbreakable. Plus there's more than a few rotors running atleast 9's on them. So I think you're better off with a hilux. I'd go with the slightly more money option frankly.

But then again, I had the money.

[mlaser]

yeah the hilux would be a nice upgrade, but cost is an issue, im driving around in a rusty ke25 at the moment and it's a case of either spending some dollars on that to get the rust repaired cause it's got a chance of bein a bit illegal or trying to get the other ke25 on the road asap. The b1600 just seems to be the only diff out there that might not need to be cut down to fit which obviously is a huge bonus and strong enough to handle the power as it's been used in alot of rotors from what i've found. Also i've read the bravo has 12" drums which should be ample for a sub 900kg car.

Just trying to find out if its a viable option really, it's also something different

[o_man_ra23]

I used to own a B1500 (almost identical to the 1600), and I must say, I didnt find the diff to be noticably narrower than an RN2X diff. What hilux diff did you get quoted for?? check out the RN2X series diff, as they may be narrow enough for your likings. But yeah, much more versatile in the way of gear ratios and LSD centres.

Cheers, Owen

[Norbie]

Both the Hilux diff and B1600 diff are overkill for a 4A, even with a turbo. They're big and heavy too, and all that unsprung mass is bad news for handling, especially in a light car.

IMO you're better off using something a bit smaller. Something like an R31 Skyline (Borg Warner) or MS112 Crown (F series) would be more than capable of taking the power, they already have disc brakes, and the R31 is already the correct stud pattern. LSD's are easily available for both as well.

Seriously, putting a light truck diff in a 1.6L Corolla is a bit silly...

[mlaser]

fair call norbie, like i said i've not been able to find any real info about the b1600 other than the fact that someone used one in a 120y. I've just been trying to find a diff that might not have needed to be cut down to fit a ke25 (most likely impossible) in order to save some dollars

[o_man_ra23]

Mate, if i were you i would look at getting an F series cut down. They are easy to get LSD for and easy to get the 4*114.3 stud pattern and disc brake(ST141 corona brakes bolt up) too. Could be well worth looking into, as they are a much lighter diff. BUT, with the stud pattern, what stud are your rims, as i believe the KE2x stud was something like 4*100 PCD.

Check that too, but i would say that the truck diff is overkill, as Norbie sed. I would advise against a Bog Warmer, as their LSD packs are prone to failure, and they are a rear feed diff, which means to lash the gearset is a full on pain up the arse as you need to shim it. I have had to do this before when i was working at a ford wrecker, and it took a much LOOONGER time than doing a front fed diff such as toyota diffs or 9" which take minutes to lash properly.

Cheers, Owen

[Norbie]

I could be wrong but I think the KE2x is 4x114.3; it was the KE1x that had the smaller stud pattern.

[oldcorollas]

KE20 had both actually but most had 4x110mm

what about volvo diff, ie Dana... just another option.

F series is probably good match between weight and strength.

[o_man_ra23]

Stu, after playing under volvos lately, i think their diffs would come under the heavy category. Plus if he does have 114.3 stud then the F series can be obtained with no requirement to modify this.

Cheers, Owen

[oldcorollas]

true, heavy but abusable and cheap too...
Toycrash has one in his KE25 (albeit with a little wider track).
i suppose it is a slightly cheaper option than a G series, but after shortening (if needed) not by much..

the later model alloy housing Danas look interesting to my project tho... G series toughness in a bit less weight?

hm... i need to look into F series more.... any with AE86 width?

[Shifty]

Buy a bike... under 5 grand and you'll run easy 10's. Problem solved.

But seriously, I agree with the others guys... scratch the idea of a big diff like the B-series. Maybe just buy a couple of 120y diffs?

[Norbie]

hm... i need to look into F series more.... any with AE86 width?

MX13 MkII is 1410mm F series, which I think is spot on for an AE86?