CT26 pouring out blueish smoke and oil

[79GT]

hey guys, just got my 3tgte going yesterday and runs nicely, except that huge amounts of blueish smoke and actual oil is coming out the back. (no exhaust at present)

My first assumption is that the oil seals in the turbo are buggered and are simply doing bugger all.

although my second after some reading that my oil return line could be an issue.
I read that it was gravity fed, which is all well and good except for in my case where the oil return line is facing upwards....hence no gravity forcing the oil out and putting excess pressure on the seals. this is pure speculation and have no idea if this could actually occur, but it was a thought that seemed applicable in theory....Opinions....

Any advice or opinions on my current situation would be muchly appreciated. cheers for your help in advance you all.

Jamie

[Cuzzo]

You want to clock the turbo.

Google it up. But it involves undoing the bolts and massive circlip(or other type of clip) Im not sure what the ct26 uses to keep it all together.

The oil drain HAS to be point as vertical down as you can get it. As well as the drain hose/line needs to be as vertical as possible too.

[CHB]

1) un-bolt 2 12mm V-band clamp that hold the catriedge to the rear housing. after unbolt, you have to hammer it using a rubber mallet and its a tough job. while you hammer it, be sure to turn the turbine shaft and check if it spin freely. if it doesn't, you must stop immediately and inspect if the housing has already loosen on one side. do it repeatedly until you remove the exhaust housing.

2) use a C-clip plier to remove the large C-clip on the compressor housing. please note that you must put it back on the same side as it came out as the C-clip has a slanted surface on one side but not the other.

3) mount your exhaust housing ONLY on your manifold.

4) place the centre catriedge on the exhaust housing. now here you need to make sure you return hole are pointing vertically to the floor. CT26 has oil fed hole n drain hole on the same side so you may need a new hydraulic hose for the fed line.

5)mount the front compressor housing to the center catriedge and match the outlet according to you intercooler piping. make a mark here too.

by now you have already clocked your turbo and the installation is just reverse process of dismantling.

good luck

[79GT]

cheers guys that is great info, i will get onto that asap. hopefully it will solve my problem...hopefully. will keep you all informed. cheers.

[79GT]

Hey guys, after 2 days of buggering around i finnally completed this task.

i did however learn a few things...
- as read from a rebuild site, use a heat gun to heat up the sleeves** (whatever it is, the part under the brackets held by the 12 mm bolts/studs)) before you tap tap away, especially if it is the first time you pulled it apart.

- a rubber mallet doesnt work, the job was easy when a relatively light panel beating hammer was used.

- to clock the exhaust housing, (there is no circlip on the exhaust housing, it is just pressed together by that clamp. simply line it up to where necessary, and drill another whole similiar to the one that already exists for the pin to locate in...easy sorted.

- to clock the compressor housing, remove the circlip as above, remove housing and remove/drill out/grind back in someway the locating pin so the housing can rotate, re install the circlip (much easier with an extra set of hands) and walah....solved - if you had no need to clock the compressor housing to a different angle, before securing ensure that the actuator mounting holes line up correctly with the exhaust housing...hence returning both housing to standard angles....leaving the centre mechanism suited to the engine .

- line it all up while it is on the engine as to avoid repetion of this process (7 times in total for me, i didnt read above carefully enough, i lined it up with the manifold but not with the engine and surounds). also when alligning....consider the following
- are the oil lines going to be accessible
- do they foul/or come very close to the engine mount
- is the air outlet on the turbo on an angle that will be feasible when ducting
is concerned
- the water lines can swap sides with the blanking plate if necesarry.

- you do not need to make a bracket of any kind for the actuator if you main reason for the clocking is to rotate the oil lines. in my case, i needed my outlet where it was originally, meaning that i had to clock the exhaust housing so my oil lines would face the ground, and then clock the air housing back into its original position - meaning that the actuator remained stagnent.
(i found this out after 2 people spending 3 hours making a freaking bracket....painted
and all, to find that when i bolt it all together i have to clock the air housing and
therefore no need for bracket. grrrrr )

also - you are using a ct26 on a 3t in a ta22, you may need to (well i did) have to take off the entire exhaust manifold before removing the turbo, and that you cannot have the oil line facing directly down as it will come very close to the engine mount making it a royal pain in the ass getting the return line on, and kink free. (i managed to do it, but would not recomend it)

the only reason i left it is because after pulling it all off the amount of times i did, i just
rathered get it together, and working and i can tidy it up later...as i have no doubt
something else will go wrong that will involve me pulling it all off again.

will add more if i think of it guys. i didnt get a chance to start the car yet to see if i solved my problem as it got to late tonight.....i am hoping/praying that it has because it will make these last two days oh so much more painfull if it didnt.

edit: just one more question, is the oil section of the turbo suppose to be completely segregated from both the exhaust and the air housing....with all the handling and turning and rotating i did with my turbo i noticed oil in places were i wouldnt expect it, ultimately leaking out of both the exhaust and air housing depending on the angle i had it when i was working on it, (not gushing or anything, just it wasnt there when i sat down to start working, and when i was done a puddle had appeared) hopefully it isnt bad news...but let me know....cheers.

seeya guys. any input or questions most welcome.