Sam's MA61 7MGTE Conversion

[CrUZida]

Those 2 links you have circled are the pink and yellow wires in the engine bay fuse box.

Wait!!!
Maybe not.

Hmm, you have me thinking...

[Negative Boost]

Oh dam you. Reading that i was like, yay thats awsome news! Then, huh maybe he's going to tell me its somewhere else. Then, oh dammit.

But yeh, i was looking at the diagram and thinking some more, the colours of the 2 fusible links are P for pink and L for Light Blue. So i was hopeing to check the wires in the fuse box 2moro morning to check for those colours. If thats not them, well im stuck.

[CrUZida]

Fusebox ones are the 2 above it, 1.0 and 0.3

The 0.3 and 2.0 would be on that green clip on the battery from memory.

[Negative Boost]

Ah, thats awsome! Think i have it figured out now thanks to you! Very grateful for your help cruz.

What i think i've done is grounded that wire to the chassis. Silly me...

[Negative Boost]

Yup, i grounded that wire to the chassis. Its now where its supposed to be and i have power!

Took a few pics i'll shove them up later on.

Also i turned the key!!! But it didnt start... Turns over perfectly but only gives a hint of wanting to start. Has plenty of fuel as it was huffing black smoke out of the turbo elbow. It sounds like its spark related to me. So i plulled out a spark plug and discovered heaps of water in the spark plug gallery. So i have to clean all the water out and im going to change over the spark plugs aswell. That should fix it.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

damn, sounds like you are really close. ive always wondered why they never put a drain for the valley as it seems common to find either oil or water in there.

[Negative Boost]

I agree, and then they screw that "lid" down with 14mm allen key bolts!! Stupid.

She's running!!!! I got rid of all that water in the gallery and then cleaned up the spark plugs which looked to be in pretty good nick, so i didnt end up changing them. I then cranked it over a few more times but all i would get was a splutter.
When i pulled the engine out i had a nearly empty fuel tank, seems the rest evaporated. So i put 10 litres into the tank along with some octane booster and injector cleaner. Started her up, a puff of smoke from the exhuast and she was idling perfectly! I think i need a new tensioner though as mine seized up and wouldnt move, creating a horrible squeal.
So i have it idling right, the temp guage is going up, i have 60psi oil pressure and slowly dropping cuss the oil was warming up and about 18 (whatever it is) of vacumm. All was running perfectly. Untill, it warmed up.
As soon as it hit 4 bar (1 below halfway) on the temperature guage the revs started to fluctuate. In about a 7sec cycle the engine will idle perfectly no hiccups whatever, then all of a sudden the engine will momentarily cut out, then pick the revs back up to idle again all by itself. So its like vrrrrrrrrrrmmmm, brfh (cut-out), vRrrrrrrrrrrrrmmm. But if you give it a little throttle and keep it open slightly its fine. It'll idle (with throttle) good but with a slight hint of a pop here and there. And then as soon as your off the throttle the revs will drop, cut out, and then pick back up to idle again like before. But now its on a 3sec cycle.... This ones got me confused.
The only assumption i have, is that it has to do something with the cold start injector becuase as soon as that closes, the idle starts to fluctuate and almost cuts out as said before. Any ideas guys?
I've also checked the a/f ratio through the diagnostics block and i got a reading of .025v. I think i had the voltmeter setup wrong and should be reading 2.5v which is perfect according to the TSRM

http://mk3supra.net/images/uploaded/vffueltrim.gif

Havnt check the engine codes yet as my check engine light dosnt work yet. I think i got the soldering iron too close to the resistor.

So in the mean time, what do you guys think?

[urantia]

Always some gremlins to work out after the first start.
Thats acting simular to the time i left the AFM unplugged once. But since it happens after it goes into closed loop says otherwise.

I'd check all sensors (the ones that feed info to ECu when on closed loop) are secured. Shouldn't be a wiring issue. (at least not where the ECU is concerned)

My 1jz started doing something simular when the alternator died, after turning the car off and then back on again rectified that. Will have a think about this.

[Negative Boost]

Cheers, AFM is connected, made sure of that but i didnt check to see if it made a difference disconnecting it or not.

[urantia]

Well it was idling fine when you first started it so the AFM must be good. I reckon if you can get the cel light working it will have a code for you.

I dunno if the ma60 had the same colored wire for the cel light as the ma70 body loom. But with the 1jz the colors were different, green and red on the ma70 and grey black on the jza. Fark i will have to have another look to be sure. But yeah the cel wouldn't work at first becuase i whent with the standard wiring colors in all the wiring diagrams on the net.

[urantia]

Also big air pockets in the cooling system of the celica did the exact same behaviour. (probably not the problem but anyway thinking what else it could be.)

[Negative Boost]

The MA61 dosnt come with a CEL light from factory. So i've just ran a wire from M1 plug 18 i think it was, Grey with a Green trace through to a resistor and a led light and then to ground. I think i've blown the resistor when soldering it though. Will fix it.

[Negative Boost]

Will try geting all the bubbles out of the system too. Cheers for the help

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

ah no, tensioner gone thats not a cheap part! But glad to hear you got it up and running

[Negative Boost]

Haha, cheers mate. How not cheap?
Hmm, might be able to plunder the 6M one...