What size turbo would you use to make 400 - 450 WHP (max) with a 1JZ...

[Joshstix]

No the xx in GTxxyy is the turbine and chra family. Only the yy is talking about an actual measurement.

[JZA70 R]

that was taken directly from the garrett website???

[Joshstix]

Not really, that's your interpretation of what the Garrett website says. Based of what you have written the GT3582R will have a 35mm turbine inducer and an 82mm compressor exducer which is patently incorrect. The turbine inducer is 68mm.

What the Garrett site says is:

GTxxyyzz:

* Positions "xx" refers to the frame size of the turbine wheel inducer.
For example the "GT28" in "GT2860RS" refers to its turbine wheel frame size family. All GT28 units use a turbine wheel with 53.85mm inducer diameter
* As a rule of thumb, the larger the number, the larger the turbine wheel.

[Joshstix]

I should have used the GT30 as my example as it has a pair of different turbine wheels.

If you buy a GT3071R you get a 71mm compressor wheel and a 60mm turbine wheel, the only GT3071 worth owning incidentally.

If you buy a GT3071R - 700382- 3 you get a 71mm compressor wheel and a 56.5mm turbnie wheel.

If you buy a GT3076R you get a 76mm compressor wheel and a 60mm turbine wheel.

All of them are GT30 "frame" turbo's but they don't all have the same turbine wheel size.

[big wad]

if you can find a fresh gt30/71r you will make more power than the twins from idle to full revs. it worked on mine. shit i,d like to wack the motor in something that weighed about a ton less. a gt 30/76r sounds even better but i imagine you would lose some bottom end. cheers. bigwad

[poombah]

people will soon see these ebay manifolds will be leaking like a russian sub within a couple of years.

For around $200, if it lasts a couple of years then i dont really see many people complaining... buy 2 or 3 of them for the price!

[JZA70 R]

i swear you two are joined at the dick.

[6BOOST]

i think 1jz747 raves on about them because he is sponsored by him but thats another story.

my manifolds are built very similarly to his depending on the customers budget but i dont make them advertise for me.

Have I ever done anything to offend you Linden?? Becuase the above statements are slightly offending to me and you make me sound like some wanker who just tries to help people that will get me the furtherest, which I'm sure you didn't mean to(I hope so anyway). Shane raves about my manifold because he is over the moon with his results. In fact I have barely spoken to him before of after supplying his manifold, and have been absolutely blown away with how great he has been telling people about how happy he is with the results. I take the good with the bad, I built a manifold from Rajab racings VL as well which picked up 700rpm of spool, then they bumped up the turbine housing size and pickup up 60rwkw and still had faster spool, but they don't tell people, they don't post on forums, and just like shane, I don't ask them to, I'm just happy to be involved with any high profile car.

I don't want my post to come off too harsh, because I'm not that shitty about it, just in future leave your own work to do the talking, which from what I have seen it does, and there is no reason to make the above type statements and fall into the same catagory as my other competitors who bag my product to inflate their own profile. To answer your question about what make my product better than a VWR or similar manifold, have a look at some pics of their product and compare the collectors. You could almost say theirs and Full Race manifolds aren't a true merge collector, as all 6 pipes don't meet at 1 common point, they effectively form 2x 4into merge collectors side by side sharing the centre runners and only provide 50% of the scavenging effect on some cylinders. In a few months I'll tell you exactly how much difference it makes as I will be back to back testing 5-6 manifolds on an RB25 with a TO4Z for interests sake to prove what works and by how much, for my sake as much as anyones, I don't claim to know anymore than or be better than anyone, I just do my own thing and people will think what they will.

MAZMAN, while I appreciate seat of the pants you may feel little difference, the dyno tells the best story, it would be hard to pick 100-200rpm of spool and 10 or so kw at the wheels difference, and being so long since you had a tune I would hope you didn't feel too much difference becuase your engine would prob be a steaming pile of poop if it did make a massive difference to the tune or power output. I am doing some back to back testing on a well known 600rwhp supra in feb, so keep your eyes out for the resuts of that, it will be unbiased and done purely for interests sake, as I said earlier, I don't make outlandish claims about my product, some people gain lots, some little, I just do what I do, and people will think what they will.

