2JZ-GTE into MZ12

[brett_celicacoupe]

a couple questions coming to mind so far...


1. the AC compressors on the 1jz/2jz have 3 wires in the plug. one to excite the clutch electromagnet, the other 2 for some sort of sensor (pressure?).


2. the aristo auto is allegedly a a340le with the 3 prong fixed yoke thing. before i go to all the effort of undoing the bolt in the back to remove the yoke, is the spline the same as the other a340e slip yokes?

the car was factory fitted with a a340e (probably first car ever to receive it) so im crossing my fingers that the Z12 yoke will go straight in. there is no dust cover but im sure something could be sorted if it did fit.

3. i have no plans to change the dumps unless its going to clash with the steering shaft, should i pre-loosen the exhaust bolts before i go to drop the engine in? (norbie, joorsh?)


anyway thats it for now

cheers,

Brett

[CrUZida]

1) Ignore the other 2
2) nope
3) yes

[brett_celicacoupe]

re the tailshaft, im wondering if the spigot could be chopped off and a normal slip yoke inserted. pic below shows the aristo type shaft and mx83/JZA etc type slip yoke shaft.

only real concern is if there is enough overlap of the shaft and the slip yoke.

thoughts?



http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/1...aftchopmo0.jpg

[Norbie]

I would suggest moving that engine back, it's way too far forward. There's no point having the engine in a silly position just because it's a bit easier to bolt up the transmission. Note if you move it back to the correct location (ie engine nearly touching the firewall) you'll have a better chance of getting the shifter to fit.

As for the dump, removing the valve thingy will permanently disable the sequential system. I got a dual 2.5" dump fabricated to get past the steering shaft.

[brett_celicacoupe]

the shifter isnt a problem as it is staying auto. its only a matter of shortening/lengthening the selector rod.

i think it also looks like there is a lot of clearance as the soarer looks to have a more recessed firewall. but yeh, maybe a inch or 2 and it should be sitting where yours is.

cheers,

brett

[brett_celicacoupe]

ive removed the collector but left the valve housing section in there .



it looks like it possbile to leave the sequential system in tact and route a collector past the steering shaft.

here is a collector roughly held in place.

[sbyder]

I would suggest moving that engine back, it's way too far forward. There's no point having the engine in a silly position just because it's a bit easier to bolt up the transmission.

I agree. You'll have heaps more room on the front of the motor to put in a proper thermo fan set-up and room to change anything if the need arises.

[brett_celicacoupe]

after playing with the engine mounts more, the engine was pushed back 25mm so that the xmember rubber mount bolt was approximately in the centre of the 4 engine mount bosses on the block. they look very much like the bonneville items now.

the driver side mount is made at least stick welder FTW!

[CrUZida]

Move it back as far as you can.
Either the sump or the firewall will stop you.

[brett_celicacoupe]

yep

theres basically 8-10mm (one finger) clearance between the sump and the xmember now

however easily a hand space between the head and the firewall

might test fit the Z12 gearbox member tomorow. check the height and whether there is enough space in the xmember for the larger type mount this box has

[wilbo666]

Looking good,

As said move it way back

Also I'd be measuring the stock height of the output of the auto (from the body of the car to the center of the gbox output shaft, or equivalent)...that way you can make the mounts so that gearbox centerline is as per factory -> right driveshaft angles / make the gearbox mount so that the gbox is at the right height.

Cheers
Wilbo

[BMWTurbo]

Make sure you fit a 'restrictor' (2.25inch dia cone) in the exhaust also, else you won't be able to control the boost.

If you are retaining the Aristo 'spider' try and line the gearbox axially to where the nose of the diff is, else you might find you get harmonics in the driveline due to the fact the rubber donut is not really designed to work as a uni joint.

[o_man_ra23]

Subscribed, will have a look at the photos later. Brett, your a nut, see ya at the end of the month.

[brett_celicacoupe]

the other engine mount is half made so atleast some progress has been made tonight

Make sure you fit a 'restrictor' (2.25inch dia cone) in the exhaust also, else you won't be able to control the boost.

care to explain in more detail? consequences of more boost?

If you are retaining the Aristo 'spider' try and line the gearbox axially to where the nose of the diff is, else you might find you get harmonics in the driveline due to the fact the rubber donut is not really designed to work as a uni joint.

doesnt look like the donut is useable, its physically too big

[wilbo666]

care to explain in more detail? consequences of more boost?

You won't be able to control the boost, will overboost no matter what you do...

Cheers
Wilbo