1jz autronic sm4 not starting

[chris davey]

This is the Cressida I just bought. I picked it up and it was starting and running ok. The next day after I got it home the thing wouldn't start sometimes. Firstly, the car has a switch to turn ignition power on and then a start button rather than an ignition barrel. I felt that the start button was a bit tempremental so I have unplugged that at present.

Some of the wiring in the engine bay was a bit untidy so I spent a bit of time moving it and re-heatshrinking/taping/soldering.

In particular the wiring on the igniter was a bit untidy. This is the bosch igniter that is being used.


It is a 3 channel igniter and the 3 output wires are individually split between 2 coils ie. 1 output to 1&6 etc. I can't remember the firing order but it hasn't changed since when it was running originally. It is using the stock coil on plug setup and I have already gone over them and had to fix up 3 hairline cracks. Plugs are BKR7e.

When I crank it now, I get fuel pump noise, appears to be a bit of fuel on the spark plug when I pull it out so it appears that it is a spark problem.

I got some errors on the autronic that say
23: barometric pressure
43: ref pulse error while engine is runing

re 23: I don't think there is any issue with the tubing going directly from the ecu to the rear of the inlet manifold.

43: so, I am thinking that this is something to do with the cam or crank sensor? I haven't changed anything to do with that. But it makes sense as it needs these 2 sensors to know when to spark. So how do I go about testing it?

Other info:
I still can't connect to the ecu with my laptop as this bastard usb to com port adaptor isn't working. This "may" shed some light on some things when I can?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Chris

[The Real Roadrunner]

re 23 barometric pressure. someone hasn't set the figures in it correctly which will bring up this code, had it happen a couple of times and ill try to find the answer tonight for you (i forget too much )

[chris davey]

thanks Linden. Unfortunately, I won't be able to change the settings until I can get the laptop connected though. Hopefully sort that out soon.

[The Real Roadrunner]

just find an old laptop with windows and a 9pin serial connection.

coupla hundred from the trading post and job done, wont matter if you take it to the track and it gets a scratch on it either.

cheers
linden

[3BarSuperstar]

I had a baro error once and found that the baro update was set incorrectly. If you go into
M1 and then i/p analog and then i/p baro and the baro update should be set to table if your not using a external baro sensor.

[chris davey]

nope using internal one. Thanks for that.

I already have a cheap ass laptop. Got virused up and it is a POS that only works when it is plugged into 240v hence me having a 240v inverter in the corona. Want to throw the POS out ASAP!

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Why don't you just get a power adapter for the laptop so you're going from 12V DC -> ~19V DC (or what it requires) instead of 12V DC -> 240V AC -> whatever

[1JZ.747]

you need another microtech brother?

[chris davey]

haha, yeah, they just "work"

JCMO: I got no idea what you are talking about I could run an extension lead so I could use my POS puter in the cressida temporarily but as I said it is virused up to the shit, P133 so mega slow as is. Just want to throw the POS out and get my new laptop sorted on it

[AmperSand]

Chris:

That battery had been sitting for a few months without charge. I gave it a full charge just before you picked it up. I had all the same sorts of trouble when battery charge was too low to get any more than a few cranks out. Im pretty sure a new battery will nearly be in order for it pretty soon, that one had been discharged quite a few times (due to not driving it much).

I found it wouldnt start overly well if there was SFA charge on the battery (with autronic) standard ecu used to handle it ok, autronic was a whole nother story. Try doing a full charge overnight on the battery, or getting another one and i bet it starts pretty quickly

I only really started getting trouble like that when I relocated the battery to the boot. The earth I used was pretty crappy, and Im sure the terminals for the battery arent the best in the world. Was a bit rushed at the time I did it, Wish I had more time to fix every niggling little thing on it, although if I did, i doubt Id have sold it

Hope that helps.

[chris davey]

Thanks Todd. I have recharged the battery and the starter appears to have a heap of charge as it cranks over well but doesn't appear to be any spark. I think it is an igniter issue. I have finished off the battery isolation switch and checked battery voltage and it appears good so...? I think I will do some random jiggling of wires until I get some spark again

[AmperSand]

Be persistant. After not starting for a while it took me around 5-6 tries to get it going.
We thought it was the starter motor at first, although I had that rebuilt.
I think the coldstart on it is pretty crap, as sometimes it took me a bit to get it going (like it was flooded). You see the crap seeping out of the exhuast after quite a few tries with no avail. Then when it starts its a bit ass till you clean it out a bit going for a drive. Have you changed the plugs also, they are only copper ones.. dont last overly long.. If you do make sure they are gapped to .7mm. Was nearly impossible to start when gapped to anything wider than that.

[AmperSand]

Also, it runs very rich. You get quite a bit of deposit on the plugs. REALLY needs a retune.
I fouled my iridiums in it pretty quickly, was cleaning them quite often. Ended up just going for copper ones as they were fouling and not sparking after a bit as they got older.
Try cleaning plugs or getting a new set and gapping to .7mm.
I remember last time it was being impossible to start, new plugs in and it started first go (2-3 cranks).

[richzx]

Off topic but did you find the airbox Todd?

[chris davey]

alright, will go and slap some new plugs in it then. I know it needs a tune badly but can't get it to a tuner until car starts and I can go and get a safety cert.