3T GTE Tech

[NME308]

Hi Josh,
Opinions are cheap so here is mine.

The 3TC guys in the US and South America use the 4Y crank to stroke the 3TC a little further. Some get good results and others suggest the 4Y crank does not balance too well etc... There 'may' have been a few forged stroker cranks getting around in the late 90's early 2000's at the peak of the 3TC popularity also. The opposite trick is to bolt the 3TC head onto a 4Y bottom end for 2.2L goodness. I would imagine the twin cam gear would all swap over to a 4Y bottom end with some care.

Next up however is do you feel the need to stroke the 3TGTE for any particular power goals or just a personal gratification achievement? There are some stinking quick 3TGTE powered vehicles around in the 1.8L configuration. At 190kmh + on a stock engine with bolt ons I'm pretty sure you do not need more speed since the result of a sudden stop against a hard object won't look very much different... Please keep uber high speed to the race track!

Given 400+RWHP obtained from the 1.8L engine there may not be a real need to stroke depending on your goals. If you wish to do so for whatever reason I believe you will be up for some pretty serious coin if you wish to make a bullet proof engine i.e. not just slap together a 4Y frankenmonster. Having said that a 4Y frankenmonster would give more torque and displacement for the benefit of spooling any given turbo quicker and in the right application could work well!

Cheers,
Jason

[Josh_TA22]

G'day Jason,

Firstly, I appreciate and agree with your response mate, sadly human nature allows the stupid and irresponsible side of us to rear its ugly head on occasions. Not that its really any better, but I wasn't doing those kind of speeds in suburban areas, merely a deserted straight bit of country road with no traffic. I was a few beverages up when typing last night and wasn't meaning to point out my stupidity, merely emphasizing how loud the detonation was for me to hear it over the engine screaming and the road noise at the time when it happened.

Back to the question at hand, I have to say this is the first time I've heard of putting the 3T head onto a 4Y bottom end, sounds like an interesting concept!
As with any build, personal gratification is always going to be a big influence, but I'm also interested to see how many Killer Wasps I can squeeze out of these old girls while keeping it responsive and reliable as a daily driver. The goal I have in mind is 300rwkw (reliably), I know this number is quite possible to reach with it still in 1.8l form but I'm unsure as to what the drive-ability would be like. No doubt I could be wrong but I see stroking as a way of doing that while still having good driveability.

I love the term "4Y frankenmonster" ha ha that's gold! However the only information I have found is that it is possible to stroke them with a 4Y crank but no where can I find whats involved
At this stage its just an idea that keeps niggling away at me.

Cheers Josh

[stidnam]

I've researched the 4TGTE and the race version is vastly different to the homolgation 4TGTE which is just a 3TGTE with a 0.5mm overbore, a 4TGTE sticker on the head inspection plate and a 4T prefix stamped on the engine number area.

Race version has 84mm stroke and a higher block height as it uses 137.5mm conrods compared to 123mm for the 3TGTE. You options in stroking the 3TGTE are to either source and use a 2TG Novamotor crank which has an 84mm stroke or use a 3Y/4Y crank. I can give you contact info on a company in the UK that makes a billet Novamotor crank but it would be very pricey. The 3Y/4Y crank is 86mm stroke and requires extensive mods to fit into a T series block. This has been done in Europe and the ride thread is here. Using a 3TGTE head on a 3Y/4Y block requires weld building up the head as the 3Y/4Y block is wider that the T series block so the head needs to be made wider to suit the wider block. Not a mod for the faint hearted or light pocketed.

Basically it can be done but be prepared for big dollars...

[Josh_TA22]

Thanks Stidnam,

At the end of the day its all going to come down to a benefit vs cost scenario. The question that's playing on my mind is how much of a benefit is it actually going to be?

I think I just found the contact you may be speaking of Stidnam, I've sent an email requesting specifications of the crank and price including delivery to NSW. It will be interesting to hear back from them as according to their website its looking to be around the $1700AUD without delivery

after a quick calculation, for the benefit of 150cc, I'm starting to think the cost is going to outweigh the benefit by a long shot, Whats your thoughts?

