3tc wont start please help

[Cob604]

i got a timing light but i though it had to be running to use it

any way i tried rotating the dizzy today & it didnt even fire

thx

[jeffro ra28]

No, all you need is spark to check timing.
Get someone else to crank it while your checking the timing. Put white mark on the balancer mark.

[Cob604]

it cant be that far out if i ive done all that, & it doesnt even fire when i turn the dizzy right?
thx

[jeffro ra28]

lmao dude. timing could be out by less then 10 degrees and it wont run. Especially if something else is wrong.

Which way did you turn the dizzy? Do you even know if you advanced it or retarted it?

Dont skip the simple shit dude, you will have alot less drama's and have less things to look for when something goes wrong.

[oldcorollas]

exactly.. you've said it had good spark, that it was getting fuel (fuel level goes down) and we can probably assume it is getting air,.,.,

one of those things is wrong.

as jeffro said, simple, step by step. make sure you can confirm each thing is right, and then car will run, unless it is rooted.

do the compression test again.

check the timing by using the timing light when it is cranking (that will give you basic idea if it is even close)
chekc your leads again., check the plugs.
check you are getting spark to each plug.

then check fuel etc

you didn't use silicon sealant to seal the carby back up?

are you sure you put the jets in correct places? if you squirt WD40 from the tube, into the main and sec jets, does it come out the carby throat?
is the float level correct? is the float needle sticking.. et cet cetc

[Cob604]

yeah i tested each plug in each lead when i put new ones in all good spark

if im getting spark the leads must be alright
but im going to check them any way

no i didnt use silicon sealant, i just rebuilt it with the gaskets as it says in the rebuild kit & as it was when i pulled it off

jets are correct as 1 is chrome & the other is brass & i referred to the rebuild kit & it says chrme in primary (i think)

just to make sure the jets are at the bottom of the float bowl right & there is 2 of them & they are basically a bolt with a hole threw the middle right ???

the float level was correct then today it is a bit under the dot

the neede & seat are fine as its not flooding & it allows the right amount of fuel in

what other fuel checks can i do

thx

[Cob604]

lmao dude. timing could be out by less then 10 degrees and it wont run. Especially if something else is wrong.

Which way did you turn the dizzy? Do you even know if you advanced it or retarted it?

Dont skip the simple shit dude, you will have alot less drama's and have less things to look for when something goes wrong.

the dizzy was max retarted (as far clock wise as it could go)

& i slowely turned it anti clock wise to advance it & nothing

it looks right where it was as the rotor button had just started contacting the spark lead point in the top of the dizzy when the engine is at tdc

thx

[Born-Enthusiast]

Mate if you don't check the timing with a timing light and you are out you will never know and your engine being old and probably abused won't start. For example I built an engine from scratch and didn't check the timing properly. I did it exactly the way you are now. turned to TDC checked spark put in dizzy, all new parts turned over and only got crank, so naturally I played with it a little bit turning both ways as I was inexperienced. When I ended up getting it to start it was detonating off its head and when I got it fixed it was set over 25 degrees advanced. My engine had to be rebuilt. Just because it looks right doesn't mean it is. I know it getting frustrating as you've been trying to start this for a while. the best thing you can do for yourself is to systematically go through your system and check off things one by one.

Sounds stupid and a bit anal but you got to do it to solve your problem. So start with your pump. change it back to the mechanical. make sure your fuel leads aren't leaking and letting in air. check your points are intalled correctly, check your timing(with a light). check your leads, coil, condensor, jets ect ect ect. do it in a methodical fashion and get each one right before moving to the next.
If after you have checked everything is right and it's all as close to factory settings as you can get it and it still won't work you have to check other things like the internals. don't know exactly if it's possible or the affects it has. but you may have bent valve's? (it may be possible as out there it may be) or even a simple blown head gasket.

It is an old engine and you don't know what life it's had so don't expect it to just bolt and play. If you still can't find it's problem take your modified items and take to it with a really big hammer to relieve your tension then discard it on a scrap metal heap.

hope this helps.
Nathan

[oldcorollas]

yeah i tested each plug in each lead when i put new ones in all good spark
if im getting spark the leads must be alright
but im going to check them any way
no i didnt use silicon sealant, i just rebuilt it with the gaskets as it says in the rebuild kit & as it was when i pulled it off
jets are correct as 1 is chrome & the other is brass & i referred to the rebuild kit & it says chrme in primary (i think)
just to make sure the jets are at the bottom of the float bowl right & there is 2 of them & they are basically a bolt with a hole threw the middle right ???
the float level was correct then today it is a bit under the dot
the neede & seat are fine as its not flooding & it allows the right amount of fuel in
what other fuel checks can i do
thx

well, soudns good so far.
can you try to do the compression test again, with the coil disconnected, and the throttle held open?
then, check the timing with the timing light when the engine is cranking.

if too much fuel is getting in it could be flooded and woetting the plugs etc.

