Reply With QuoteCheers Ben, I´ll do the one on my 205 in the next week or so and report back on the job with any differences.
Thanks buddy.
Anthony
HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or tur
Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or turbo.
Warning this is long as it is quite detailed and there are many tricks along the way.
Pictures are worth a 1000 words so they are also on the way.
In summary this is the way I removed the stock dump pipe without removing anything else from the car. Otherwise you will need to remove the aircon and some other parts in order to access the bolts that bolt in the support brackets that are about half way down the dump pipe. The trick is to remove all the studs from the top of the dump pipe that bolt it up to the turbo. This allows you to move the dump pipe clear of the supports and drop it out the bottom.
What you will need.
- 2 nuts to remove the studs. The studs are M10x1.25 pitch depth.
- At repco you can buy several nuts with this thread which has a small flange and a 14mm spanner will fit the head. (referred to from hear on as the 14mm nut)
- The second set I also got from repco and it is a more solid looking nut which fits a 17mm spanner? (referred to from hear on as the 17mm nut)
- NOTE:Depending on the stud lengths and the nut sizes, you might need a way of grinding off the flange from the 14mm nut. I used a vice and an angle grinder.
- A small 3/8ths spanner set that can take the 14mm and 17mm nuts. The dip stick is in the way of 1 particular nut and my normal spanner set was too big to fit in there. I had to buy a cheapie 3/8th spanner to get in there. All the offset spanners I tried to find were no use. Also check the 17mm socket will fit in the space around the dump pipes. You won’t really be able to tell this until you take the heat shields off. (end of my day 1) I’ll try getting some measurements off my old dump pipe to help.
- Pipe to use as breaker bar might be required.
Step by Step My Day 1
- I firstly spayed WD40 on every nut and bolt I could see that I had to take off.
- Remove oil filter and dip stick for access. Good chance to do an oil change as well.
- Remove the alternator ducting completely. There are the nuts on the back of the alternator, but there is also another one near the fuse box in the front left corner of the engine bay. By undoing this you can completely remove the alternator ducting. Again for more room.
- You will also need to remove the covers from under the engine.
- Remove the heat shield from the top of the turbo. The two nuts on the top of the exhaust manifold just sheered off so I will have to use some easy outs on these later to remove them. I had the WTA intercooler blocking one of these nuts. I was able to lift the intercooler up enough to get access to the nut buy disconnecting it from the intake ducting but without having to drain the intercooler.
- Remove the 2nd heat shield which wraps around the O2 sensor. Pray the nuts aren’t too rusted. I had 1 nut round its head so I had use a Dremel tool to cut then grind off the head of the nut to allow me to remove the heat shield.
- To remove the heat shield you will also have to remove the support bracket that heads back towards the alternator. There is one nut under the alternator that allows you to pull back the plastic cover there. This then gives you some more access to the nut for the support bracket.
I finally got this off after 4 hours of work, end of my day 1.
Step by Step My Day 2
With both heat shields off you should now have access to all 6 bolts for the top of the dump pipe. These are all 14mm sockets
- Try undoing the nuts holding on the top of the dump pipe. First try the 5 across the top and towards the back. These shouldn’t cause too much trouble, I did have to use a breaker bar on some. Don’t be afraid if some off the nuts come out with the studs attached. This is a good thing as it saves a step later on.
- The two bolts at the back I used ring spanners on rather than a socket wrench.
- Take a deep breath and carefully bend the oil dip stick back towards the small gap between the oil cooler and air con compressor. You need to do this to get access to the nut that is tucked down in the elbow of the old dump pipe. Now with the smaller 3/8ths socket wrench you should be able to get it in there between the oil dip stick and the dump pipe.
- There are two bolts that bolt onto the dump pipe about half way down. These need to be undone as well. The one on the driver side has pretty good access and shouldn’t cause too many problems.
- The one on the passengers side is a bit trickier. I had to get under the car and use two wrenches together to undo that bolt. I had the first spanner on that nut, heading downwards and slightly towards the back of the car. You should be able to then slip the 2nd spanner in between the sump and the engine cross member. Lock the second spanner into the first and then you can undo the nut. This take a bit of time as you can only turn ¼ of a turn at a time.
- With these now undone you need to undo the dump pipe from the midpipe. Again lots of WD40 was used and I didn’t have any problems.
Now the dump pipe should feel relatively free to move however you will notice that you cannot slide the dump pipe off the top studs because the support bracket is blocking the movement. And you cannot rotate the dumpipe away from the support brackets because of the studs at the top. If you look closely the only way to remove these supports is to remove the aircon and get access to the bolts that bolt the supports onto the block. Hence the next step. End of my day 2
Step by Step my day 3
- To remove the studs you use the two nuts the 14mm and the 17mm to lock together then you can undo the stud quite easily.
- I had problems with the studs not being long enough to fit both nuts on. So I ground down the 14mm nut to about half its original width, in particular removing the flange which had no thread on it. You might need to clean up the thread after grinding it. I did this by threading on the side I didn’t grind onto an M10x1.25 bolt. I threaded the bolt right through the nut which cleaned up the thread.
- Practice on the top ones first, thread on the 17mm nut all the way and then back off a turn or two.
- Thread on the 14mm nut you have ground down.
- Use something like a screw driver to hold/jam the 17mm nut while you tighten down the 14mm nut. This will jam then together. Make sure you don’t end up jamming the nuts back up against the dump pipe. You need them to lock together on the stud alone.
