More Z20 A70 Drift Spec Mods

[cptsideways]

Cpt anglegrinder strikes again

Was looking at the rear subframe bushes, notably at the amount of wobble in them, now the car has only done 90 od k km's of which 10k has been on circuit drifting by now. Its fair to say they are fairly shagged

Anyway whilst beavering away under the car I noticed something... & it suddenly struck ahhh how to fix the rear camber when lowered issue...read on.

On top of the subframe is a bush/collar/bit of rubber, it sits about 1cm off the chassis or the shell sits on top of it more like. I also noticed that the subframe clearance was enough all round to delete this spacer & mount the subframe direct to the shell, thus lowering the ride height by 1cm without changing the geometry. Which is a good thing.

So with judicious use of two jacks & few lumps of wood & some blocks, undo 6 big bolts, 4 smaller ones, drop the brake calipers off, leave the prop & handbrake cables in place........

The whole subframe drops down sufficient enough to do this.


And these are what you need to attack with my favourite tool


Once you've chopped the 6 spacer bits off, the & Bolt it all back up, with spacers on the bolts lower down & hey presto it all now sits 1cm lower, so for the same ride height I have less camber - which is good for grip mid drift.





This is a perfect mod for those who want a solid back end, it will be noisier & probably sounds like your diff is about to implde, but sod that I want to know where the back end is. This will apply to MA70, JZA70. GA70, GZ20, MZ20 models for future reference.

[MR 1JZ]

very nice work dude

again leading the way in custom drift mods!

[Looonie]

Curious to know if you've driven the car since you did that and how it goes...

Because pineapples get placed ABOVE the subframe, thereby spacing it further AWAY from the car...

And you're doing the opposite...

[Disturbed1]

i think it would be nice to have a 5mm poly/aluminium spacer in their rather then solid mount.. steel on steel = destined to crack/wear etc

[cptsideways]

Update: the subframe is be permenantly attached to the chassis

Solid as they get

[Stomps]

hey mate, nice work.. hey, dont wanna change the direction of the thread or anything but can you list some of the more conventional stuff you have done... Matt- maybe you too..

shit like spring rates, what sway bars, front/rear camber, toe etc... i got some info from you before matt but my shit got erased so i gotta start again...

Stomps

[cptsideways]

hey mate, nice work.. hey, dont wanna change the direction of the thread or anything but can you list some of the more conventional stuff you have done... Matt- maybe you too..

shit like spring rates, what sway bars, front/rear camber, toe etc... i got some info from you before matt but my shit got erased so i gotta start again...

Stomps

Ok Here you go

Front
900lb springs
GAZ Custom shocks 16 click adjustables
3 deg neg camber
10 degrees castor
modified pas = very little
Stock ARB
JZZ30 Bottom arms & hubs (for the castor) with JZZ30 big brakes (search 4 thread on this)
Upper A arms moved back 4mm for castor & lock clearance (simple job)
Shortened steering arm on hubs for more lock
Approx 48-50degs of lock compared to 35deg stock
Cut & shut subframe for lock clearance
25mm front hub spacers (for lock clearance)


Front
600lb springs
GAZ Custom shocks 16 click adjustables
1.2 neg camber (would like to run less but can't) above subframe mount fixes this issue
Stock ARB


2007 the car weighed 1440kg with me in it (85kg) & a full tank of fuel (stock tank)