[Cob604]

The best thing you can do for yourself is to systematically go through your system and check off things one by one. ive gone throught almost everything i can think of on saturday i spent 2 hours standing there thinking & checking if everything else is right, i mustnt have been precise enough

Sounds stupid and a bit anal but you got to do it to solve your problem. So start with your pump. change it back to the mechanical. make sure your fuel leads aren't leaking and letting in air. check your points are intalled correctly, check your timing(with a light). check your leads, coil, condensor, jets ect ect ect. do it in a methodical fashion and get each one right before moving to the next.
alright ive got to get this out:
its got compression (process i checked it with wasnt right but it still reads enough to run)
its got spark ( spark from each lead)
its got engine timing (took rocker cover off & checked all valves move & in order 1342)
its its got fuel ( fuel in float)
its in neutral
all wires are attached that i can see
the fuel cut off thing has power
the battery is fully charged

all i can think of is:
water in fuel
air fuel mixture screw wrong
ignition timing not close enough
vaccum hoses arnconnected to right places

so next weekend im going to:
recharge battery again
buy a can of fuel & put it under the mechanical pump, hook up the mechanical pump,then feed the return line into a empty bowl to get the existing fuel out.
get someone around so i can jump start it, then flush the carby out with new fuel & mechanical pump while checking timing with timing light
screw mixture screw out 2 5/8 turns (as manual says)

then it can only be the carby or the vaccum hoses

If after you have checked everything is right and it's all as close to factory settings as you can get it and it still won't work you have to check other things like the internals. don't know exactly if it's possible or the affects it has. but you may have bent valve's? (it may be possible as out there it may be) or even a simple blown head gasket.if ive got compression the engine should be right & the guy i boght the car told me that he drove it off the trailer & then it sat for about 6 months turned every now & then

It is an old engine and you don't know what life it's had so don't expect it to just bolt and play. If you still can't find it's problem take your modified items and take to it with a really big hammer to relieve your tension then discard it on a scrap metal heap.
you done know who close i came to doing that today, & would have if i had my 1ggze wired up.
hope this helps.
Nathan

alright if you have time can you please list all the checks i can do

thx heaps

oldcorollas- yeah ill do the compression test again.
& ill check the ignition timing with a TLight

yeah i got told that at work & i pulled them all out today & they didnt look wet, but i wiped them down any way.

the old plugs were pitch black & dripping of fuel as i went crazy & poured 1 litre of fuel down the carby, but nothing

alright if you have time can you please list all the checks i can do

thx

[Born-Enthusiast]

the old plugs were pitch black & dripping of fuel as i went crazy & poured 1 litre of fuel down the carby, but nothing

Well you see there's your problem clear as day. ! litre is simply not enough you needed to pour 100 litres down the carby ha ha oh just jokes.
you still will get compression with a blown head gasket. And possibly with bent valve's not too sure. your compression seems to be very low I think you said all your chambers were under 120psi you have a serious engine problem and nothing you do to your carbies will help you.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...tc+compression

you should check these things. That compression result is a direct result from something internal. My suggestion for you would be to take off your oil cap and see if it's a milky white. if it is you have a blown gasket. Without a doubt. your compression is simply too low to be right

[oldcorollas]

yah but he had the throttle closed before so the results are meaningless..
if they go up with the throttle open.. might not be too bad

[Born-Enthusiast]

oh I didn't know the throttle being closed would affect it that much. however I kind of hope his gasket is blown that way we can say we solved the problem and he can have a working engine

[hemi twofifteen turbo]

so when you say it fires, you mean the engine runs for a few seconds like normal, or is it shaking like crazy as if several cylinders are down? Is you brake booster hose connected, that could explain the good compression on number 4 and the shit comp on the rest with the closed throttle comp test. Block every vaccuum hose that you dont know about. Also try putting a rag over the carby, sorta bunch it up to block a bit of it, try different amounts of coverage. it works as a super choke. If you can get it running enough to get a good vacuum up it can sometimes clear a jet if one is blocked etc, you never know.. The idle and other screws will not stop it from running, they will just make it run rought etc, so its not them. Try and keep it running for a minute or so using a spay bottle or even degreaser squirting constantly into the carby (that $2 red can brand of degreser works well!!) sometimes 1 minute of good running will rebed the rings and clear out the shit enough so it will start easily the next time. Good luck!!

[Cob604]

so when you say it fires, you mean the engine runs for a few seconds like normal, or is it shaking like crazy as if several cylinders are down? Is you brake booster hose connected, that could explain the good compression on number 4 and the shit comp on the rest with the closed throttle comp test. Block every vaccuum hose that you dont know about. Also try putting a rag over the carby, sorta bunch it up to block a bit of it, try different amounts of coverage. it works as a super choke. If you can get it running enough to get a good vacuum up it can sometimes clear a jet if one is blocked etc, you never know.. The idle and other screws will not stop it from running, they will just make it run rought etc, so its not them. Try and keep it running for a minute or so using a spay bottle or even degreaser squirting constantly into the carby (that $2 red can brand of degreser works well!!) sometimes 1 minute of good running will rebed the rings and clear out the shit enough so it will start easily the next time. Good luck!!

when it fires it shakes & speeds up for a second, when i spray carby cleaner down it it fires continously for about 5 seconds & when i stop it goes back to cranking

yeah the brake booster hose is connected.

but i rebuilt the carby & it sucks fuel into the engine

ill try to get it firing for as long as i can today & see what happens

thx

its got no coolant in it atm so i there will b no evidence of a blown head gasket.

there is a bit of whiteist liquid (but i think it is oil & petrol) at the back of the head near cyl 4. how else can i tell if the head gasket is blown

where does the hose from the inlet manifold (near the osf strut tower) go as ive got it going in the top of the back of rocker cover. could explain the whitesh liquid (petrol & oil)

thx