does anyone know what turbo i need to buy??

**lilcrash** · 15-10-2007, 05:17 AM

3tgte, top mount t3 flange manifold. needs to be internal gate and need to be able to get to the bolts as my manifold is tapped.

i put a skyline turbo on there yesterday and it would fit but the middle section would need to be turned and i would have to remount the wastegate actuator.

any ideas???

**The Real Roadrunner** · 15-10-2007, 06:07 AM

on a 3T id go with an rb20-25 roller the same as what you already have.
they're cheap S/H and can be rebuilt, early spool and make some decent numbers.

the bolts? what size thread? id run studs and nuts personaly but thats me.

99% of turbos will require that you rotate the CHRA so thats only a minor job, the bracket for the actuator may be fun depending on which orientation you have the comp cover, but you can always mod it to bolt to the back of the cover rather than the front.

cheers
linden

**thechuckster** · 15-10-2007, 12:29 PM

steve, i have a RB20 turbo on the 18R - i had to rotate the inlet housing and fabricate a mounting plate for the actuator (was a leftover bit of heavy-duty angle bracket). They (those RB20 turbos) are easy to rotate compared to toyota housings - only bolts to undo instead of snap-rings.

Come around and i'll remove the heat sheilds to make it more obvious.

**lilcrash** · 15-10-2007, 05:01 PM

the holes are tapped at m10x1.5

i figured that i would have to rotate the centre, i just dont want to end up with a dodgy looking bracket to hold the actuator. like its going to be seen easily now so yer. i know my engine bay looks bad already so i dont want to make it worse.

i will definately look into the rb20-25 idea but im not sure.

**thechuckster** · 15-10-2007, 05:09 PM

Steve, the stock RB20 turbo comes with a heat shield that covers up my dodgy bracketry-handiwork.

**IN 05 NT** · 15-10-2007, 05:18 PM

just go external and you dont have to remount the actuator

**lilcrash** · 16-10-2007, 05:08 PM

that sounds like a good idea charles, i will have to have a look then.

and no im not going to cut a hole in a $1500 manifold just to save 10 minutes of work.

**Rex_Kelway** · 16-10-2007, 06:49 PM

Rex suggest you simply remanufacture the actuator bracket.

Originally Posted by lilcrash

...i just dont want to end up with a dodgy looking bracket to hold the actuator. like its going to be seen easily now so yer...
.

Just do a good job of it...

If need be, clock the housings then send the lot to Rex and He shall modify.

**lilcrash** · 16-10-2007, 08:31 PM

charles do u have any pics??? is yours off a skyline. ive been offered a freshly rebuilt one for $200. it was on an engine that blew up with nos and it seams fine. was used for about 10 mins

**thechuckster** · 16-10-2007, 10:10 PM

steve, have put a few pics of it on Picasa here (sorry, they're a bit large):
http://picasaweb.google.com/thebigch...A40TurboDetail

I got it from Bigworm - he didn't say what it came out of

From memory, i paid about $350 for a recently rebuilt unit. If you do go this way, make sure you get the oil feed/drain lines as the feed line banjo has a restrictor in it.

In the 1st two pics you can see the bit of bracketry i made up (black bit) so i could rotate the compressor housing and use two of the clamping bolts as mount points instead of the mount points on the side of the compressor housing. Later pics show how it arrived.