1GGTE death rattle

[Pube]

Looks like I have spun a bearing and im up for a rebuild. I was hearing a slight rattle in my engine a few days ago, only when the engine came on boost. Then today I just totally lost power. The engine will hardly boost and is making a rattle when you rev it in neutral. Im thinking its a spun bearing

I dont want to spend big money on the engine, just get it back to standard, healthy condition. I did a compression test recently and it showed a healthy 175-185psi. Presuming its only spun a bearing, anyone got an estimation of the costs involved? Do I need to buy a gasket kit?

If its going to add up, Id seriously consider a 1UZ transplant!

[EldarO]

as always, really depends on how bad it is, or how bad you let it get.

if you shut it down at the first sign of damage,theres a chance you'll be able to get away with lightly machining the crank and a new set of bearings, but then it just gets worse from there.

im by no means an authority on this stuff, just repeating what i was told when my mate did the same thing to his car.

[IN 05 NT]

damn mate!....that sux, especially just before the drag night!

suzuki swift GTi bearings fit, but the oiling holes have to offset slightly,, aswell as toyota 3-4k bearing,

both you can get as ACL race bearings, and will be 1/3 price of the genuine bearings,

i highly recomend thornleigh cyls heads for a good bottom end rebuild!...

[Pube]

From what I have researched, there are two different cranks. Earlier cranks are 42mm, later cranks are 44mm. 42mm can use 2s/3s/4k bearings but not sure about the 44mm yet. My engine came from a gx81 '88 model so I guess it will be a later engine. How much for a bottom end rebuild from thornleigh?

[timbosaurus]

I know EldarO mentioned you can get away with light machining an new bearings, but if you're lucky and the damage is not too bad you probably wont even have to do that.

Assuming you can get the sump off without removing the engine from the car, it may be quite a simple job.

- Warm up engine and put on hoist
- Drain oil
- Remove all sump bolts and drop off sump
- piston by piston, undo the rod bolts and take off caps and bearings.
- Inspect crank for discolouration or scores, replace new bearings, use plenty of oil and torque up rod bolts again. (obviously do the damaged big end first, in case you do need to pull the crank to machine it)
- sump back on
- fill with oil

No need to replace any gaskets except for the sump one. If you're on the dodge, you could probably try and reuse that too, but I wouldn't!

[Pube]

The engine will have to come out. I dont have a hoist and you cant get the sump off without removing the crossmember or lifting the engine up a few inches. The sump is leaking anyway thanks to some poor quality sealant I used, I wont make that mistake again! I only drove the car for about 2km's when it lost power but about 200km's with a minor rattle under boost. Hopefully the damage is minimal.

[The Real Roadrunner]

is it a rattle or a thud, bigends dont rattle heads and gudgeons do. if it lost power and it has spun a bigend the motor is more likely ratshit as it would have oval'd the rods and worn the thrust sides of the pistons to the shithouse.

first step would be to drop the oil when its warm and inspect whats in it ie bearing material and the like.

if you drove it 2kms with a rooted bearing generally they throw a leg out of bed,
if its a rattle chances are youv'e probly done a piston so do a comp test b4 you rip it apart.

(time to remove the PITA W/A cooler, i feel for you)

cheers
linden

[EldarO]

i drove my old 3SFE 40k's with a completely arsed bottom end, people were looking at me left right and centre wondering what the massive racket was, i made a point to drive past a couple of bars and coffee shops for the full effect.

i then proceeded to redline the motor for as long as i felt safe (didnt fancy the idea of a conrod to the crotch).

i pulled the motor after not being able to get it to blow and the oil was clear as!?!??!

rediculous motors toyota make i tells ya...

[The Real Roadrunner]

i drove my old 3SFE 40k's with a completely arsed bottom end, people were looking at me left right and centre wondering what the massive racket was, i made a point to drive past a couple of bars and coffee shops for the full effect.

i then proceeded to redline the motor for as long as i felt safe (didnt fancy the idea of a conrod to the crotch).

i pulled the motor after not being able to get it to blow and the oil was clear as!?!??!

rediculous motors toyota make i tells ya...

i have no comment on your stupidity!

the fact that the engine lost power is what makes me believe its not a bearing problem if he still drove it, coz the only time you will lose power is when the bearing grabs and that will generaly stop an engine in its tracks.

cheers
linden

[IN 05 NT]

i have no comment on your stupidity!

the fact that the engine lost power is what makes me believe its not a bearing problem if he still drove it, coz the only time you will lose power is when the bearing grabs and that will generaly stop an engine in its tracks.

cheers
linden

not really.....when i spun the bearing on the ol 1g, it had NO power, and wouldnt boost very well either...(didnt really try to boost it tho)... i still tried to nurse it home, (knowing it was rooted anyway), it still did seize up, and the bearing locked on,

your cheapest and esaiest option would be a staright swap over 2nd hand motor from SSS
$750, complete, sell off the turbos/ecu/wiring and the short block end up being ony a few hundread,

if you go that way, just do the swap over, i fucked up...and decided to upgrade everything while i was at it.....and still not yet together!