3s-gte in aw11 slow revving? or something not quite right maybe?

[Wildsupra]

I seem to be having some weird things happening with the 3s in my aw11, it appears that particularly in 1st and 2nd gear the car is quite slow revving until i hit about 6000rpm which it then seems to free up and start bouncing off the 7.5k limiter in no time. (by slow i mean not exactly throwing ya back of feeling like ya going all that quick, but still quicker than the 4a)
When the car is loaded up a bit in 3rd she starts pulling a little earlier like 4.5k but still seems to "hold back" until higher in the revs, im getting 12psi at around 4k ish revs in 1st and 2nd but doesnt seem to help until 6k.

Its almost as if the car is very laggy but the boost gauge is showing full boost far earlier than when it starts to get up and go kinda thing.
Ive used a ct26 7m front housing on the 3s ct26 rear housing, could that be causing an issue?
Im also using GEN 3 cams in the gen 2 engine, they have an extra .5mm lift and apparently 6 degrees more retarded exhaust timing, i wondering if the retarded exhaust cam might be plaing a part in the late revving?

Im also running a 3" straight through exhaust system but cant see that being a problem??

Finally someone mentioned TVIS might hold it back somehow? whats the story with that? Could it be a problem?

The car doesnt seem as quick down low as my last one with the stock 165 engine in it, however this one certainly pulls a lot harder up top. Pitty it doesnt have the low down of the last one combined with top end of this one.......yet

Any help would be great.

Cheers
Matty

[triptek]

The 7m high flow shouldn't cause ya any dramas. I had a 60-1 7m high flowed turbo on my mr2, with a 3s rear housing. Was a little laggy up to 3500rpm, but nothink hugely noticeable. I was having problems with the tvis though when i installed the microtech. Was getting flat spots up to 4krpm. We just removed the tvis gear and the problem went away.

[Mr Revhead]

checked ecu for codes?
if not, maybe knock sensor or 02 sensor faulty.....

[Dale]

I'm thinking timing would definitely be playing a part

People say that gen 3s are more peaky than gen 1/2 so it does kinda make sense

also are you 100% sure the timing belt isnt a tooth out?

[kAm]

st205 3sgte? if so could it be the boost limit thing for 1st and 2nd?
my old one would boost about 8psi in 1st and 2nd and then 11 in 3rd. well something to that effect (stupid bar gauge). maybe the problem lies within there (my boost readings were always random too, hit one bar once in 1st 2nd and 3rd, was fully sick!)

edit: what i was trying to get at was it might be the stock boost controller thing (im not good with part names)

[Wildsupra]

Triptek: by removing the TVIS gear wot exactly do you mean? just removed all the acuum setup going to control it or actually took the manifold off and romoved the TVIS section itself?

MR Revhead: no codes are coming up....

Dale, im 99% sure the timing belt is on correctly, i guess that isnt too hard to re check again, i did change it but i put it back the same way the last one came off.....unless it was a tooth out before i changed it.

KTP its the gen 2 3s and im running a Profec B boost controller anyway.....

Im actually now wondering if my wastegate is sorta creeping open as she comes on boost to begin with.

Cheers
Matty

[Howieau]

Wildsupra if you disconnect the VSV valve and the vacuum lines to the TVIS the TVIS will stay open by default all the time. What I did is put a vacuum line from my intake manifold to the TVIS actuator so when my car is in vacuum its held shut, and then when it hits boost it opens and boosts free.

Give it a shot. If your TVIS is still hooked up with the standard ECU and such, there could be a fault somewhere and its no longer opening when it should. If it stays shut thatll seriously slow your car down on boost as it will flow half as much air as it would when its open. (4/8 intake runner valves in the TVIS are shut when TVIS is closed.

Could be one thing to look into.

[Adsport]

i would remove the boost controller from the equation for starters , and then wire the TVIS to be open , as in hard wire with some fencing wire etc to ensure it isnt operating on its own accord and see what difference that makes. the TVIS electricals may be not functional if they are linked to something else that hasnt been wired up or earthed..


if problem persists seen doctor tristan

[Wildsupra]

Howieau cheers for all that man, sounds like something to start with, then move onto wot ads is saying for sure. Tristan was up there on the list aswell, only thing is, still dont have a working alternator so lots of driving isnt in order just yet.

got a few things to tinker with now, will report back when i get a chance to try em all

Cheers Guys

Matty

[Wildsupra]

ok bit of an update, i did what howieau suggested and ran a vacuum line straight to the TVIS valve, and then although had a slight tinker with the ignition timing, im now very please to say that the car is much much much more responsive down low and seems to pull much better now.
Ive also now realised my engine bay temps are rediculously hot, as in i cant even put my hand on the engine lid they are that hot, got hold of some louvres today which i plan on fitting to the lid to increase air flow by about 500% not too mention rewire the side vent fan to ON

Cheers for the help guys
Matty