I'll remove the centre this week for diagnosis, and definately tack some baffles into the housing (gonna be fun getting in there with the Mig or Tig torch)
Thanks
lash is the amount of play between the 2 gears and is adjusted differently to how the pinion rides on the crown.Originally Posted by allencr
if i knew how to set them then id tell you what needs to be done but unfortunately its not something ive ever bothered doing myself, i just give them to the experts.
1jz rolla, take it back to whoever did it and tell them its noisey, if you ran it in proply they should fix it. just dont tell them there are no baffles in the diff housing. while the centre is away being fixed just make up some baffles or get some out of a YR22 diff and tack them in place, should be all that is needed.
the 3s-rolla copped an absolute hammering at oran for 2 full days (and $1200 worth of rear tyres) and i never had a diff related problem so obviously they worked well enough.
or GTs method of exhaust tubing to extend the diff tubes further into the centre thus creating a one way valve kind of setup.
i also moved my filler up 15mm for more oil capacity so this may have helped to.
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
I'll remove the centre this week for diagnosis, and definately tack some baffles into the housing (gonna be fun getting in there with the Mig or Tig torch)
Thanks
TIG them, stronger and no major cleanup like a mig.
just use a cut down tungsten and a really short back cap = easy to get in.
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Thanks. If it wasn't synthetic, it wouldn't change color very much at all, except when burnt or really old and/or when full of contaminants. I don't know what your brand of stuff will do. I'd try a few drops on the stove if I was really curious. Old axle housings usually have a buildup of old congealed dino oil like thick grease in the tubes, and if it wasn't cleaned really well, that stuff would probably discolor any fresh oil.Originally Posted by 1JZ-Rolla
The diff was super clean, cause I'd washed the housing out before welding the new brackets on for the conversion.
did you have the housing checked to ensure it is straight? i get them straightened b4 and after welding on brackets as the pull like all fick.
the reason i get them done b4 is to ensure they are straight to start with rather than putting the brackets on the wrong angle.
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
yep, all good there.
s'pose i'll have to check again after welding in baffles?
nah, not if you only putting in small amounts of heat in it. just make sure you put the welds on opposite sides so whatever shrinkage you do get it will be equal over the whole diff.
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Pretty sure MS112 diff housing has baffles you could steal.
Bookmarks