The Spray Painting Thread

[camshere]

Well guys - i ended up getting a DeVilbiss GTI Pro HVLP gun with a 1.3 tip and trans tech (LP) air cap etc. Cost me $550 and but it was well worth the money IMO - I only got the "basecoat" gun (the GTi Pro sells as a base or clear gun - i may get the clear when i spray the corona), but i liked it so much i sprayed the clear out with it too without changing the setup - came out great, although on such a large car (magna wagon) i failed to notive some dry spots on the bonnet and roof, so that was a bit dissapointing.

My compressor barely noticed the gun - the trans tech use signifcantly less air than the HVLP (16cfm vs 9.5 cfm for the same tip) which was nice - one less thing to worry about - i'm cutting it back this weekend so i'll post some pics here when its done.

[andy]

why do they recomend that u use a different gun for base and clear? i used the exact same gun for primer, acrylic base coat, and 2pac clear. came up looking great.

[Matt-AE86]

Do you have any pictures of your results andy? Would like to see.

[ian]

why do they recomend that u use a different gun for base and clear? i used the exact same gun for primer, acrylic base coat, and 2pac clear. came up looking great.

hi
the reason for that is
its only a recommendation ,as the base coats are a solid or , a solid with metal particles
clear is just that , its is paint with out the pigment or metalic particles , and is generally sprayed a bit thinner, so it can be sprayed at a lower pressure , thus reducing orange peel effect
ian

[andy]

Do you have any pictures of your results andy? Would like to see.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpo...&postcount=443

[camshere]

why do they recomend that u use a different gun for base and clear? i used the exact same gun for primer, acrylic base coat, and 2pac clear. came up looking great.

The GTi Pro guns apparenlty have slightly different air caps for the clear guns for shooting clear, although i've had trouble confirming this because it seems very few people actually know anything about what they are selling over here, and I don't have access to a DeVilbiss Rep. The shop i bought it from didn't even know what a trans-tech or RP gun was - in fact, no store i rang did (i used both terms to try to get an answer) - i had to have them read me what was written on the air nozzle over the phone so i could figure it out - The GTi series have 2 trans-tech and 1 normal HVLP air caps so you're never sure what you're getting, plus they told me the wrong needle size but it turned out to be a more suitable one anyway (1.3mm)

The second reason for having multiple guns is to avoid contamination of clears with basecoats and primers, which is why i have my primer gun separate and just used the GTi for base/clear. Thirdly it stops you having to mess around changing tips etc mid job - just set and forget, only needing minor adjustments as you go. Ripping out needles etc all the time is a sure fire way to damage them.

In any case the gun is awesome, i highly recommend it to anyone considering a purchase. Better than all the other brand-copy guns i've used and better than siphon fed sata's and devilbiss guns i've used in the past.

[camshere]

OK - here is the basic process i went by for this respray along with some pics:

Repair dents/scratches
Spot prime repairs
Sand body with 240 grit (dry sand with air-sander)
Prime with a 2K primer
Guide coat (medium-light)
Sand with 400 grit (dry sand with air-sander)
Guide coat (light)
Block with 800 grit
Basecoat in Mitsubishi Kashmir Metallic (3-4 coats)
Clear Coat (3 coats)

And here are the pics:
(If there are too many for this thread then mods just let me know and i'll remove some but i didn't want to start a thread for it eeings is a mitsubishi )

Car repaired, spot primed and sanded:


Primed and Guide Coated


I also colour coded all the mirrors, door handles, grill, and lower door trim/bump strips

[camshere]

All the supplies i needed to get the job done:


Including my new DeVilbiss GTi Pro


After the 800 blocking, just prepsol'd and about to apply basecoat.

[camshere]

After the Clear had dried, pre fit-up


All fitted up and ready to drive - still off the gun however, no buffing.


Front grill that was colour coded for close up - still not buffed.


I'm pretty happy with it except for the dry spots on the bonnet and roof - we'll see how they come up after the body is blocked back with 1500 and buffed. I'll post those pics when i'm done.

[ian]

lookin good cam
did you get any dust in the job

ian

[camshere]

lookin good cam
did you get any dust in the job

Yeah, a fair bit actually - i cleared the garage out as best i can but unfortunately i was pinched for time so i couldn't get it as clean as i would have liked - i'll just have to sand it out of the clear as best i can - its not a showcar so i'm not too bothered - the gold hides a lot.

In retrospect i should have A) earthed the car B) hit the garage with bug spray - i had at least 3 mosquitos die after landing on the clear coat!

[BE50RY]

very nice job mate. looks tops
from the photos i cant tell that its a garage job at all. and a cut n buff will make it look even better

[ian]

a wet floor also helps
love your workbench it looks good
ian

[Oddyssey]

Hey everybody,

I'd like to know what the best way to go in terms of buffing acrylic is...electric? One of those pneumatic ones that hooks up to your compressor or just by hand? Also what kind of pads, compounds, brands etc.

Cheers

[camshere]

Hey everybody,

I'd like to know what the best way to go in terms of buffing acrylic is...electric? One of those pneumatic ones that hooks up to your compressor or just by hand? Also what kind of pads, compounds, brands etc.

Cheers

Electric is by far the easiest - but you need to be very careful not to burn though - i haven't tried compressor fed ones as most workshops i've been into use electric, and i haven't ever seen a air powered one (only sanders)

As for pads/compounds etc is this for new paint? If so i would block it back with a sanding pad and 1500 wet and dry, use a little detergent in the water to help the paper slide easier, then use an electric buff with a foam pad (GPI pads from Supercheap are good and will mount on a standard 14mm thread of a 7" polisher) and a proper 1K acrylic cutting compound to buff it up first, I have found the Spies-Hecker one to be pretty good, then buff it again with a swirl remover liquid cutting compoung (Meguiars rocks) and the electric buff but use a dimple pad on it - then if you really want more shine you can start hand polishing with more liquid polish - again Meguiars is my personal preference.

Be sure to thoroughly wash down the car to get rid of any of the coarser polishes before moving onto a finer one, as a small amount of heavy cut that gets on your rag when doing the final polish can leave you with a terribly scratched surface at the end and you'll be back at square one.

On the other hand if you're trying to buff up old paint - most of the same goes, but you can skip the blocking with sandpaper step - and you need to be sure you have enough paint thickness to do heavy cutting back if you want to go that route.