upper arms are in tension and lower arms are in compression?
Im about to make up some adjustable trailing arms for my RT142 corona to adjust the pinion angle to hopefully stop it from hitting the floor. Im still deciding to make the upper or lower arms adjustable. Im reading most people do the upper arm instead of the lower arms. Any reason for this?
SOLD : 1GGTE Rt142 Corona - Twin TD04-9b turbos - 180rwkw = 13.1 @105mph
upper arms are in tension and lower arms are in compression?
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I would do lowever arms myself purely from the point of view of them being easier to convert and also easier to access.
You could do both and that way also be able to align the axle as well.
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if your doing one, do the other...
cheers
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i have the material to do a set, either upper or lower. Doesnt really seem like their is any obvious reason for choosing upper or lower arms although the lower arms would be easier to adjust. Might go for the lower arms for now.
SOLD : 1GGTE Rt142 Corona - Twin TD04-9b turbos - 180rwkw = 13.1 @105mph
lower arms push the weight of car forwards and transmit ALL the power from the axle to the car.
if your adjustable bits can deal with that.. all good![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
I have some good quality material from macdonald brothers racing. I have some of their tubing which is already threaded and adjusters with L/H and R/H threads which is 3/4 thick. Sould be sufficient.
SOLD : 1GGTE Rt142 Corona - Twin TD04-9b turbos - 180rwkw = 13.1 @105mph
Im doing uppers.
There is a reason why the uppers are much smaller/weaker than the lowers... in my mind, thats the best place for a possibly weaker/less-reliable part to be placed.
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if you do uppers just be sure that they can run through there full travel without binding on the body.
some toyotas won't allow you to do it because the cut outs in the brackets are too small and require some diegrinding to allow clearance.
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
i did both upper and lower.
for the upper i used the middle out of some MR2 adjusters. they are ready made, all i did was weld the bush rings on the end really.
for the lower i cut the arm in two, threaded the inside of one tube with a 1mm pitch thread, then i made a male threaded insert to weld into the end of the part of the arm i didn't thread, made some big long lock nuts so there is plenty of thread contact to take the load and hey presto! adjustable.
i made them 5 years ago and have had no issue so far.
sheepers.
edit: i made both adjustable because all the angles were wrong with the diff that keysbrough diffs made for me (never use these people for anything) and i had to adjust pinion angle as well as thrust angle.
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I finished and have installed my now adjustable lower trailing arms and new nolathane bushes. Adjusted the pinion down about half an inch and it doesnt hit the floor anymore. Im happy with the result. Here is what I made:
![]()
SOLD : 1GGTE Rt142 Corona - Twin TD04-9b turbos - 180rwkw = 13.1 @105mph
looks really neat
thumbs up !
Are they LH and RH threaded or just RH ?
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
please tell me they are opposite thread
cheers, andrew
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
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