RA28 Help

[rancidpunk]

I was planning on it to be a fairly slow process, mostly because of the expense. What kind of suspension is recommened and will get passed by an engineer? As for rust do you mean rust in structural components in the car? These questions might sound stupid sorry but I'm completely green in the scale of things, this will be a huge learning curve for me...but that's a big reason I want to do it.

[TheToyman75]

I was planning on it to be a fairly slow process, mostly because of the expense. What kind of suspension is recommened and will get passed by an engineer? As for rust do you mean rust in structural components in the car? These questions might sound stupid sorry but I'm completely green in the scale of things, this will be a huge learning curve for me...but that's a big reason I want to do it.

RancidPunk,

We all started somewhere so I wouldn't worry to much about asking stupid questions. Rust in any part of the vehicle needs to be monitored but yes anything structual is obviously the worst.

With your upgrades you really need to try ad decide what the end result is going to be, I know this is difficult at teh start of a project as it will grow and change with time but you at least need a plan of direction. If you don't know where your headed youwill never get there.

Your suspension needs will vary depending on what else your doing with the car, especially brakes and diff choices. If youthink your going to stay on the path of a 1G or similar turbo charged engine it is going to need a brake upgrade and allot of the time, changing the front brakes means changing the stuts and hence you need the suspension to suit the struts your brakes need. Not the ones you have now.

Personally I recomend spending a little extra if you can afford it and get yourself a set of the RT132 front struts and a coil over set up (The RT132 is a liftback Corona) These are the struts you need for the common pug/hilux brake upgrade that is cost effective and works well. The factory Corona brakes on this model are quite good and you can use them in the short term. Alternatly you can just get a set of king springs in low or superlow (I recommend the Super low) and a good shock abosrber insert (I prefer the koni adjustables butthey are pricey)

For the rears a set of king springs and some good scocks is all you need. when you do the diff conversion you can easily fir the Celica spring platforms and shock mounts anyway so you can retain the "stock" replacement parts.

Starting with the suspension is a good option ad when $$$ allow I suggest replacing all the underbody suspension bushes as part of this process.

[rancidpunk]

OK, I think I'd rather use the king springs because I was intending to lower it a bit anyway, but where does that leave me with the whole brake situation? From a very quick look on the net it looks like parts for the suspension will cost me optimistically around $500 but I have a feeling I'm very wrong. When I do transplant the diff is there any diff/brake package that is good? Just figure if I can kill 2 birds with one stone that'd be the smarter way to go.

[thomasbl]

Search around on these forums. There are a few good threads about hilux and volvo dana 30 diff conversions into ra28's. The vovlo is arguably the more cost effective option. There is also a good thread on hilux, peugot, corona front brake upgrades. Have a look at other members rides. I have the above mentioned front brake setup on mine at the moment. Its good, reasonably cheap and not too hard to do.

[river]

Hi,

Suspension can cost a lot, depending on how far you want to go.

I got the lowered springs and shocks etc that Rod is talking about on Trini and I also got new bushes throughout. Even though she still runs the skinny cheese-cutter wheels, she handles like a dream. I also got a thicker front sway bar and a rear sway bar. Also the steering idler and Jana Pitman arm were done, as the steering wears out over time and it is always good to get it done at the same time.

All up, around $2k and that was at a good price. So, expect a tad more than that to get your entire suspension upgraded.Add a few more dollars to get your steering checked and worn parts replaced. If you are doing a brake upgrade, then add more money. If you are doing a larger diff, then add more money again.

It's not cheap, eh? And you haven't even got to the engine, gearbox or any rust/body work,let alone wheels and tyres!

But trust me, whether you go for more power or not, a good suspension upgrade is worthwhile. The car will handle wonderfully and sit well on the road, which, from a safety perspective, is necessary.

seeyuzz
river

[rancidpunk]

I think my plan of attack might be as follows

-Body work, mostly structural, this shouldn't be too hard 'cos there's a crazy old russian engineer up here who pretty much lets you name your price. (Once got quoted $600 to fix a but of rust in my floorpan, took it to him, paid $40.)