Cheers Josh

[stidnam]

bragging rights? priceless. Cost v performance? Probably cheaper to go a CA18DET/SR20DET/3SGTE/4AGTE which will give you an engine that is newer and parts are more available for.

Let us know how you go with the info you get back on the crank.

[AE25]

hay guys, i have been rebuilding a 3tgte to go into a kp61 starlet and when i got the motor it was in bits, i was hoping someone could help me fill in the missing bit of the puzzle, i need to know where all the vacuum lines ect, from the intake manifold go? any help will be appreciated, cheers, if theres anything else you need to know just ask Attachment 16711

Can you understand this? http://toycrazy.net/tech/pics/3tgtemissions.jpg
The important things are that D port on the throttle is connected to the distributor diaphragm and the fuel pressure regulator is connected to the inlet plenum.
Keep Pc S/W disconnected to remove fuel cut when raising boost beyond std. Pe S/W is fuel enrichment. Vac S/W is to do with knock control.
BVSV and VCV are to do with cold engine ignition advance which is mounted under the intake manifold. It'll will run without them but if you got em, use em.
Otherwise take pics of what you can't figure out and i'm sure we'll be able to assist.
I'm in Auckland btw if you need help/parts. join up club-k.co.nz since you have a kp starlet. plenty of us will be able to assist.

4y crank... i remember something about having to grind the crank to widen the center main bearing journal? fuzzy memory tho. from the days of toyota3tc.com

[stidnam]

Anyone got a base map for a megasquirt for a 3tgte? I know that engine variables ie compression ratio, boost, injectors, timing method etc will mean that the map wont be plug and play but I want to have a look at one to get an idea.

Will be using a MS3 with MS3X expansion card

[stidnam]

Anyone know what the thread is for the oil hard line bango fitting on the back of the 3tgte water/oil housing on the side of the head that feeds the turbo?

[w810sc]

Anyone know what the thread is for the oil hard line bango fitting on the back of the 3tgte water/oil housing on the side of the head that feeds the turbo?

The banjo bolt thread on the housing for the oil feed is 1.5.

Cheers.

[stidnam]

Sweet thanks

[Delano]

Hi Guys

i have a problem with my 3T-GTE when cranking the vehicle at first it use to backfire then starts idles for about 5 seconds then cuts out, i checked the cam timing marks, first of i found that there are 0 marks on the cam which one was on top and one was two teeth out, went on google as google is my friend found that timing marks is 180 degrees out, should have been the cut out marks on the cam should have been on top,, adjusted timing witht the cut out marks on top, but now just cranks, as soon as it starts and you leave the key it cuts out, no more back firing,

ok heres what i have done, running coil pack running after market management (dicktator) 60-2 pulley and CAS
i have spark on all 4 plugs, i have 2.5 psi on the fuel rail; all 4 injectors are spiking (and tested all 4 ok)
i know the ecu is over fueling (after cranking when i remove spark plug 2 and 3 its wet)
going to replace the crank sensor again tonight and see what the out come is,
but if you guys can just shed more light as to what i need to check or replace

much apreciated
thanks delano

[Josh_TA22]

So just to clarify, when you hold the key in the start position it will stay running but as soon as you let go of the key it stalls?

Or is it just not firing at all?

Cheers Josh

[Delano]

So just to clarify, when you hold the key in the start position it will stay running but as soon as you let go of the key it stalls?

Or is it just not firing at all?

Cheers Josh

Hi Josh

yes it just stalls, as soon as you let go, i have change the crank sensor and still does the same, if you play around with the plugs i got it to run for about 5 -6 seconds and then cuts out, then struggles to start again

Thanks
D

[SYC02T]

If it's fuel injected you will need more than 2.5psi of fuel rail pressure

[Clasyk]

Has anyone here done a 3SGE Beams swap into a RA65 or SA63?