Can 1JZ injectors be changed without removing the intake manifold?

[JZA70 R]

I apologise if this has been covered before, but a search failed to yield any results.

Im changing my injectors and after a quick look at the working area, it looks like its possible to change the injectors without removing the intake manifold, however the plastic case that holds the engine loom inside the runners looks like the only thing obstructing removal.

Can the injectors be changed with minimal effort?

I have actually removed them before but that was with the intake off while doing other work.

I remember it being a simple exercise with the intake off, as its just a few 10mm bolts holding the injectors in the rail with a retainer plate.

Thanks.

[Norbie]

It may be possible but I have a feeling it would be quicker overall if you take the plenum off, it's not much effort to remove it?

[JZA70 R]

i have nightmares of removing it the first time. so i was hoping not too. maybe i was doing it the wrong way

[big_zop]

It can be done, check your email...

[whatthe?]

I got my fuel rail out pretty easily after removing the throttle body and ISCV

[Hybrid]

It can be done, check your email...

Can you post up the process here to help others out also?

[JZA70 R]

1JZ Injector Removal

Here is how I got the injectors out:

IMPORTANT:!!! Remove the EFI fuse and crank car for a few seconds to lose the pressure in the fuel rail!!

What you need to remove:
1) ISCV: Need to remove the blow off valve return pipe, wiring harness and a couple of hoses. I found it easier to leave one of the hard to get hoses on the ISCV and just move it to the side.

2) Throttle body: Intake pipe, wiring harness and a few hoses. I replaced the TB with a non TRC one while I was there.

3) Throttle/kickdown cable bracket: Remove it from the inlet manifold and put to the side.

4) Take off this: It was in the way.

5) Remove the two outer bolts from the injector retaing plate and just back off the middle one so it can swivel. At this time, the plastic that covers the loom under the manifold is in the way, I removed the 3 x 10mm bolts holding it to the manifold so it can be moved out of the way a bit. It won't come out all the way though.

6) Take off the vacuum line to the brake booster, strut brace, a short breather that goes from the manifold to the cam cover, injector clips, the vacuum line that goes to the turbo pressure sensor and a couple of wiring clips on sensors on the manifold and head.

6)Lever the injectors out gently. There is not a lot of room to work on the rear three injectors, they are a pain in the ass. Injector pic: There are two o-rings and two insulators/dampers (top and bottom) per injector:


Installation is as easy (Hard ) as removal. The insulators on the injectors can fall off. Dip the injectors in some fuel to lubricate the o-rings or use a bit of rubber grease. Be care full not to lose the insulators off the top of the injectors.

Part numbers:
O-ring 1: 90301-14006 X 6
O-ring 2: 90301-17007 X 6
Insulator/damper: 23291-75010 X 12

Part numbers were found here:
http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubD...ig%2022-11.pdf

NOTES: You will lose a bit of coolant fron the hoses that go to the throttle body so be prepared to possibly re-bleed the cooling system.

Clean the area aroung the injectors first, you don't want crap falling in there.

Double check all bolts are tight.

Be prepared to swear a lot!!

Hope this helps out

Cheer Brad.

Picked the O-rings up from Toyota today. All up I paid $49 for 12 o-rings and the 12 insulators, they are the right ones too

Cheers Brad.

Thanks big zop, gives some insight. Ill update this thread with how i go...

[big_zop]

The only reason why i didnt post it up was that i didnt do it - was a tech article from the Cressida Forums.

[Norbie]

I had the plenum on and off my 2JZ lots of times while I was doing the fuel rail conversion, it didn't take long at all for me? I would have thought the 1JZ would be pretty similar in that regard.

[JZA70 R]

Ill give it a go, if it gets too hard ill take the plenum off.

[chris davey]

I asked this ages ago. Could have been old forums actually. People said you can do it. I couldn't and my fingers are pretty small. I had a spare engine to check where all the nuts are so I just pulled the plenum off and left the wiring attached, swung it to the side. Pulled fuel rail out and did it on the bench.

And even with the rail on the bench, the injectors needed a fair bit of elbow grease to get them out. It would be difficult/impossible for me in the space provided with 2 fingers only.

I vote take plenum off. As Norbie said, doesn't take too long.

[3BarSuperstar]

Be careful about taking the injectors out of the rail while it's still attached to the manifold as all the fuel in the rail will drain into the the ports and possibly into the cylinder if the valve is open. Then when you go to start it you could bend a rod!! Seen this happen on a SR20 motor.
Either drain the rail or pull it out. I'd pull it out myself. If you've already pulled them out and the fuel has run into the cylinders take the plugs out and wind it over till all the fuel is out.
Disconnect the crank sensor or something so you wont get any chance of a spark.

[big_zop]

IMPORTANT:!!! Remove the EFI fuse and crank car for a few seconds to lose the pressure in the fuel rail!!

Dont think this would be sufficient?

[ReQuieM]

Definitely possible. I've done it three times now. First time with the cam covers off, the next two with them on. There is pics of it happening in my build thread on SF, I can post them here if anyone would like to see them.

[ReQuieM]

eh fk it, I can't be bothered doing work anyway. Here you go;