Brake Line Fittings!?

[Smokey228]

Hey guys, just wondering about brake lines on my celica!

Its an RA23, so the chassis fitments are standard type ones...
The Front calipers are LN106? Hilux 4 spots.
Rear calipers are *A70
Rear diff is Hilux RN25? type

Now i need to buy brake lines, but want to find out if the fittings on all these vary?

Will i need to have, for example, fitting 1 for the celica front chassis and fitting 2 for the hilux calipers, than on the rear fitting 2 for the hilux diff and fitting 1 for celica chassic, than fitting 2 for hilux diff and fitting 3 for supra calipers?

Hope this makes sense, will clean it up some when i have more time!

Cheers,
Jase

P.S. +rep for first person to give me a correct answer!

[MWP]

Fiitings are all the same (that includes the xA70 rear and Hilux front calipers).
Cant tell you the size/type/name though.
I can tell you that there are long & short versions of the connectors, and youll want the long ones.

Cut one off an old brake line (old diff?) and take it into a brake shop... ask for a heap of the same.

Make sure you double-flare the pipe ends.

[auto351]

Jase,

Are you running new steel brake lines around the car or re-using the exitsting ones?

manny

[Smokey228]

Thanks MWP! I know which ones your describing, they certainly fit them all, but i wasnt sure if they were exactly the same or not...

Manny,
Depends how cheap i can get braided lines. I would love to run braided, but cant afford atm.
Unless there is a decent kit for cheap, or someone who makes some decent ones and doesnt charge an arm and a leg i probably wont do it...



ALSO, with the standard celica solid clutch line fitting, is that the same as the fitting for the r154? And the same for the brake lines all round?
I.E. Can i just get 6 lines made up and then use them for; Front Brakes, Clutch Line, Chassis to Diff, Rear Brakes?

ALSO, lol, If i have to use a somewat long clutch line, (has to go over the top of the gear box because the w50 slave cylinder was on opposite side of r154), and im running a Twin Plate Clutch, (not sure of how heavy it is, but its a Gilken race series) should i make atleast that clutch line braided? Or should i have a solid line made up to bring the valve to the correct side of the car?

I ask because i am unsure of how much flex i will have in that length of line with clutch pressure, will it be a problem or not?

Cheers,
Jase

[DoctorDubb]

In the setup with are 1g into an ra28 its the same problem w50 on drivers side and the w58 is on the passengers side. I bought some bundy tube and ran it along from the brake master to a point on the passenger side then a flex line down to the w58 slave. Once i had modded the bundy tube into the right shape - using a wheel brace and two pieces of wood to bend it so i didnt crimp the line at all (guy at the brake store said it was the best home job hes ever seen lol). I got them to double flare it for $15 an end.
This is the best pic ive got:

At the time this seemed like the logical way of doing it rather then have a huge flex line over the potentially hot engine. I was too afraid that it might introduce to much flex.

EDIT: NCOP brake ruling is here if your planning on getting engineered under NCOP. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roa...s_3Feb2006.pdf .Gave it a quick read but i couldnt see 'braided lines' but states the it must be bundy tube and must be double flared. Also 'hoses, cables ets' must be mounted away from excessive heat so over the engine hose is probably not the best idea. Also any brake component/line must comply to a international standard.

[TooF]

sorry to hijack why whilst were on the the topic of brake line fittings.

i min the process of changing the braking system in my aw11 and need to put in a new proportioning valve.

ive got a wilwood ds488 which has 1/8 #27 NPT fittings on it. my inital plan was to simply get two adaptors from the toyota fitting to the 1/8" and just put it inplace of the stock valve.

does this seem reasonable, saves hvaing to make excessive ammount of new pipe, plus the replacement valve is about the same dimensions and pipe positions as the stock unit.

if so what is the spec of the toyota fitting so i know what to ask for without sounding like a dill ahhaha (or getting the wrong thing)

edit: it also comes with a 1/8" #27 NPT to 3/8 #24 inverted flair fitting adaptors as well (these are dont fit into the toyota hard line either) so im jsut not 100% sure what i should be chasing in terms of fitment.

[Smokey228]

In the setup with are 1g into an ra28 its the same problem w50 on drivers side and the w58 is on the passengers side. I bought some bundy tube and ran it along from the brake master to a point on the passenger side then a flex line down to the w58 slave. Once i had modded the bundy tube into the right shape - using a wheel brace and two pieces of wood to bend it so i didnt crimp the line at all (guy at the brake store said it was the best home job hes ever seen lol). I got them to double flare it for $15 an end.
This is the best pic ive got:

At the time this seemed like the logical way of doing it rather then have a huge flex line over the potentially hot engine. I was too afraid that it might introduce to much flex.

EDIT: NCOP brake ruling is here if your planning on getting engineered under NCOP. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roa...s_3Feb2006.pdf .Gave it a quick read but i couldnt see 'braided lines' but states the it must be bundy tube and must be double flared. Also 'hoses, cables ets' must be mounted away from excessive heat so over the engine hose is probably not the best idea. Also any brake component/line must comply to a international standard.

Can you give me more detailed info on this Bundy tube? Where to get it? What it costs?

Cheers,
Jase

[MWP]

Can you give me more detailed info on this Bundy tube? Where to get it? What it costs?
Cheers,
Jase

Again, go to your closest brake shop and buy lengths from them.
They will have it and wont sell you bundy thats illegal.

From memory i paid ~$20 for a 5m length.

[DoctorDubb]

I got 2m of bundy tube from Odins Auto (just a local place like Coventrys) it cost me $10 total. So any brake/clutch place should have it at probably ~$5/m. Make sure tis bundy tube and not copper tube, as this will fracture over time although being a lot easier to bend.

To straighten it out 'off the roll', grab a big block of wood and drill a hole straight through it. Then gently pull the bundy tub through a few times and you end up with a straight length.

[MWP]

Copper tube would also be very illegal.... for obvious reasons.