heater not working? (GZ20)

[Hengsta]

Howdy guys, since its getting cold and i want to use my heater now days. But one thing is that it dont work.

Anyone have any clue why my heater is not working or how to work it? (Buttons are in Japanese writing FTL).

or is it got to do with my 1JZ conversion i done?

any help much appreciated.

Cheers,

Heng

[gztwenty]

If it's the same as mine dude, the 3 on the left are LOW - MED - HIGH fan speeds. if you push low and med makes med/low. if you push med and high makes med/high. So there are actually 5 fan speeds. Now, the one on the far right is OFF, and the biggish one next to it is AUTO. the rest are self explanitory. as for the heater not working, it may be a stuffed heater box. after you did the conversion there way be a blockage in the heater hose. im no mechanic by far, its just a guess. hope it helps.

[Kedderz]

is the fan not turning or is the air not hot?

[Xistant]

check your heater valve and see if its opening (located on passenger firewall in engine bay)

[The Real Roadrunner]

check your heater valve and see if its opening (located on passenger firewall in engine bay)

yep, also make sure you conected a vacuum line to it, aswell as making sure the soleniod is still wired up correctly.

cheers
linden

[gztwenty]

On that note, my temp doesnt really work all that well. if i want it cold, 18 gives me normal temp air (outside temp), but if i want warm, it stays outside temp all the way up to 30, I put it on 30.5 it comes through hot as hell. :S could it be a sticky actuator thingy.

[The Real Roadrunner]

maybe the air temp sensor is rooted? i have no idea.

[Hengsta]

is the fan not turning or is the air not hot?

The air not hot.

All the hoses and connections are in but still not hot

might have to double check everything.

but any more sugestions?

Cheers for the help lads.

[Darola]

hey there mate...

first thing.. if u have changed your motor, make sure its acually hooked up by the two cooling hoes's going thru the firewall... then check if who instaled the motor fitted a heater tap, opens the coolaant flow to the cabin.. with the gz20 the heater tap works off vaccum control

last thing if these are all hooked up.. then there could be a blocked heater core, not allowing the flow thru the cabin


hope this helps

Ed

[Hengsta]

Install the motor my self and yes the two hoses that goes through the fire wall is hooked up. before i put the engine in i shuved the water hose in and cleaned all the crap out of it (was fucking red as). Im pretty sure there is only one connection that hooks up to the soleniod which is hooks to the engine loom (which is connected).

but there is only one hose i didnt hook up which is the black box thingo in front of all the heater crap in the engine bay. if i connect it to vaccum the car will idle and run like shit and when i disconnect it, it idles and runs smoother so not sure where it goes or if it interfers with the heater stuff.


It may be hooked up there but i disconnected it now

[Mos]

On that note, my temp doesnt really work all that well. if i want it cold, 18 gives me normal temp air (outside temp), but if i want warm, it stays outside temp all the way up to 30, I put it on 30.5 it comes through hot as hell. :S could it be a sticky actuator thingy.

I'd have a look to see when the heater tap is opening. If it doesn't open until you set it to 30 degrees then it's something funny with the electronics - the fact that it gets hot at all implies the heater tap works.
The heater tap on these is on or off, it doesn't have any linear control to it. The control is done through the air mix servo in the heater box - it's unlikely that's faulty, but I suppose it could be - eg. it could be going from full cold to full hot because the feedback pot in the servo is faulty.

Have you tried it on auto? The IS200 temp control seems to be a bit non-linear in normal mode, but in auto it controls the fan and heat very well.

but there is only one hose i didnt hook up which is the black box thingo in front of all the heater crap in the engine bay. if i connect it to vaccum the car will idle and run like shit and when i disconnect it, it idles and runs smoother so not sure where it goes or if it interfers with the heater stuff.

This sounds like there is no vac line to the heater tap actuator which will stop it from working.
Try moving the actuator physically to open the tap and see if it gets hot.

It may be hooked up there but i disconnected it not

That's the charcoal canister - nothing to do with the heater tap which is the round actuatory looking thing behind the CC. Follow the vac line off the top of the actuatory looking thingo - it should go to a vsv, then the other vsv port should have a vac line running to vac somewhere.

Mos.

[Hengsta]

Cheers for the advice Mos i will have to double check it anyways. will try your method though

[Kedderz]

that black box is the charcoal canister, nothing to do with the heating. play around with the solenoid/heater tap see if you can move it manually.

[Hengsta]

What is that charcoal canister actually for?

would anything happen if i dont plug a hose in there? and which hose goes to it?

[GT1978]

Charcoal canister is there for emmissions reasons. It's effectively the breather hole for the petrol tank. The Petrol tank sucks in some air through the charcoal filter to reduce the vacuum in the tank caused by the petrol being pumped out. On a warm day while your car is parked and the tank temp rises it allows some of the pressure in the tank to be vented through the charcoal filter (which traps most of the hydrocarbon vapours). There is also a line that goes to the intake to burn off excess vapours in the CC while the engines running to increase the filters life. Or something like that anyway.

Glen