Wheel Alignment - What settings do you use???

[Toyo Truck]

Hey Guys,

As some of you may know,
I have recently purchased a 1989, Gen 3, GZ20 Soarer.
It will be used primarily for drift events, and then later on, some grip events and
motorkhanas and such.

I am fitting a whiteline adjustable rear sway-bar soon, but apart from that,
I am gonna get the alignment done before I do any other suspension modifications,
however, I am having alot of difficulty finding the actual alignment settings to give the
aligner.

I'm sure there are some people here on Toymods who will know what settings to use,
or at least be able to give me a ballpark region for each setting?

So, for drifting, what would you use as the optimum settings for the following.
(If you don't know about "Drift" setups, just post up what you run and how it goes)

FRONT:-
Camber =
Toe =
Castor =
Spring Rate =
Ride Height =

REAR:-
Camber =
Toe =
Castor =
Spring Rate =
Ride Height =

thanks alot guys,
I am going to a drift day really soon, so any help you can lend would be awesome-o.

Thanks guys,
Bart

[ed]

http://toymods.net/forums/showthread...pension+camber

[MR 1JZ]

I cant really comment on height but becuase we dont have adjustable arms in the rear or the front then you want the rear at a height were it is easy to acheive 2.5 or 3 degrees max negative camber bart with 1mm toe out all around.

Castor shouldnt be more than around 8 degrees as the front, I used to run 12 and I liked it but it puts mega strain on your power steering and the wheel self centres very very quickly...with the new soarer im gonna back if off to 8-8.5 degrees in the front.

Spring rates should be around 14-16kg in the front and 10-12kg in the rear...but you cant adjust them...you need to modify the springs or put new springs in to change the rates, also you will want to have the right amount of preload on the springs, I found that once you get them tight that another half a turn on the spring seat to make it a bit tighter was optimal for the drift application.

With a drift car its important you setup the chassis before trying to eliminate roll by simply whacking in stiffer springs and belive it or not but 14-16kg in the front and 10-12kg in the rear is "relatively soft" for a Z20 or A70 due to suspension design...if seen specs on track cars up around the 20kg mark for front spring rates.

Swaybars are good and a half cage will be even better...

just some food for thought...

So in summary

front camber : 2.5 degrees negative
front castor: up to 8.5 degrees
front toe: 1mm toe out
front spring rates: 14-16kg

rear camber: you wanna minimise it but at a nice low height you will struggle to get it to anything lower than 2.5 deg neg
rear toe: 1mm toe out
rear spring rates: 10-12kg

enjoy

[Toyo Truck]

Thanks doooood! + Reppy for youski and Ed,

I knew you'd come thru with the goods.
Nice explanation too.
I guess if anyone knows something about slidin' Z20s it'd be yourself.

Cheers,
Bart

[MR 1JZ]

no worries mate...happy to help where I can

[Toyo Truck]

I tried to + Rep you, but it will not allow it.
I will be back to rep you soon.

[Toyo Truck]

Guys,

I just got my car ready for another day of dori action tommorrow,
For those who PM'd me for the alignment settings I got they are as follows:-

For a 1989 Toyota GZ20 Soarer, setup with stock everything, for drift purposes.
Done on a Beissbarth ML4600 Wheel Aligner.
Front:-
Camber = -1.28deg (Maximum allowable)
Toe = -1.8mm
Castor = +8.16deg (Maximum allowable)

Rear:-
Camber = -0.36deg (maximum allowable on stock A70/Z20 arms)
Toe = +1.4mm

Works well, allows for much easier power-over drift and self corrects on the wheel
which is cool.

Thanks to MR1J and Ed for their outstanding responses.
Just one other thing, Matt, did you get more camber,etc out of yours? is this pretty
close to what you ran with stock adjustment? I cannot get any more out of her than
the above.

Cheers,
Bart

[MR 1JZ]

nigga prease I got 3 degrees negative at the front with 1mm toe out

stock arms

mine is sacked to the weeds though

[forey]

about to get an alignment done, quoted $55 is that about the norm?
prob get -1deg front and rear camber as its my daily for the moment haha.
does more caster affect daily driving?

more than likely once i start entering practice drift days ill ramp up the camber/caster

cheers

[forey]

sorry to bump the thread, after the wheel alignment everything was ok but he said the left toe adjustment was siezed and that they cant un sieze it... had abit of a go with wd40 to loosen it with no success

any ideas?

[JZA70R_92]

same shit as me man I replaced my front arms with new ones from my MA70 with superpro bushes and will need to swap out the rear arms/subframe. Your best bet is to get the thinnest griding disk and inbetween the subram and arm carfully slice through the bush and bolt!

[forey]

its the adjustment between the rack end and the tie rod, the thread is rusted, surely it would be able to break free. ive got another rack end but id rather not have to go and get it lol.

[JZA70R_92]

yeah mine was also frozen to.....big bar and spanner sorted it let it soak if not heat it up with an oxy should allow it to move.....

[evers]

yeah man i had the same problem when i changed my power steering rack boot, get an oxy on there for a few quick seconds and then crank it over with some vice grips man, should come right off.

[forey]

okay finally got the left side toe adjustment unsized, next problem... as per the alignment guy said the rear right toe adjustment are too weak ? problem is its welded to the subframe... whats the fix there? atm my alignment is :

front:
camber - left -1 10'
right -1 19''
toe left +0.6mm
right +0.4mm
castor left +7 43'
right +6 41'

rear:
camber left -2 30'
right -2 03'
toe left +4.5mm (adjusted to suit right side to drive somewhat straight)
right +7.7mm (issue)

corners great, whiteline swaybars set to hard with tein ha coils unknown spring rate
but need to sort out the rear toe adjustment