1ggte getting hot then loosing all power

[Kyosho]

yeah that would have to be in millibar.

Been back down this morning and trying to put the thing in limp mode to set the timing properly. Bridge the terminals and you can definantly tell its done something as it drops the revs straight away but then the engine compensates and brings the idle back up. I must have a vacuum leak somewhere :S.

When you're setting your base idle, you ARE disconnecting the TPS and idle valve right?

Also, does the computer think that the air con is turned on (This raise idle up how you say) or is there meant to be an automatic transmission on the car?

[CrUZida]

WTF?

Disconnecting the TPS and ISCV? Are you joking?

The ECU NEEDS the TPS connected.
Make sure the TPS has the IDL contact closed, make sure the ISCV has power and is clean, make sure there are NO leaks between the AFM and the head, and the computer will take care of the rest.

If you have an idle screw (gen1's and gen2's do, but I don't think gen3's do), then get the engine warm, jump TE1 and E1, set the timing to 10deg BTDC, and then adjust the idle screw to 800rpm (assuming you have checked the IDL contact etc). Then pull the jumper out and don't touch again for a while.

[wa5]

Thats a myth that is very much un-true.
Water flowing too quickly will not cause a car to overheat.

Hate to harp on about this, but every Mechanic I have spoken to reckons it does. If it is a myth, it is certainly a well traveled and long lived one, and it would seem logical to me.

Is a Radiator from a 1.5 litre N/A 4cyl excel really going to be sufficient to cool a 2 litre 6 cyl turbo engine pushing a heavier car?

[Gttwinturbomk3]

What blow off valve have you got is it set correctly? Maybe its not holding properly. that will cause major vacuum problems etc.

[MWP]

Hate to harp on about this, but every Mechanic I have spoken to reckons it does. If it is a myth, it is certainly a well traveled and long lived one, and it would seem logical to me.

We went over this recently:
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31127

[stidnam]

All the aircon wires on the engine loom are still there but disconnected. The car is manual and so was the donor car and I have a m/t ecu.

I don't have a blowoff valve on it. I've also been over and rechecked all the vacuum hoses for the 100th time and nothing leaking that I can see/hear/feel .

The idle screw won't adjust any further down and I still can't get the revs down. Everything seems to be connected properly.

A lot of other people are using the excel radiator as well. Before I blame the radiator for the overheating issue I want to get the timing right and take it for another run.

I'm still somewhat suspicious of the dizzy. When I got the motor it was misaligned and I have this whining noise coming from the front somewhere. Its not the water pump or the alternator or the belt that runs them. Also checked the timing belt and fail to see how its that. I wouldn't mind trying another dizzy out in the car. Does anyone have a spare one I can borrow?

stidnam

[love ke70]

its not a manifold leak is it?
although you are getting healthy enough vacuum...

[CrUZida]

The idle screw won't adjust any further down and I still can't get the revs down. Everything seems to be connected properly.

Forgot to mention.
Before you set the TPS to read IDL correctly, you have to make sure its 100% closed (ie, adjust the throttle stops to make sure the butterfly closes completely, ie makes a seal).

With the butterfly 100% closed, all the idle air goes through the ISCV, and the ECU is able to regulate the idle to what ever it likes.

With the butterfly a bit open, then ISCV does not have full control over the idle.

If the hose going to the ISCV is soft enough, get a pair of pliers and squeeze it closed.
If the idle drops or the motor stalls, its probably operating correctly.
If the idle doesn't change, then the throttle plate is not closing fully.

If the ISCV hose isn't supple enough, remove it and block both ends where it connects.


Idle trouble shooting is a bitch to find whats wrong, but once you set everything correctly, it won't need touching for a couple of years.

[stidnam]

Well I went down to test that out and I'm about to go and get a car loan now. This is fucked. I hate 1g's and I don't care much for my celica right now.

The latest new symptom is an exhaust full of water and a puddle of water all over my garage floor.

[CrUZida]

Sounds like its BHG'd from overheating too many times (or perhaps that one where it got real hot).

Another motor can be sourced for under $800 easy.

[stidnam]

Could it just be turbo seals?

Ever since I had the motor it would puff a heap of grey/white smoke at start up and the wall against the exhaust was always a little wet after I had run it in the garage for awhile. At that time IN 05 NT and I did a c02 and pressure test on the coolant system and it came back ok.

So ever since I've had it its been doing that even before the Botany run. Theres also been a hissing sound that can be heard around the turbo area when the motor is turned off at normal operating temp. Its just today that theres now a whole pool of water

Either way maybe I should bin the lot and buy a 3sgte :S or even dare I say part the car.

[CrUZida]

If turbo seals were blown (ie, the water cooling bit), you'd have one hell of a puffy white smoke machine all the time.

Puff at start up is usually valve stem seals (common on import motors).


Find the problem before making any decisions.

[IN 05 NT]

u do have that single kit.....hint hint, nudge nudge

[stidnam]

well after a few drinks I have come up with a masterpiece

[love ke70]

ohh yeahhh
another "teh evil 1g" thread.

ive been there done that dude. im still persisting