4agte

[Pure-SX]

I will soon be turboing my ST 4age 20valve, I was wondering if you would recommend using a full gze bottom end or just the gze pistons and getting the rest of the engine rebuilt?
cheers

[Lukey-KE20]

Ummmm - GZE pistons are 4 valve - not 5 valve.

Just get your hands on GZE and turbo that. You can sell the 20v.

Cheers

[30psi 4agte]

Ahh GZE pistons can be used plenty of people do it.


SX: Depends on what you goal for the engine is. 20v rods are the same as the Ae101
GZE anyhow. They will prob handle 250rwkw but wouldnt wana push past this.

The chunkier rods are from the AE92 and can handle extreme abuse !


P.S pm sent

[Gavatron]

You'll be fine with just the GZE pistons. Pretty sure that everything below the head on a 20v is the same as a smallport (ie 7 rib block, oil squirters, same rods/crank).

[Lukey-KE20]

I fail to see how replacing just the BOTTOM END with GZE gear - as stated in the post - will solve the problem of a 20v head.

You need a 16v head - end of story.

[Gavatron]

No, you don't.

GZE pistons in a 20V AND GZE bottom ends with 20V head have BOTH BEEN DONE. Check worklogs if you like. So, no. I don't believe I have missed the point at all 'brainiac'.

[Pure-SX]

my mate is running a gze bottom end with a black top head and is netting 150rwkw on 12psi in his sprinter it does work, also what turbo would you recommend? I am looking at a
S15 BB t28

[skiddz]

while the 20v head flows better than the 16v the 16v head has a few advantages

1. if shit hits the fan the engine will be non interferance
2. you cannot run more than a 9mm lift camon a 20v, or even somthign with less lift and an agressive profile, you WILL flick a shim
3. you will have to have a boost proof box madeup for around the quads

so the moral of this story is how fast do you wanna spend?

20v may or maynot yeild better results but a 16v GZE will be far cheaper option for the same or better output, if you throw the same amount of money at both 16v will come out on top

[Lukey-KE20]

1. if shit hits the fan the engine will be non interferance

Exactly. Hence my suggestion in post 2. Just because it can be done doesn't mean its the best way.

[Gavatron]

No. You were suggesting that it wouldn't work at all. It does. The only time the 'shit would hit the fan' is if the timing belt snaps and the pistons meet the valves. If you change the belt at proper intervals, it shouldn't happen.

There are plenty of FACTORY STANDARD engines out there where that could happen. I don;t see the problem with it. Just don't neglect the timing belt.

Stop trying to cover up your own stupidity.

[Lukey-KE20]

Gavatron - please point out where I said that it wouldn't work at all.

I have said that there are problems that need to be addressed - not least of which is the interference issue. You've as much as admitted this in your last post. You can assume what you wish but you can't put words in my mouth.

I would still use a 16v head on a 16v bottom end any day of the week. Not least because of the interference issue but also the associated costs. This includes the repair costs should there be a timing belt issue. If you can live with this, knock yourself out. I know I couldn't.

Gavatron - keep your abuse to yourself. It's attitudes like this that prevent meaningful discussion and discourage people from posting. Perhaps you should ask for qualification before flaming peoples comments.

[Gavatron]

Gavatron - please point out where I said that it wouldn't work at all.

You need a 16v head - end of story.

Ta Daa!!!!

[skiddz]

lukey you said above "You need a 16v head - end of story."

gav obviously took this as "a 20v wont fit nor work", sure use a 20v head, but IMO you can use lumpier cams (read: better for FI) with the 16v and with FI it really doesnt matter how well the head flows anyway, cos you are forcing the air to flow.

pure sx: the little numbers under your name and location tells me you havent been here a long time, and judging by this post you clearly have very little idea what you are doing, the 20v is a great flowing NA head but you reach a point where the 16v surpasses it (where all drivablity is lost)and FI and REALLY highly strung NA is that point. also if you are thinking about using a standard 4age turbo kit, either think about a 16v head or think about getting it modified.

but hey your money and engine, so its your choice, you posted to get our recommendations and that is what we have given

[30psi 4agte]

2. you cannot run more than a 9mm lift camon a 20v, or even somthign with less lift and an agressive profile, you WILL flick a shim

FWIW I agree with gav .

Skiddz : Correct me if i wrong but the 20v runs shim under buckets so flicking a shim out is in theroy impossible .
Its the 16v that you cant run more than 8.35 - 8.5mm and an agressive profile will flick shim.

20 v head can be done on 16v pistons - end of story.

[skiddz]

Skiddz : Correct me if i wrong but the 20v runs shim under buckets so flicking a shim out is in theroy impossible .

i would correct you if you were wrong

but you are indeed correct, i had what i term a brain fart, the 20v has 23mm buckets small buckets mean not as much lift and a less agressive profile