air in your clutch lines? bleed it and see if it solves the problem.
OK I'm having a problem similar to Spillers but also a little different. Car drives A-OK but if I give the car a high boost squirt in second (only gear I tried so far) and then push the clutch pedal in to shift to third the pedal does not return. I then pull it up with my foot and it drives fine thereafter, so it only does it after a full power burst. Not sure what can cause this but I can hazard to say that both master and slave cylinders are fine, it doesnt feel like the clutch is slipping but maybe it did a little and then something is binding? Anyhow I guess either way the clutch has to come out for a look-see and at the same time may as well put my twin plate in but still would love to know what is causing this and if I'd be OK to just drive the car sedately for a little while longer
air in your clutch lines? bleed it and see if it solves the problem.
deepdishfactory
2T-G - Half the valves but twice the fun.
My clutch pedal did that too and I thought the master and slave were fine. Turns out that the master was leaking and the fluid was running down under the carpet (messy) but I didn't notice coz i had plastic floor mats. New seals and all is great.
Otherwise bleed the lines and check pipe/joins for leaks.
89 ST162, Extractors, Muffler, Suspension, Intake, white dials. More to come when I get money...
Originally Posted by Javal
...squeak like a rat in a microwave...
You either have a leak somwhere or theres a porblem with your pressure plate. Try bleeding the clutch making sure that you press the pedal to the floor while its been bleed and let the clutch push the fluid out itself.
Getting your missus to help bleed the brakes isn't everybody's idea of quality time.
It is possible that the truss bearing is binding somehow on its sleeve if theres some foreign matter in there.
See if you can pull of the fork rubber and look in there as is operates.
Getting your missus to help bleed the brakes isn't everybody's idea of quality time.
I think it could be this, but if so why does the pedal ONLY stick after a spirited squirt in second. ALso re the pressure plate you could be right, I googled my issue and found on a US F-Body forum they have the EXACT same problem after shifting at high rpm and it is a weak pressure plate and a new aftermarket clutch cures the problem, so yeah I reckon it could be that, I have had all the system checked for leaks and its not that, plus leaks would not be an intermitent problem of my natureOriginally Posted by maurice c
Turbo too close to the master and boiling the fluid on a good burst? My clutch can get a bit 'soft' after a burst.
Get your master and slave rebuilt, costs bugger all and will fix the problem. My slave was leaking and experiencing the same issues but was not obviously visible.
600 Club Member: Toymods Large Member
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RIP - Nathan Dean (TA-022)
When the pedal goes to the floor & wont come up, is the clutch engaged or disengaged, ie; does the car free rev .... if the car still drives normally with the clutch stuck down, Its not the clutch at fault, it will i suspect be the m/cyl internally leaking, you wont necessarily find any external leaks ...
Last edited by lexsmaz; 01-10-2007 at 07:11 PM.
I've had this exact problem before. It's very very strange and took a while to diagnose. It's harmonics basically pumping the fluid out of the clutch slave back into the master. Put a larger spring to hold on the fork and see if that solves your problem, it did for me.
It only took like one boost up in second to do it, so I am thinking it is more due to the RPM than anything? Which would be exactly what the guys had happen on the F-body forum in the states. Twin plate time. Apparently being a pull type clutch makes it more suceptible to this due to centripetal force acting on the pressure plate.
Either way I'm not feeling it, want to test my new sway bars damn it lol
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