Moving the mounts will be a lot easier than trying to make up new arms that will use the angle.
i don't wanna cut my chassis nor i wanna find another axle for it. i have a shortened hilux diff housing and now the mounting point seems way out of alightment with the stock KE70 mount. then try to think a way to use them and came out with this
is it possible this can be done? what are the caution and risk need to be consider?
Moving the mounts will be a lot easier than trying to make up new arms that will use the angle.
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
any suggestion on moving the mount? i guess some reinforcement have to be done if we place the mount some where else than the stock mounting place right?
err.. where will the wheels end up?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
it will end up on both sides of the axles normally. :-)
back to the topic, axle housing i have now is only have 1000mm from bearing flange to flange. that is a lot shorter than a stock KE70 axle ( even the stock lower arm link is wider than 1000mm, from left unit to right unit). now i m trying to figure out how to mount the shortened axle. try to maintain the stock wheel base as well as don cut the chassis.
so where will the wheels end up...
i mean.. when you attach wheels to the end of yout severely shortened axle (duh), how much track have you lost?? or will the wheels maintain the original track?
to mount the axle, move the mounting points from the original diff, to the new diff, in the same place, otherwise you will need to reloate all of the body and diff mounting points that need changing...
ie, axle doesn't just go up and down, it twists.. so your mounts in pic will be somewhat crap.
if you can't weld on the original mounts in the original position, sorry, but the diff is too small and you are pushing crap uphill.... the diff just doesn't fit... (unless it is for a drag car, and then you may as well take the chance to entirely change the mounting points to suit traction)
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
yeah it is for drag racing only.. we can get back the track by getting some suitable offset wheels..
rethink your plans.. you need to think about how power is transferred to the body..
why not make parallel 4 link? or ladder bars?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
parallel 4 links will requires chopping the rear floor pan off and i don't like that. i've consider about the ladder bar setup but no positive response on this over the stock 4 links too..
um, yeah....
your choice really is chop floor pan
or change diff mounts on diff
you say its quite short, like less than 1 metre in length
will the wheels even fit on with out hitting the inner guards/chassis?? i dont think they will
i think you need to become freindly with your tape measure
I DONT WORK FOR TOYOTA ANYMORE
please, no more PMs!
but.. you don't have stock 4 links anymore.. are the big angle ones for the top or bottom arms?Originally Posted by CHB
ffs stop and think...
if you have massive angles like that, what happens if you get a bit of wheel hop/tramp?
as you hop from wheel to wheel, the axle is going to try and push the car sideways and you might get totally out of shape..
if you can find ANY drag car that has stupid angles like you are proposing to use, then it should be fine.
just cut the floorpan. it is a drag car anyway, you will only make it better, you can't make it worse than what you have already suggested.
the axle doesn7t fit. what you are proposing to do is not a good solution. either find car that fits diff, or diff that fits car. or MAKE the diff fit the car, or MAKE the car fit the diff...
for $100 of welding of diff mounts... what is the issue?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
welding the diff mount is no issue for me.. top links should works for me, the problem is with the lower arms. if i weld the new mount according to the chassis mount, i may be have to use a very shallow back spacing wheel to clear the lower arm off.. may be 1 or 2" back spacing..
you wont find a drag rim with that back spacing,
my diff is from a hilux and it measures 1195mm from housing flange to housing flange so the diff flange face is 1360mm, this suits a 15x8 with 3.75 backspace perfectly and no major guard mods with a 28x9 tyre under it.
hope these measurements help you but i feel if you want to run the diff housing you have then go for a proper 4 link with aftermarket rails and brackets, or a ladder bar for ease of use. if you mention it was purely for drag and that you had a 1m housing b4 then these would have been my suggestions.
and new ladderbar mounst will definately be needed and make sure they are mounted correctly or youll be going nowhere fast.
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
ok thanks. i think i just sell my housing and get a decent housing for the project. thanks for you all's comments and ideas.
Bookmarks