I had mine knife edged. Still running in the motor but windage should be minimal. I have a Moroso oil pan with crank scraper and windage tray, with Pauter Machine x beam rods.
hey guys, cheers for the help, ended up getting a braided line attached to a banjo bolt, all works beautifully.
cheers.
I had mine knife edged. Still running in the motor but windage should be minimal. I have a Moroso oil pan with crank scraper and windage tray, with Pauter Machine x beam rods.
TE-72 (T-18) w/3tgteu fully built
Haltech e6x direct fire/sequential
ae-86 (levin) footwork
TE-71 w/1uzfe
Autronics SM4
Are they nessesary? Or did you you just go above and beyond?Originally Posted by turbotoy
Another question. Every build thread on the 3TGTE i have read recommends head studs, when i told my engineer mate he asked me why. His opinion is that head studs may invite another point of failure as you have have another set of threads to stretch. Im not savvy enough yet to argue that with him. So whats the final word on head studs?
And has no one run a 3tgte on gas? 116 octane......loves forced induction!!!
Time to revive the 28.
You don't really need the oil pan but why not. Holds an extra two quarts, comes with a really nice windage tray/crank scraper, my oil temps never get above 95C and I don't have an oil cooler.Originally Posted by RAIncarnated
All the really fast cars I have ever seen run studs. The 3tc in Puerto Rico all the really fast Hondas look at most of your fast V8s. I used a set of Mitsubishi studs from a Starion motor and had my bolt holes milled down .750". Studs offer more clamping force than bolts do. There are other reasons but that is what I can come up with off the top of my head.
TE-72 (T-18) w/3tgteu fully built
Haltech e6x direct fire/sequential
ae-86 (levin) footwork
TE-71 w/1uzfe
Autronics SM4
Head studs allow better clamping and IMO the Toyota head bolts are as easy as piss to stretch - if you get detonation with a reasonable amount of boost, the stock head gasket (even with O rings) is in for the shortest lifespan known to man - including those who own 7M's.
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
if that was his answer i suggest finding a new engineer mate as he obviously has no idea.Originally Posted by RAIncarnated
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Hey guys, was wondering if someone could help me out. I have got my engine running and it idles nice. however i have light blue smoke pouring out the back of the turbo (ct26) . i have spark with all plugs, clean oil (quite thin....wanted to lube it all up on its first run 15-W40..cheep stuff not intended to last longer than a week) I havent checked compression or timing but the car idles nice, i doubt my timing is perfect but it wouldnt be WAY out.
any advice would be great guys. i have a feeling the turbo oil seals are completely shot. if someone can confirm that would be great, furthermore...is it worth it and how do i change the oil seals on a ct26.....cheers guys,
Jamie
Jamie,
Blue smoke is indicitive of t burning oil but it could be from the turbo or the engine itself. Bring it up to temp and take it for a run and see if it clears. It could just be residual oil in the system.
Jase or Timtams is best to answer your CT26 question, they can make quite good power but there is always better options.
1971 2T-B Celica TA22 ST.
1973 2T-G Celica TA22, aka "The Unicorn".
1975 2T-G Celica TA27 GT
1976 2T-G Celica TA23, aka "The Colonel".
1985 3F Auto FJ62 Landcruiser
1989 7M-GTE MA70 Supra, aka "The Poopra"
History: Rods Classic Celica Sampler thread.
cheeers, i had it up to temp, and the oil was still being pumped out, although it was at a lesser rate.....so not to sure. i dont think it is coming from the engine, as it is only really started pumping out the smoke since i put the new high pressure oil line on, (previous to this the turbo had a bit of oil already in it, but i was only idling the motor....no spooling)
is it reasonably easy to replace the oil seals....or does it mean a complete rebuild....cheers Jamie
Thanks for the answers guys. Ill probably have a few more as parts are arriving in a few weeks.
How much of the 2T timing components are usable on the 3TGTE, guides etc......
Just to rebut The Real Roadrunners comment, it was a passing comment by my engineer friend that i may have translated to the page incorrectly. we were discussing other applications as well, and to quote ARP themselves...
The question is always asked, which is better, cylinder head studs or bolts? The answer, invariably, depends on the installation.
Time to revive the 28.
Installation = stock atmo motor = std head bolts.
Installation = getting serious = head studs.
To quote Corky Bell "a head bolt is an accountants decision, a head stud is an engineers decision".
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
Jas,Originally Posted by YelloRolla
would it be possible to replace head bolts to studs one at a time or is it better to just to take the whole lot out and replace?
Cheers,
Neil.
RA40 3t-gte. Haltech fitted.
Power - 229hp at 17psi![]()
Toyota Nationals 2013, Easter Long Weekend, Dubbo, NSW
http://www.toyota-nationals.org.au/
Neil,
With the head studs that I have, you need to remove the head, drill the bolt holes out to 13.5mm and fit the studs. SO to recap - head off, disassemble head, drill, clean, re-assemble head and re-fit.
The reason here is that I had the studs made with 1/2" unf top threads.
Jas
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
We should probably list any part numbers and or local/international supplier for any bits we find.
I for one would like to know what the part #'s for a full ARP bolt kit would be (Yes im will be using HeadStuds) and where i can get them at a reasonable price.
I'd also like to know where i can get 87mm wiseco slugs, as i can get the 87mm arias from Paradise Racing for under $600 landed, SPS are up around the $1400 mark. So I'd like to compare since rod mentioned he is favorable towards the Wiseco's.
Stuart Wilkins Motorsport has the 2TG timing gear (guides, tensioners etc....) which im assured is suitable for the 3tg.
Please keep adding if you think of something.
Time to revive the 28.
As far as I know ARP doesn't make them for the 2tg/3tg. That is why I went the route I went.
TE-72 (T-18) w/3tgteu fully built
Haltech e6x direct fire/sequential
ae-86 (levin) footwork
TE-71 w/1uzfe
Autronics SM4
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