Dunno. Supply and demand maybe? People hitting curbs on one side more than the other?
I just want to know why they're so expensive!!!
uh.. how come the LH front arm sub assy is cheaper than the RH?
i only needed the front LH arm sub assy anyway, for the slightly popped bush..
luckily the figure 8 seems fine, when the RH figure 8 was gone it made noises
there's no noises from the LH figure 8 so it's ok.. i hope
Dunno. Supply and demand maybe? People hitting curbs on one side more than the other?
I just want to know why they're so expensive!!!
btw, how did you guys disjoin the front arm sub assy from the hub anyway?
years back, the mechanic who did it for me couldn't get it out, he couldnt use the bearing dislocater because of where its located (dont know what that tool is called officially) and he beat the sh*t out of the front lower control arm with a hammer and ended up killing the ball joint joining the hub, ripped the sleeve and grease leaking everywhere... i replaced it anyway but i just thought i'd check and see if there's an easier way without killing the ball joint joining the hub.. for in case if i need to get a used one
it's forged with balljoints which is apparently expensive anyway.. i guess thats why its so expensive..
but it doesnt explain why the rear arm sub assy is more expensive than the front... that's only got 1 ball joint compared to 2 ball joint plus a rose joint ish thing on the front arm...
now that really makes me think if its really better off if i just change it to normal mcpherson struts... that means i gotta ditch the two pot calipers and the new struts and trd springs and sway bar i've put in...
2 pot brakes can be fitted to McPherson struts with a little modification to the caliper slide, it just needs to be ground down by 5mm or so to provide clearance as the caliper sits a bit closer to the centre of the hub on McPherson struts.
I believe the sway bar maybe interchangeable too, there is a slight variance in part numbers, but they appear almost identical, I would assume they are located in the same position. I don't have a McPherson strut swaybar to compare with though.
Super strut part no: 48811-12710
McPherson Strut part no: 48811-12720
I'm not sure the technique required to dismantle the super strut suspension, although I do know for the upper ball joint there is a small 'bump' on the steering knuckle where the 'stick' bit of the ball joint slots into. If you hit this bump, it separates the ball joint more easily than a separator or prybar.
The bit I've ringed in red in the pic below.
Last edited by TERRA Operative; 31-05-2008 at 10:36 PM.
to make you all feel better the: leading control arms for a 205 are $900 each side, the trailing ones are $400 each and the fig 8's are $240 a side (give or take)
Holey moley! $3080!!!!
Damn, stuff that. That's almost a set of TRD coilovers!
those prices, like every other part from toyota, are just a complete rip-off. 600 for rear wheel bearings/hub, per side. wtf. 50 bucks from the wrecking yard, in perfect working order, FTW
No Signature.
i guess i haven't explained myself well..
it's this part that i have circled in light blue which is what i'm concerned about... it's stuck on the hub really hard and there is just no space to fit the ball joint dislocater in there...
thanks toyota...
superstrut, superheadache...
toyota prices really make me want to go back to nissan...
the slave cylinder for a skyline r32 was 60 bucks, for the ae111... i remember it was like 100 or something when i replaced it
but nuh.... the day to day cost associated with running a skyline...
chiksluvit, I'm not sure about that one, I've never undone it. Let us know if you find out the easy way.
no worries..
i'll do some ring around on monday to get prices and see how it all goes...
if i can't get it for any cheaper than 510, and i have to get 2nd hand then i will, or i'll just wait til i'm more comfortable to pay that amount
car drives fine for now, so not that much in a hurry, i just can't stand driving a car knowing something of it isn't 100%
i'll post up the process if i find an easier way
Thanks guys and Terra operative, appriciate your input in this
when im seperating the superslut suspension what i find the best method is to have some force trying to seperate the 2 bits (such as a cold chisel) obviously after taking the nut off, so have that forcing them appart and then tap the part that the taper goes into. The force from the cold chisel pushes them appart and the tapping on the ID taper loosensthe lock between the tapers and releases them.
there is a vid on youtube of a quick how to get the hub and the top taper of the strut appart using a pry bar and a knockomoter (hammar )
for your information..
despite the exchange rate to jpy is stronger than previous years
toyota now charges more for the superstruts...
48066 12020 (figure 8)- RRP $173.80
48606 19015 (front lower arm)- RRP $676.50
for some reason the part numbers i got is different to Terra's
the price is more because the australian dollar is stronger... so you need to pay more in australia for things which are now cheaper overseas....
it's the Aussie way always a good excuse to raise prices, never a reason to lower them
not much on yahoo except this http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r46940356
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
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