New plugs FTW.
Go buy some now. They make the world of difference!
That's exactly what I'm getting.Originally Posted by Kyosho
I have overlooked that actually because all my plugs are in pretty bad shape after running so rich.
New plugs FTW.
Go buy some now. They make the world of difference!
Impulse buy eh. Well I went out and purchased a set of copper equivalents. The car now revs up to 5000rpm, stutters then goes on to 5800/6000 and is limited around there. I know it's stopping at around 5800rpm because I need a different ignitor which I have not put in. But the stuttering around the lower rpms is still a cause for concern and I'm still getting the black smoke. I guess next step is the dizzy.
Gap plugs down to 0.8mm
You probably have 1.1mm gaps
I bought the bkr6e and was told they should be 0.8mm gap. Can't seem to find my feeler gauge so I've got no choice but to trust them.
They're a 1.1mm gap AFAIK.
Also, what coil is the motor running on atm? The Gen2 or 3 one?
Swap to the Original motors coil before changing plugs around again.
The bkr6e-11 are 1.1mm gapped. I was told bkr6e is 0.8mm gap. Haven't been able to verify this though.
And yes I'm pretty much using the same electronics because I only got the engine. The only 'new' ignition component is the distributor.
The distributor is on setup correct? (Not a tooth out?)
Check your timing, I've had issues nearly the same if the timing is too far advanced...
Also, I'd probably look at swapping to the other dizzy just as a check...
I can verify that, I have measured them.Originally Posted by hunging
Your above statement is correct:
bkr6e-11 are 1.1mm gapped
bkr6e are 0.8mm gapped
I use them in my 2jzgte.
I also must say changing plugs makes the world of difference if they are all fowled up.
Did two things today. Changed the distributors around and took the injectors out.
For some reason the gen2 distributor didn't fire up with the gen3 ignitor. But after getting it to run with the gen2 ignitor it still had the same problem.
Injectors sprayed fine and the o-rings looked fine so nothing was done to them.
I'm beginning to run out of ideas. Please help!!
are they the same reluctor?Originally Posted by hunging
did you try to swap the wires around?
or.. at least put the dizzy on a scope and see if it goes up or down in the first part of the wave (so to see what direction the slope in the middle is..)
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AFAIK they are the same. The wires are correct according to the BGB. I guess I can confirm it by checking connectivity of the wires with a multimeter. I don't have a scope to look at the waves but I think trying two distributors should be pretty conclusive that the problem is not there.
I've gone back to the drawing board and have started looking at the ignition wiring of gen2 and gen3. These are the apparent differences I've found so far:
1. For the gen3 power to the ignitor and coil is split at the relay.
2. The positive wire to the coil is grounded (circled)
Gen 2:
Gen3:
The 'diode' in the gen3 diagram is labelled 'noise filter (for ignition system)' in the ST205 BGB.
Does that mean I'll need to splice the positive wire going to the coil and ground it? Wouldn't that short out the power to the coil?
Its not a diode, its a capacitor... or "condenser" as its called in automotive electronics.Originally Posted by hunging
Helps to stop ignition noise interfering with other electronic systems & radios.
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
Just a quick update: I've tried switching the G1 and G2 pins on the ecu just to confirm I haven't got them around the wrong way. The engine fired up with a CEL which went off after about a second or so. The engine feels slightly more sluggish but it's still doing the same thing misfiring above 4000 rpm.
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