Water to Air intercoolers...input needed

[79GT]

hey guys i am contemplating going this way with my 3tgte in my ta22. i am wondering if anyone has gone down this path, or has any experience with water to air coolers.

first up i have a cooler box from a 1ggte as my base starting point.
My questions are...
1. What water pump could be used....
2.How would it be set upt to run....
3. After the car sits in the sun, the cooler water would be dam hot....wouldnt it???

My thoughts
1. i have a high flow low pressure fuel lift pump that i was going to use for my surge tank but just decided to keep my tank no less than half full. (i like the boot space).
Can i use this...

2 What triggers the pump, or do i set it up so it always runs....or use one of the following:
- a boost switch (when boost kicks in the water flows.
- an air temp switch (temp previouse to the cooler box, after a certain temp, pump kicks
in....but what temp.
- a water temp switch in the cooler box circulates the water when it gets to hot.

have heard of all, but wondering which is the most effective??? any comments.

The water in the system would heat up, (especially in the cooler) and i would imagine i would have issues in that regard, and its hot in Australia....and i am thinking that this may do more damage than good, i probly could set up a divert for the air flow past the cooler to activate manually after its been sitting in the sun for a while.

Your feedback would be awesome. cheeers all

Jamie

[Norbie]

Don't be concerned about the sun heating up the coolant, the amount of heat this will put into it will be orders of magnitude smaller than the heat generated by your turbo.

The pump should be triggered by the temperature of the coolant in the heat exchanger box. There's no point circulating coolant if the heat exchanger is already cool.

[The Real Roadrunner]

personally id try to get an ST205 cooler as they are a better design (and probly be easier to fit) but its up to you.

run the biggest pump you can, ewp80 is what i use.

i run the pump at 5v constant then switch to 9v once the MAP is above 5psi.

the bigger the front heat exchanger the better but make sure you don't go too big as it will affect airflow to your radiator.

the above is the way i would do it but alot of ppl have differing opinions

if you want to go "budget style" then get a S/H heat exchanger and pump off an RS liberty or similar and use that, most ppl wire then to 12v ign on as they dont flow alot of fluid and can heatsoak a core while just cruising.

cheers
linden

PS if you want to have a good read go to the ARE website as it has some good info to get you off the ground.

[RonRob]

St205 cores are bolt on for a 3sgte. Pm me if you are intested in one as I am selling my St205 core for 350US.

Thanks
Ron

[Norbie]

St205 cores are bolt on for a 3sgte.

He has a 3T-GTE though.

[79GT]

cheers for the input guys, but i think i will stick with the cooler i have got, atleast for the time being till i suss out the whole water to air concept.

roadrunner, the only issue i have with increasing the waterflow is that my ecu is run off an afm, and i am not quite sure how i could set up this same concept without one. if i am missing a blatently obviouse concept please bring it to my attention, otherwise....other possible ideas. cheers for the input guys. Jamie.

[79GT]

plus that norbie.... and where would i set up the temp sensor in the cooler though to activate the pump, or should i go with constant movement and then increased voltage when temp goes up. cheers for the advice guys.

could i use my fuel lifter pump. its handles the whole sucking concept and is high volume....if i put it after the front cooler it should suck nicely shouldnt it.....

[Duk]

I wouldn't go using a fuel pump as a circulation pump, it'll probably short out . Designed for petrol not electricity conducting water based coolant.

2 things you could do for a higher flow trigger method.
1: use a variable voltage switch wired to the AFM to trigger full flow at a set voltage (Jaycar sell a simple electronic 1) .
2: a simple micro switch that triggers from the throttle body. Kinda like a nitros switch but switches at say 50% throttle.

Jaycar also do a simple variable speed control device for 12 volt motors that can handle 10amps. Prolly the nicest way to have a lower circulation speed than having a hot resister in the wiring.

[79GT]

ok then, so i am looking at investing in a water pump...best place to get these....a 12volt one specifically.

so a switch that is controlled by the afm. hence when the afm is all the way open, the pump is going full ball, and when it's half, the pump is going steady.
woudl it be a mechanical switch, or would i be able to tap into the afm wire, that i am assuming varies voltage when the flap is at different positions....or would that bugger with the ECU's signal.

so the variable voltage switch would go to the variable speed controller, or is this a completely seperate concept, going down the manual setting figures.....as in if i am driving it hard, i will crank up the pump speed, or if i am driving it nice, i wind it down....

Jamie.

[Norbie]

Stupid question, but what's wrong with an air-to-air intercooler? I've seen plenty of TA22's with these so they obviously fit, and it's way easier/cheaper than messing about with pumps and reservoirs and such.

[rick q]

Why complicate it all with varying the speed of the pump running. They only draw about 120 watts - all the other bibs and bobs are just potential sources of failure. At least it'd mean the water would be as cool as it could be.

Google has a lot of info if you are patient and persistent. There's also a lot of info here :- http://www.are.com.au/Inter/air_to_water.htm

[79GT]

fair call. that may be the way to go to get it all up and running. the only problem i have heard of that associates with that is the pumps burnout. but hey, i guess i dont do that long a drives, so i doubt i will have a problem. and i could have a manual overide switch, so when i am sitting in traffic for bulk time it could just shut it off.

thanks for the input guys i do appreciate it. although if any one else has input, happy to here it.

[Duk]

ok then, so i am looking at investing in a water pump...best place to get these....a 12volt one specifically.

so a switch that is controlled by the afm. hence when the afm is all the way open, the pump is going full ball, and when it's half, the pump is going steady.
woudl it be a mechanical switch, or would i be able to tap into the afm wire, that i am assuming varies voltage when the flap is at different positions....or would that bugger with the ECU's signal.

so the variable voltage switch would go to the variable speed controller, or is this a completely seperate concept, going down the manual setting figures.....as in if i am driving it hard, i will crank up the pump speed, or if i am driving it nice, i wind it down....

Jamie.

Variable voltage switch: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...=&SUBCATID=347
Motor Speed Controller: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...=&SUBCATID=347

Basically the idea would be, when the ignition is switched on, the circulation pump would be powered via the motor speed controller and operate at a lower speed. When a pre set voltage signal trips the Variable voltage switch, it closes a relay that sends 12 volts direct to the circulation pump, bypassing the motor speed control and runs the pump flat out. The VVS could be substituted by a pressure switch or a thottle body mounted micro switch.

Hope that helps

[79GT]

ahh now i get it. cheers mate. once i get it all the mechanical bits set up that sounds like the way to go in refining the system. cheers.

[legend]

i have got a liberty w2a yet to be fitted for mine i want to run the
sideshowperformancewiring 3 in 1 digital gauge and fan controller might be a good
setup i'l dial in the temp and get it to control the pump and a small thermo when idling or a short burst to keep the temps in check