- I then used a 17mm socket/ring spanner on the 17mm nut and this will undo the stud. This is where you need the 17mm socket you have to fit inside the depressions around the studs on the dump pipe.
- The top 5 should again be pretty easy, the troublesome one is the stud in the elbow of the old dump pipe.
- Again the ones at the back might be a bit hard to get to with a socket spanner. however you should be able to use a full size 14mm nut and the 14mm nut you ground down with a 14 mm ring spanner on these. using a similar technique, lock them together and unscrew the inner nut.
- After you get them out, screw some of them back in again to share the weight of the dump pipe while you undo the others.
- I use a small screw driver to jam the 17mm nut
- Screwed the 14mm nut onto it and locked them together again. Then again using the 17mm socket the stud came out. You will need to do a bit of juggling with the oil dip stick pipe again as there is even less room as you unscrew the stud. But it can be done.
- This should now mean you have all the studs loose and they can be removed with somebody else helping support the dump pipe.
- By lifting it up a bit you can lift the dump pipe away from the midpipe at the bottom.
- Now I was able to drop the dump pipe out the bottom of the engine.
- It looks like it wont fit, however as I was trying to undo some of the other nuts, the dump pipe latterly fell out the bottom of the engine. You need to rotate it anticlockwise (as you look at it from the top) as it drops down in order for it to clear the radiator and the air con compressor.
This is how I did it. Worst comes to worst you can remove the air con and other ancillaries if you strike problems. However if you can do it without causing other headaches I recon it is worth a go.
Good luck
Ben
Last edited by OnAll-FOUR; 24-09-2007 at 07:20 PM.
Ben #400 - My Ride Thread - Now with CT20b -
1990 ST185 JDM, 103.0kws July 06 --> 155.9kws Feb 2010
WSID: [email protected] (Weak) : Wakefield 1:16.1 Racechrono
Pics - http://photobucket.com Vids - http://www.youtube.com
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or tur
Cheers Ben, I´ll do the one on my 205 in the next week or so and report back on the job with any differences.
Thanks buddy.
Anthony
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or tur
No probs, I made a small edit about removig the studs at the back near the oil cooler. you might find it hard to use the 17mm socket in there, you can use two of the 14mm nuts and some ring spanners instead. Same idea though.
Ben #400 - My Ride Thread - Now with CT20b -
1990 ST185 JDM, 103.0kws July 06 --> 155.9kws Feb 2010
WSID: [email protected] (Weak
Pics - http://photobucket.com Vids - http://www.youtube.com
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or
im gonna hav to do this soon. really not lookin forward to it! but good write up.
when u installed the new dump pipe, how did u connect it to the midpipe? did u use a flex?
yes pics would be great!!
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or tur
wouldnt it be quicker to pull a/c and turbo away? sometimes you have to bite the bullet and pull more stuff off to make the job quicker.
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or
If you buy the Aussie one then it will have everything you need, they include an adaptor that you insert into the new dump pipe and this allows it to crush down onto the crush washer onto the standard 2.5 inch mid pipeOriginally Posted by Az_GT4
Last edited by OnAll-FOUR; 20-01-2008 at 09:51 AM.
Ben #400 - My Ride Thread - Now with CT20b -
1990 ST185 JDM, 103.0kws July 06 --> 155.9kws Feb 2010
WSID: [email protected] (Weak
Pics - http://photobucket.com Vids - http://www.youtube.com
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or tur
hey Ben good write up,
I didn't have nearly as much trouble removing my stock setup, as it had a couple of the uber nasty nuts/bolts not installed from whenever the engine was put back together. So relieved and some of the bolts just unscrewed as I was taking the nuts off. How lucky hey!
Glad to hear you got it all done too great work mate. I had to loosen my oil cooler ring too to just get a little clearance I needed, but this write up will cover everyone I reckon.
If you're going to do it yourself you've probably got enough handy skills to see what you might need to do different too I say!
Past: 1988 ST162 - RIP *cry* 1990 ST185 - not rob's anymore , '92 LS400, '02 Yamaha R6
Present: 1991 ST185 Group-A #148 - Gen III 3SGTE - 163atwkw - 13.4'' 1/4 Mile , 1981 BJ42
Rob | Constance | Just Stop & Think
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or tur
Ooops I never reported back on the 205 dump install.
Generally it is the same as you had it, bar a couple of differences.
ST205 has a remote oil filter so no need for the filter removal.
I didn't really need to remove the studs but the stock dump is a nightmare to worm out with the aircon pump, rad fans and the turbo making it near impossible. Removal of the radiator fans makes it relatively easy but being an alloy core it is damaged easily so be extra carefull. The stock dump weighs a tonn and it awekward to get out so damage to the rad is a real possibility...........
Thats it. Bens writeup is good advice and worth reading regardless of your mechanical knowledge. Well done buddy.
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or tur
Nice work ben, very good writeup.
I still maintain though that it's far quicker to just remove the whole turbo and do it that way, took me about 4 hours in total last time
Re: HOWTO - Removing Stock Dump pipe from ST185 Celica GT4 without removing aircon or
Its easier if you still have the standard manifold also if you are going to remove the turbo.....
i actually found with my aftermarket manifold it was easier just to remove the manifold from the head with the turbo still bolted up
1990 Aus Delivery ST185R
1997 ST215W
1990 ST184R
2003 ZZE123
2004 Lux
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