TA22 strength questions

[Sparkys]

I'd like to fit an SR20DET to my TA22 and I'm working out the logistics/budget now.

1. Am I better off getting a custom bellhousing made and using the original TA22 driveline?

2. Or are the standard TA22 (2T motor) gearbox, tailshaft, diff and driveshafts strong enough to handle the 160 or so kilowatts the Nissan motor will put out?

3. Or am I better off getting a custom tailshaft made and using the Nissan gearbox and another diff?

I'm not familiar with the TA22's strength's/weaknesses yet

Edit: due to spelling error in heading

[YLD-16L]

1. No

2. Not strong enough unless you plan to baby it around with the thought of breakage in the back of your mind everytime you give it a boot full. Some people have luck with the diffs lasting a while with 150kw+ but I wouldn't chance it. Just do it right the first time and fit an f-series, g-series or other similar strength diff. Save some hassle too by picking a diff with decent discs already fitted.

3. This is the only option in my opinion unless you like doing things several times and breaking things regularly

Factor in bigger brakes on the front, a fuel system suitable for EFI, exhaust, engineers report etc etc.

[Kedderz]

First - your murdering a ta22 by putting in a sr, that out the way heres some answers;
I run 140rwkw through my ra23 stock rear end. Its a T series as yours maybe, you may have a d series depending on the age of the car. It will handle the power as long as you arent agressive on launches or smashing it through the gears all the time.
Diff upgrades commonly to the f series require custom tail shafts or auto shafts shortened to suit.
You wont be able to run the 2t gear box, it will require a custom bellhousing and it will break in the first 5 minutes of driving. Better to use the nissan box + custom gearbox x member and tshaft.

[Baref00t]

(And that you'd be better off with a tweaked CA18DET)

I did a fair amount of research into it, and there's a few threads on SR20/CA18 conversions into TA22s on this board...

[YLD-16L]

First - your murdering a ta22 by putting in a sr

Pppfff they're readily available and reasonably cheap, make reasonable power quite easily, after market parts a-plenty, the 5spd box is plenty strong and has a nice shift feel, just a pity they sound like arse.

They're not that bad an idea for an old school car. CA18's are a good option too, just less aftermarket support as it's even older.

I run 140rwkw through my ra23 stock rear end. Its a T series as yours maybe

My car (lighter than a RA23) snapped 2 axles after 2 hours of normal driving and one run at Eastern Creek. The next set of axles lasted one weekend at Summernats. Then the diff got turfed for something much stronger - should have just gone straight to the big unit to begin with.

That was was 150ish rwkw and stuff all torque.

So those diffs last fine as long as you never plan to have any fun in your car

[Kedderz]

Personal opinions are like arseholes

RE track comment, yes thats why ive gone the f series and truetrak unit so I can have fun.

[TheToyman75]

Sparky,

The SR20 swap in an old school celica is becoming a more common swap since Toyota don't have a current RWD Turbo 4 thats well supported. I certainly wouldn't bother with a CA18DET - Sure they are a good old engine but if i had to pick between a CA18DET and a 3T-GTE I'd deffinalty go with the 3T-GTE and not just for ease of fitment.

But anyway, You will deffinatly need to upgrade your gearbox and hence change/modify the tailshaft. Yes you could run the stock diff. BUT only if you drive like Nanna AND use the factory 1 piece tailshaft and have the yoke changed.

The factory 1 piece tailshaft is rubber filled and acts as a impact buffer for the diff, there is actually no steel connectingthe front and rear of the tailshaft. With a stock tailshaft the diff has a good lifespan. With a custom tailshaft you remove this buffer and your diff will be on very borrowed time.

[Sparkys]

Thanks for all your advice. I suspected I might get some answers saying "Don't you dare go Nissan", but my rational for going SR was much like YDL-16L's thoughts

YDL,

I've allowed approximately $1000 for bigger brakes front and rear, $700 for a fuel system including surge tank, new pump and lines, and $1500 for an engineers report. Is that doable?

Toyman,

the 3T-GTE was a motor that has crossed my mind, I actually went and had a look at one last week that had already been fitted to a TA22, and had a new surge tank, ECU, fuel pumps, gearbox, diff etc but I have also found out that parts are as rare as hens teeth, hence the SR ideas.

