3T GTE Tech

[3jcelica]

Hi,

Just wondering if anyone knows if the reduction style starter motors are smaller than the old style 2t/3t starters.

Mine (old style) is pretty close to my turbo manifold and was wondering if the reduction style is going to give me better clearence?

Roger

[TA22Celica]

Hi guys just a quick wiring question,

The Yellow and Pink wires going to a 2 pin plug from the standard igniter joins to a 2 pin plug with a Black and a Black/Red wire, The Black/Red wire goes to IG on the standard ECU,

Where does the other Black wire go to??? Earth maybe???

Thanks

[3jcelica]

Standard ignitor wiring

-The wire with the clamped conection (ring) goes to the positive (ignition feed) (brown I belive)

-The two black wires one to each coil negative. (doesn't matter which one)

-The dizzy (reluctance) wires are self explanatory and should plug into the dizzy

- run +ve ignition feed to each coil (and to the ignitor see first point)

Hope this helps

[TA22Celica]

Thanks 3J,

But I have already hooked up all negative ring wires to coils and ignition feeds to igniter and coils. These are the last two left.

Yellow wire which turns to Black/Red wire goes to - ECU

Pink wire which turns to Black wire goes to - ???

I have taken picture of connection aswell below

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[3jcelica]

I would say it is a tacho output

[AE25]

there are at least 3 different 2tg thermostat outlet pipe versions. one is definately taller than the other. can show pic if requested.
GMB make a 2tg/3tgt water pump. i bought one through my local repco from memory?
That russian forum link above has pinched the 3tgte sticker pic from my site and rehosted it. cheek! http://toycrazy.net/tech/3tgte.htm
The 3tgte reduction starter motor seems to last better than the std ones. even without the turbo i had a few std type that kept getting sticky solenoids until i changed to reduction type. also 1geu/1gg# reduction starter bolts on. the solenoid is in a slightly different spot which is closer to the turbo but it fits, just. can't guarantee all 1g variants are the same but i've tried 1geu and 1ggte.

[steeko]

FYI - rebuilt 3tGte on ebay, may go cheap in Brisbane:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[toyo-al]

Hi,

Does anyone have a spare coolant bypass hose for a 3TGTE?? Or do you know where I could get one that'll fit up?

Just a few little bits like this that's holding up my conversion unfortunately...

I've attached an image with the hose circled.

Cheers

[Radar]

Just thought i'd add a random comment in here to say the 3TGTE is a freakin nuts motor mass fun to drive
I got it back with 110kw at the wheels with a mass dent in my dump pipe 2.5"->2"->3/4"(dent)-2" and 7:1CR on 10psi .. The guy said with an IGN system upgrade and a better dump i'll make much more... What a fantastic motor!

[3jcelica]

Hi, my engine was recently rebuilt, I am due to have a tune tommorow, however my oil pressure is off the scale.

I have already blown up one mechanical guage on start up oil pressure going over 100psi (guage max)

so I through an electrical guage in and changed the oil from 20w50 to 10w30 but still going off the guage, when I did warm the engine up the idle sat on about 80-90 psi.

The engine has been rebuild with the crank line bored and cam bigends redone to tighten the tolerances, every thing in the engine has been gone over.

The engine builder noticed that the springs on the oil pressure relief valve had previously been cut, I assume to lower the high oil pressure.

What are my options? and should I go ahead with the tune?

I know I can get a new 3tc pump for $235, can I use the pump body (with relief valve) off this and throw the 3tc pump and filter onto it. I know the 2tg body is the same body, is the 3tc?

BTW RADAR sounds great, but you are glad you held on to it now.

Roger

[TheToyman75]

Roger,

Well built 3T-GTE's are renowned for high oil pressure when cold. Quite a few guys on here have split aftermarket oil filters on them as well So only a Toyota Genuine Filter !

I personally would not be dropping your oil pressure, check it with a high quality gauge and make sure the oil pressure relief valve on the oil pump moves freely.

Do you have the factory oil cooler hooked up ? The bypass to the cooler opens at 80 degrees C.

