18rgeu dizzy issues.

[Omegaman]

My slow build up of an 18rgeu with 9.7 comp and the 230 cams were caused by lack of power.
going through the threads i've found that my dizzy, though was electronic was not the geu one. The inner shaft below the governor weights had the digits 8.5 and 10 on them.
You guys (Toymodders) had written a thread that showed that the geu has actually 11 and 13.5 digits stamp there. Also the vacuum advance was the type that had retard also, that is, two breather plugs. I believe that this may of been my problem, I hope anyway. Because it put me off my project.
I've found the old geu dizzy and cleaned it up, put a single vacuum adv on it.
Problem again, slightly bent upper shaft.
my questions are,
- would it be possible to get the shaft straightened and where?
- would any shaft be able the interchange?
- if i could change the shaft, Could I change the weights also (using the 11 and 13.5s)
- not that it would make a difference, but the upper shafts are different. 1 has half round contact points and the other 18rgeu has square. any comments on this?
I hope to test the dizzy in the next couple of days, providing I can straighten it.

[Omegaman]

AS per previous post, here are some photos as to what I mean.

[The Witzl]

those "rounded" bits on the star wheel simply generate a slightly different VR signal... it has a more sloped lead up to the zero cross slope.

Anyway... your best bet is to find an 18R-C dissy and a 22RE or 21RC dissy, and combine the two to make one 18R electronic dissy.

The dual vacuum port vac advance thing doesnt actually have a retard part... its actually for uber cold temps, it will increase the cold advance a few extra degrees over the normal cold ignition advance. (found that out in an RT142 book)

It pretty easy to combine parts.

[Omegaman]

If I were to just use what I have at this Stage.
I have straightened the shaft pretty well myself.
using the geu body and all, would the vacuum with the daul inlets be preferable, also would these hook up to the efi manifold near the idle adjuster, where it has the 2 vacuum ports? 1 is for advance the other?

I was concidering using the shaft with the rounded star wheel, but the weights then may have made a difference.
My aim at this stage is to ge the dizzy as true to geu as possible, so I can see whether this did play a part in the shit power I was getting.
If this was not the cause, I will look at the cams and then the head, because everything else below the head was checked twice.

[The Witzl]

you can mix and match parts.. its not hard to do.

Just make sure you use the advance plate with the 11 and 13.5 slots, and use weights that match.
With the high compression pistons, i would use the 11* side first, as too much timing will make your engine go PING badly (i've killed 6 pistons this way)

[Spectre]

I have an 18RGEU dizzy that should be up for sale soon. Will let you know.

[Omegaman]

selling dizzy, yeh, let me know.

Witzl, Question.
"With the high compression pistons, i would use the 11* side first"

What do you mean with this quote? and how do you use the 11* 1st?

[o_man_ra23]

First thing brew... you mention in your pics about 'breaker points'... you have electronic dizzies, they dont have breaker points. What you are talking about are the variable reluctor elements... basically an iron based material with enhanced flux conducting properties (so yes, your car has a flux capacitor )

Next, as said by Witzl, the 21/22R upper shafts fit on perfectly, and the base from any 18R Nippondenso (not bosch or mitsubishi) dizzy will fit also. I would personally ditch the counterweights, solid mount the top shaft to the bottom shaft, and use a computer (Megasquirt perhaps) to control timing advance and dwell. Much better than messing about with counterweights and half stuffed vacuum diaphragms. But thats just what I am going to be doing.

[Omegaman]

Yes, I thought my comment on breaker point was incorrect.
But witzl clarified and answered what i needed to know.

Guys, the idea is to get the power of the motor with what I have.
getting an after market computer or changing dizzy config's from what I have, won't happen with this motor.
I want it driven every day, so I need or hope to get it going this weekend.
there's no reason my engine build should not have the std power. The dizzy was the 1st step to going as closs to the std setup. I have the wiring the 18rgeu comp, so why no power?
I appreciate your help, but I hope you see where I'm comming from.

[o_man_ra23]

Have you cleaned the injectors, shimmed the valves??

[Omegaman]

Hey.O_MAN_ra23
yes, the injectors have been proffessionally cleaned, as far as the valves. I have cleaned any carbon build up and the seating looks fine.
The intake has been cleaned, vacuume hoses correct, oil pressure good, new plugs,new cap,rotor, had good spark with previous dizzy, injectors pulsing ok.
Unless yourself or others can shed some light, I will go with the 18rgeu dizzy on the weekend, see how that goes.
I picked up my spare geu head ****270, since I'm using the *****253 at the moment.
doubt would make a difference. the cams which I'm using are ****230 rg ones, with 9.7.1 comp pistons.
In all this, wheres the problem so far.
should I also go back to the*****270 cams, ???? Q's Q's Q's

[o_man_ra23]

as I said, have you shimmed the valves?? The seating can be fine, but if they arent shimmed up properly (its how you set the clearances), then you engine can run like a bag-o-puss. Also, did you change your coil or ignitor?? Did you touch the ballast resistor?? A dodgy ballast resistor will make it run bad, check the resistance across it with a good quality multimeter (not a $20 item, but find somebody with a $100+ item, preferably a FLUKE)

[The Witzl]

Omegaman... if you are still stuck on this, drive your celica around to my place on sunday and i'll go through it all with you.

[Omegaman]

I would expect the shimming and clearances are correct, BUT never assume.

The spare head geu, has had a rebuild years ago, with new intake valves (long story) anyways, will use this head as metioned earlier. trial and error now.

Witzl, since the car is not registered, With regret I cannot drive it over, though if problem persists, maybe in the new year, if the offer stands I'll trailer it over and drive it off.

I've had an electricion check the electricals on this over a month ago, had trouble with fuel pump working. he changed the coil and checked the rest, all good. + $700bucks for his effort.

still hoping its the dizzy.

[Omegaman]

After rebuilding the dizzy, if feel this has made a notible difference.
I was in 2 minds weather to change the head, so I didn't.
I drove it for a short distance, not that responsive, though it hasn't been tuned yet. Only by tacho, mixtures are obviously out.
Since I just re-built the bottom end, I didn't want to give it, tempting as it was.
I may have a blocked or stuck thermostate, the engine is a little hotter than normal.

My end result for today is, a better feeling the dizzy was the problem. will check themo, let it run abit more to bed the new rings in, then comp test to see if valve are ok.
Hope thats the order, a tune in there somewhere.

If I have time tomorrow I'll grab some photo's of the COBRA.