plain bering turbo wont need a restrictor,
could be a seal, what coulor smoke? blue/black/white?
Yep, another issue, after going for a bit of a drive and letting it idle afterwards it burns a bit of oil, compression test was okay, I'll check again though, and after going for a drive again it seems to clear out, turbo oil seal? too much oil to the turbo? do I need a restriction in the line?
Its a plain bearing turbo.
plain bering turbo wont need a restrictor,
could be a seal, what coulor smoke? blue/black/white?
You would still want a restrictor on a plain turbo. something round 1mm or so would be enough.
IIRC the max even a plain turbo would want to see at wot would be 45~psi.
We went though this on Jin~Jah's cressida. The CT26 couldn't cope with seeing full oil pressure with out dumping oil in to the exhaust.
MX83 Grande
DirtyWan Skyline GX
Have a search for 'turbo oil drain'
Specs for how much oil flow through a turbo have been mentioned before...I can't remember what the rule of thumb was tho! Sorry!
And you can test / check it
Cheers
Wilbo
light grey-ish maybe a hint of blue, but you can smell thats its oil
ill have to call bullshit on that one, if your feed is less than 2.5mm you will shit plain bearings like there going out of fashion (if you run the boost figures i do).Originally Posted by Hibba
make sure the drain is big enough first.
once na. are you sure its not overfueling and bore washing, what are your afr's while its doing it?
did you fit new stem seals?
ring gaps on engine or piston-bore clearances if you know them?
has the engine been run in/ tuned properly?
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Nah, afr's a good now around 14.7 at idle and cruise.
I bought the motor "rebuilt" but not run in, my aim was to get in running nice enough to run in then get dyno'd, i've got the maps from the motor before it was rebuilt with the same turbo etc so its pretty right.
Presumeably new valve stem seals were fitted, it doesn't smoke on startup
Dunno about ring gaps or anything. Could be that crack in the head has opened up and weeping oil into the exhaust port I guess. although it was aparently checked and not considered a problem.
Should fit that other head, or even get the bloody thing rebuilt so I know its good
alot of freshly rebuilt motors with forgies can be smokey to start with as the rings aren"t round theyre more octagonal (depending on brand and materials used) therefore requiring being run in to remove these points.
if the turbo was the prob you will have smoke pretty much any time its not on boost.
you should really run the engine in under load so i would reccomend taking it to a dyno asap (if they know what theyre doing they can tell you if there is something wrong)
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
This is way smokey! I'm gonna pull the exhaust manifold off tommorrow and I bet I find oil seepage in exhaust port 1. If so i'm pulling the head, hell I might pull it off anyways, I'm getting really pissed off with this motor
Okay I took the morning off work and pulled exhaust manifold. the crack that was supposededly fixed has opened up enough for the nearby stud to become sloppy in its hole and oil had been seeping into the exhaust. Shit! I've got another head I bought (Gen2) but it differs in at least 2 ways I can see so far, (will pull the head off the motor tonight, maybe) The cam cover/s won't fit and the holes where the fuel rail bolts to the head are flat on the head on the motor and angled on the spare one, if its just these differences I'll get a new cam cover and and weld some new tabs on the head so the rail will bolt down. Will try to post some pics tonight.
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