Since I have no intention of driving like a nana, I will budget for a new diff/custom tailshaft. How much money is reasonable to allow? I would like something that can support approximately 150-200rwkw in the future.

Kedderz,

Yes, everyone has got one

[Baref00t]

The problem with the Nissan swap-in, particularly with the SR is it will require some 'massaging' of the trans tunnel/firewall to fit the gearbox in.

The most expensive ticket item may well turn out to be the engineers certificate at the end, unless you've got some good contacts (that was actually what turned me off my plans for the CA)

[Sparkys]

Ah, I wondered if that might be the case. Does the shifter sit any further back on the SR? I can do a little 'massaging' of the tunnel no problems, I have contacts for that

I have no contacts for an engineers certificate unfortunately.....do you know of anyone good?

[Baref00t]

The way I measured it out the shifter was going to be a couple of inches back, and no, I couldn't find anyone for engy's cert that came personally recommended by people I trust... There's probably someone on here with decent advice though?

[Sparkys]

A couple of inches isn't too much, the stock shifter sits pretty far forward anyway.....cheers for the info anyway!

[YLD-16L]

I've allowed approximately $1000 for bigger brakes front and rear, $700 for a fuel system including surge tank, new pump and lines, and $1500 for an engineers report. Is that doable?

You've got a number of options for a brake upgrade, check the forums for what other people have done on TA22's and decide which way you want to go. I think your budget will be fine for just the front brakes but for front and rear done well (i.e. new rotors, caliper rebuild kits, new flexible brake lines etc) it might be tight or not quite enough.

I'd recommend deciding what the brakes will need to deal with (anticipated use) and then work out a budget because even a simple brake package done properly can add up. Do you just want adequate street performing brakes that will pass an engineers cert or do you plan to hit the track?

I put together a Corona Hilux Peugeot package for a mate and it is a neat package that would be good on a TA22 (my mate has doen the odd track day with no issues), the engineer will be happy with it too.

Corona strut (I used MX32 struts with hubs) - $50
LN106 Hilux calipers - $180
Caliper rebuild kit - $60
New brake lines - $80
New rotors - $180 (getting hard to source in my area)
New pads - $80
Shock absorbers for new struts - $120
Master cylinder with larger bore (we used a Camry unit) - $120
+ new wheel bearings and seals, paint, brake fluid etc.

Total of the above ~$870. Some things can be had for more or less but most prices are pretty standard for average run of the mill level items. Go a bit more upmarket in the pads, rotors, shocks and the price will rise rapidly. So you can see, if you do all the work yourself $1000 will quickly disappear.

Then you have to consider things like spring perch fitment/relocation or coilover sleeves if needed, are you going to shorten the strut body (wasn't necessary on the MX32 strut but you'd need to check on the RT142 strut length). All that adds up and we haven't even looked at rear brakes yet

Your fuel system budget looks fine.

Engineers budget looks about right these days.

Since I have no intention of driving like a nana, I will budget for a new diff/custom tailshaft. How much money is reasonable to allow? I would like something that can support approximately 150-200rwkw in the future.

Depends on which diff you choose to some degree. You'll have the diff purchase price, if it doesn't come with an LSD centre then add the price of that, if it comes with drums, then add the price of disc conversion (may be a simple bolt on option from a disc braked model or may need to be custom?) (if you want them), add the price of a brake overhaul for either disc of drum setup (crazy to run all new gear and old brakes with unknown service history). Then it'll need to be shortened and have all the mounting brackets welded on.

Most people who walk in to a diff shop and want a drop off drive out diff and tailshaft conversion don't get much/any change from $2500. Some places will do it cheaper or if you source all the parts/they use cheaper or more expensive parts, don't need brake conversion etc that's alter the price too.

So many variables that alter the cost

[IN 05 NT]

use a volvo 240/740/760 diff, strong as an F series, if not stronger, already has large disc brakes,

everything else has been covered

[Smokey228]

Like blake already said...

Cheap as chips for the volvo diff, common as fart, has disk brakes and will be plenty strong for the sr20...

And i say go for the sr20, i know its cross breading a lil, but man, they are common, cheap, and make plenty of power with off the shelf stuff... And when they go pop, couple hundred will replace it easily, or a 1000$ and you can get yourself some off the shelf goodies to rebuild it with

Cheers,
Jase