Twin plate clutch - dramas

[The Real Roadrunner]

This is a very good point, did you get the bearing carrier with the clutch? It's a custom carrier that is model/clutch specific for the right height.

If you are using your normal carrier then the clutch wont have enough travel.

+ rep Mz20.

thats a nice bit of billet you got there

ive never personaly experienced the carrier/bearing prob (but thats more due to the fact that i put the right ones in the first time.

dori dori has pretty much anything you need for os giken bits and at good prices.

if the clutch is now out check what size the bearing/carrier/clutch bits are and ring otomoto as they are very helpful (but make sure you measure everything proply b4 you call)

cheers
linden

[spiller]

throwout bearing = thrust bearing correct?

if this is the case, yes the bearing carrier came with the clutch as part of the push to pull converter. the bearing also came with the clutch but it was stuffed so we had to get a replacement from CBC bearings. it was a matter of taking the old bearing down there and getting a replacement. i didnt personally do this, my mechanic did, but i dont see how much could have gone wrong because he had the actual bearing there in the shop when sourcing the replacement

[The Real Roadrunner]

they may have just got one close to it if the correct one wasn't in stock (probly didn't but it is possible)

cheers
linden

[MR 1JZ]

the bearing that came with the twin prayte was fubared...so we went down to CBC and they matched something up

its not a stock toyota bearing...

[The Real Roadrunner]

if its a giken then most of them use a nissan gtir bearing from memory (not 100% but can be confirmed by dori dori)

cheers
linden

[cptsideways]

Simple fix, stick some washers behind the pull/pivot mounting points, I had the exact same issue with my HKS one.

Also on the clutch itself you might find some helper springs, little extrenal ones on the perimeter, these seperate the multi plates when you release the clutch. I simply "adjusted" them to have more spring. Stopped the plates rattling too

These little bits on a HKS twinplate

[MR 1JZ]

the giken clutches dont have the helper springs...

the washers behind the pivot point might help though...

[MZ20]

Hmm, thats what i was getting at in my post ... but with the push - pull convertor it may need washers under the pivot - and also a longer slave shaft. (need more pics in different spots )

Glen

[slow laser]

im going to go with the carrier length... maybe there is too much slope between the throw out and the fingers... wouldnt be the first time ive seen it, any aftermarket clutch usually changes its diaphram and the travel all changes... might be worth a look into?

[spiller]

just thought id update this for the interest of the people who contributed/showed interest in this topic.

it seems like we now have the clutch working quite well. took it to a performance shop who has had experience with this very same clutch (set it up in the car that it came out of). it turns out it was actually over adjusted and from what i gather, the diaphragm has too much slack in it. the issue was ressolved in 20 minutes with some adjustment of both the slave and the clutch pedal.

friction point is now VERY low but after a day of driving i am used to it and it really is an easy clutch to use on the street. the low friction point means you need to have the pedal pushed in absolutely as far as possible in order to change into those difficult gears (i.e back to first and reverse) but this is a small price you pay for the want of a racing clutch. no complaints here at all

thanks to those who helped out with ideas!

cheers Simon

[MR 1JZ]

*checks watch*

yep...skid o clock

haha

[spiller]

revisit the old industrial flats

[MR 1JZ]

nah

thats what the cul de sac at johns shop is for lol

[spiller]

2 weeks time...shortly after the addition of an FCD and 17 pounds

DIE Nankang!

[98SZR]

Glad to see you got it sorted and was only adjustments