-Suspension - Low king springs with (if i can afford it adujusable shockers)

-30 dana diff, I'm not really concerened with the extra weight, I'm not gonna race her or anything and I don' t think I really have the need for lsd.

Is this diff hard to mount? What needs to be modified/fabricated? Does the stock taildshaft fit or does it need to be shortened/replaced?

-Front brakes, if I've gone for king springs, the RT132 transplant isn't really an option, plus I figure if I've used a volvo diff/brakes then I'd end up with two different stud patterns which wouldn't be fun.

In light of this what can I do with the front brakes that's fairly simple?

Then I can start on the engine/gearbox? Which is a whole other story and a lot more saving!

[rancidpunk]

Just an edit, is the hilux diff conversion just as econmical? Is it a simpler job?

[TheToyman75]

Simon,

The Hilux diff you ideally want is an early series 1370 wide item which is rather difficult to locate. If you can find one then they are a good option and to be honest on a street car I don't see a need to upgrade the rear drums as they are a 10" drum anyway (The celica rear drum is only 9")

With your front struts and springs. If you haven't ordered the front king springs yet, get the RT132 struts and fit them with the king sprins to suit. You will be pulling the struts out to fit the springs anyway and the struts themselves should be quite affordable (complete with brakes of course) That way you upgrade again later form what you already have if you decide to.

[rancidpunk]

I'm assuming still going with the king springs & absorbers on the rear? Also are you recommending the RT132 strut conversion so when I put the king springs (and absorbers?)in I don't have to get the 28'
28's struts engineered?

[TheToyman75]

Simon,

The RT132 struts will give you better front brakes for now AND more importantly better front brake options in the future. Since you need to buy springs and shocks anyway buy them to suit the RT132 struts.

If you get complete RT132 stuts you will have the sumitomo callipers which are much nicer than the RA23 ones. They also have a solid brake line ot the calliper instead of the RA23 rubber line which won't perish reducing the number of places your brakes can fail as well as reducing the number of parts you probably need to replace

This has no effect on the rear which willwork well with the king springs and replacment shocks.

[rancidpunk]

Rightio how much am I looking at for the RT132? Including installation?

[timbosaurus]

Hey Rancid,

Please don't take this the wrong way Mate, but sometimes you've just gotta learn by doing/trying.

I know you're just trying to work out a plan right down to the last dollar to see if you can afford it, but you'll never be able to account for half of the money you seem to spend on cars.

Regarding the RT132 struts, no one can give you an accurate price. It will range from $30 a set (from someone with a wreck in their backyard, then you swap them yourself), to over $500 (You drop it off to a shop and say "find me a set of struts at a wreckers and fit them for me")


And neither the Volvo or the hilux diff will be "easy" compared to, say, swapping the RT132 struts. You'll need to remove the mounts from the celica diff, make/find a jig and have them fitted to the new housing. There's between $500 and $1000 worth of work there. If you do it yourself, watch for warping the housings.

You'll then use whichever springs you design the diff for, and the ride height will probably change slightly unless you get the spring mounts in the exact position.

Neither option will allow the standard tailshalft to bolt straight up either.

There's a lot of work/time/effort, even for someone experienced with conversions... so the sooner you start doing, the better...

Timbo

[timbosaurus]

And another note... all engineers (called authorised signatories in victoria) have different opinions. There ARE rules that they should follow, but there are many undefined areas and also a large difference in the interpretations of these rules.

So asking on here whether a particular modification can/can't, should/shouldn't, will/won't be able to be engineered is not the best approach. If there is anything you are unsure about, talk to a signatory. Some may be happy to approve the 1GGTE with the RT132 struts, but most won't... so you just have to try.

[RAd28]

rancidpunk - I've just been discussing the ins and outs of diffs this morning, and we came to the conclusion that I may be better off selling my Hilux diff, I've currently got it fitted in the car, all i need to go with it is a panhard rod.

The diff is complete but it still needs bearings and seals. I've spent a staggering amount on it so far because i got ripped off by the diff shops, but i'd be satisfied if i got $500 (+ freight) back for it. if your interested shoot me a PM...

Cheers

[timbosaurus]

jeez.... there's an offer you couldn't refuse!!!!