[3jcelica]

Thanks for the response Toyman,

yeah I think it is a combination of tightened tolerances and high pressures the 3tgte experience. I pulled the oil pump last night, what fun. The spring in the oil pump must have been cut by the previous owner to try and reduce pressure, but cutting a spring also increases its spring rate, so I am putting a brand new 3t oil pump body with 3tgte pump and bottom end in. I think that is the best I can do, or all I can do. I will run a toyota filter (do you specify 3tgte filter?). One cheap mechanical guage has been blow up already, I hooked up an electrical guage and still swining off the scal hence pulling the oil pump. I have a good guage to go in there but want to make sure its not going to blow up before I put it on. I did run the engine up to about 80deg engine temp and idle pressure did drop to about 80psi as soon as a few revs are given its off the guage.

Same pump in the engine before it was built resulting in ~10-20psi idle 60 psi when reved. So if it still high after the pump changes, geniuine filter and live with. No oil coiler or bypass valve, engine was originally water cooled turbo.

Eagle rods without the oil squirt holes on the big end probably don't relieve the oil pressure as well, putting more stress (not quite the right word) on the pressure valve relief ports to flow enough.

Roger

[toyo-al]

What issues will arise from running a 3TGTE with cut-n-shut sump (I guess it's down about 500-750mL capacity) for a short period of time; while the engine is run in and tuned?

Also, is the factory oil filter a long unit? When my engine arrived it had a long oil filter on it, but it didn't quite fit, with the steering box in the way. Is there an issue running a shorter filter, or should I be looking into a relocation kit?

Cheers,
Al

[3jcelica]

My take on the 3tgte over pressure issues after a bit of testing

Oil pressure before rebuild was fine, after rebuild not fine. Changes that affected oil flow after rebuild include ball bearing turbo requiring less oil flow i.e. restrictor in line, and eagle rods (4x no hole in big end to squirt on cylinder walls), and tighter tolerances.

I placed the guts of a 3tgte larger volume pump into a brand new 3t pump body and relief valve, same result massively high pressure I would guess 150psi+ at start up dropping to 80-90 psi when warm at idle but don’t have a gauge that goes that far. I believe mark from toycrazy has also taken an oil pump from one 3tgte that had high pressure and put it on another 3tgte and it worked fine.

A standard 3tgte early model has an oil cooled turbo with an oil cooler hence requiring greater flow from the oil pump, hence the higher volume oil pump.

When we start modifying the 3tgte first thing to go is the oil cooled snail and replaced with a water cooled snail potentially removing the oil cooler also hence the removing the need for high volume. In non engineering speak the extra volume now has to go somewhere. This would normally be the pressure relief valve where oil is bled back to atmospheric pressure (sump pressure) however I believe the bled holes are too small to flow the excess volume hence the pressure in the system rises.

This is potentially not a problem on most engines, but is if the tolerances are tightened up (i.e. big end and mains etc) coupled with a turbo requiring less oil the pressure will start to go up, and like most pumps as pressure raises volume pumped decrease.

My engine is further affected as the eagle rods don’t relive to sump pressure in the same way as standard rods.

As I don’t want to be blowing gauges, and oil filters every time I rev to 7000+ I have no choice but to either.

1. Reduce the volume flowed – use a 3t/2t/2tg pump
2. Open up the pressure relief valve ports slightly (really requires a test bench or trial and error slowing opening the port until desired pressure is reached)
3. build the engine to sustain higher pressure or higher volume i.e higher integrity oil filters and gauges that take more pressure or creating a need for larger volume i.e. add an oil cooler.

Initially I am going with option 1 to see if the 3t/2t pump is adequate for my engine (which essentially needs less volume due to turbo/tolerances/rods) and the punishment it receives. It should be noted that I have a high volume sump with trap doors so starvation should not be an issue.

General feeling on the later 3tgte without the oil cooler is that the standard pump size is appropriate for standard tolerances; standard rods with the big end oil holes and CT series turbo which have significant size oil feed line.

Or I could be completely of the mark

[RiceburnaGTV]

Very interested to hear a solution to this. The guy I bought my 3gte with apparently all TRD internals (maybe the rods are similar) had the same problem so they pulled it off the road. Will be interesting to see what mine does when it starts in 2017

cheers
Nath