Now, back on topic, for 450rwhp, I would be sceptical of getting there with a 3076. We have made 300rwkw with them before, and with a .82 rear housing i think this would be an insanely responsive vs powerful turbo, however I just don't know if it has the legs in it to make 450rwhp. The 3582 with a .82 is my alltime favourite, on stock unopened RB25's they make 300rwkw on 18psi of boost and full boost at 3900rpm with the stock intake manifold, we have seen 440rwhp through an auto on 25psi, and 603rwhp on a RB25/30 and 24psi with 50% tolulene. They have the headroom required for ongoing power goals, and I personally don't think 400rpm is laggy on an engine that swings to the better side of 8k, factory turbo's are only 500rpm at best more responsive and make massive amounts less power.

In relation to the 3082, as a few people have already stated, the compressor wheel is the same as the 3582, but with the smaller exhaust wheel of the GT30, the compressor wheel far outflows the exhaust wheel, and while being a fine turbo, I have several customer that run RB30 engines and have upgraded from a GT30 with a .82 to a GT35 with 1.06 and can barely pick the difference on the road, within 200rpm of each other on a dyno graph yet 50-100hp behind in power. You would actualy get 450rwhp out of one, one customer of mine has made 360rwkw with one, but they have since switched to a GT35, lost no spool, and picked up 80rwhp on the same boost. I'm a fan of garrett all the way, OEM spec reliability with so many turbo options at a good price, I think you'd be crazy going anything else, and on a decent manifold, 450rwhp will be a snack and responsive as I think you'll ever need.

Cheers...........................6BOOST

PS, Sorry for the essay, should have replied earlier but just been busy

[JZA70 R]

no thats fine. i appreciate the input its exactly what i want in this thread.

its gonna be a pretty hard decision between the 3082 and the 3582, if what your saying is correct one would be silly to not go the 35R.

all i need now is to see a manual 1j dyno with back to back 30 and 35r dyno runs

[jeffro ra28]

Now, back on topic, for 450rwhp, I would be sceptical of getting there with a 3076. We have made 300rwkw with them before, and with a .82 rear housing i think this would be an insanely responsive vs powerful turbo, however I just don't know if it has the legs in it to make 450rwhp. The 3582 with a .82 is my alltime favourite, on stock unopened RB25's they make 300rwkw on 18psi of boost and full boost at 3900rpm with the stock intake manifold, we have seen 440rwhp through an auto on 25psi, and 603rwhp on a RB25/30 and 24psi with 50% tolulene. They have the headroom required for ongoing power goals, and I personally don't think 400rpm is laggy on an engine that swings to the better side of 8k, factory turbo's are only 500rpm at best more responsive and make massive amounts less power.

What manifold was this done on buddy? Just curious... thats all.....

[JZA70 R]

Question. would a 3082 with a 1.06 be a better option than a .82 rear housing?
im not really clued up on the A/R business, will having a larger exhaust housing A/R help since its a relatively small turbine to begin with?

[Joshstix]

It will "help" with top end but make the boost response worse.

[Disturbed1]

700177-5014 (gt3082)

i dont know what turbo specs this is but im led to believe its a gt30r with 0.82 rear 0.7 front

i was making 440 hp on 19 psi with a 'shit' ebay manifold and stock ecu (safc) with a BHG and 60% leak down in 1 cylinder (7MGTE). Power delivery was smooth and boost was very responsive. With a better designed manifold then a trust copy, id prob make boost at idle and gain another 30 hp.

i was also making 300 rwhp on 8 psi (gate pressure) with an aftermarket ecu (ems 8860)
and no other changes

todd - stop debating over this decision and just buy 1. theres about 50-60 hp difference between the two turbos in mind - there plenty of ther factors that effect response

(side note - we all know how much dyno numbers vary so trying to pin point a power of 450hp based on results form seperate dynos isnt ideal)

[JZA70 R]

ill probably go the 3082 for starters. see how i like it. worse case scenario if i want the 35R i can sell the 30R and buy the 35 and hope i dont need to do too many modifications to fit it.

[Kyosho]

Why chase out right power?
We all know dyno queens loose on the street.

I've seen many a 800HP car be torched alive on the street by a 400HP car, purely because the 400HP has torque to pull it from down low.

Don't aim for power, go for torque.
Set a goal, if you're into 1/4 mile, chase a time.

That'll help you more then dyno power.

As we all know, all you need to do is heat the IAT sensor up and the dyno inflates power majorly!