Have you checked your pulley?Originally Posted by Gttwinturbomk3
You sure its not something simple like it overfueling? Boost leak or something similar? I am guessing your not getting any error codes from the ecu?
Have you checked your pulley?Originally Posted by Gttwinturbomk3
Yeah I have just had the front cover off checked all the match marks again and the pulley seems ok. Haven't checked the crank gear but when it went back on it was nice and tight over the key.
I'm going to check the dizzy again. I'm still convinced its a timing problem with maybe a poorly bled coolant system.
Overfuelling shouldn't do it. My car drove to Sydney on like 9.5:1, no overheating issues at all.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
I would have thought over fueling would help cool the engine more. I was also thinking/leaning towards some type of ignition thing. And like someone else said before "the plug under neith the plenum" your knock sensor plug, check that out etc.
Also, would it hurt to completely replace all the spark plugs. But it is odd about how you are setting the timing and having issues with that.
Good luck.
the plugs are all new,
the knock sensors are in the block, theres 2 of em,
the sensor in the bottom of the plenum is the air temp,
bellow that, theres the butterflies, and actuators,
Yeah the plugs are brand new platinum items from toyota.
I checked the knock sensors last night and they are still both plugged in properly.
Pulled all the front off last night and the dizzy. The timing belt match marks line up. There is no way they are out a tooth.
Tried pulling the cap of the dizzy last night to no avail. Pulled the 2 bolts out but all the pulling and twisting and tapping did nothing to assist in getting that bastard off the dizzy.
I did find that my gasket on the intake pipe to the throttle body is broken in two places. I'm going to fix that tonight. Maybe its been part of the idle problem. I'm going to clean the throttle body and the ISCV again and see how that goes.
Anyone got anything else. Even if I can fix my high idle I'll be happy.
high idle is probably vacuum leak somewhere.
being half a tooth, or a tooth out on timing wont make the car dog like you are describing.
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
Air temp sensor? DO those Ecu's have a Shut down system in place when they read too hot for intake temps? I thought the 3 series engines did, so assume the 1g might also?
11.72 @ 116.7mph = Quickest Stock Turbo Jzz30 series Soarer And 1st into the 11's WOOOT!!!
Still going good
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Hmmm can anyone confirm the intake temp thing?
I have assembled everything again now, been over all the vacuum lines, cleaned the throttle body out and pulled the ISCV apart again.
I even thought for a moment that I had connected the cold start and temp sensors around the wrong way but nope.
When the engine is idling around 1200 the vacuum is around -450 to -500. At 800 - 900rpm when its retarded its around -450. Is this the usual vacuum?
Last edited by stidnam; 19-01-2008 at 10:45 AM.
air temp sensor is in the AFM, it will still see fairly cool air if your intake is suffering from heat soak
never heard of a 1G ECU turning off the engine due to the heat.
what measurement is that vac in? i was trying to work out what it was in in hg to compare to what mine used to run.
cheers, andrew
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
thats in bar on the apexi gauge I believe unless the apexi reads different in vacuum than it does in boost.
I figure if I can get this idle right then I can take it out again properly timed to see if it'll overheat again.
If the dizzy was out a tooth could it cause the idle to be higher at +10 than if it was set correctly or would it be totally out and not be anywhere near the timing marks?
stidnam
would be nowhere near the marks, trust me, ive had my 1g running with the dizzy at least 1 tooth at, about 30 degrees advanced at idle.
sounded tough
and im assuming thats millibar, and converts to around 13 or 14 in hg which sounds about right.
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
yeah that would have to be in millibar.
Been back down this morning and trying to put the thing in limp mode to set the timing properly. Bridge the terminals and you can definantly tell its done something as it drops the revs straight away but then the engine compensates and brings the idle back up. I must have a vacuum leak somewhere :S.
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